New rides entry: 1995 Alfa Romeo 155 Q4 Sport "widebody"

[kunev]

I haven't wrote here from some time now, but as I have started it and wrote and show so many things I have to continue.

For the next upgrade I have waited a lot of time to be completed. The car was having some middle part of exhaust system build from 2.5"(63.5mm) stainless steel with sport cat I think, but was not complete job and old rear part have cracked and two back silencers have fallen on one drive, so I needed to take care on that. And a custom stainless steel exhaust system was arranged to be build by "JS-design" from my home town, which in my opinion is the best exhaust specialist in Bulgaria and not only. I have been many times in his workshop and have seen craftsmanship and beauty of his work. Here is a link to his fb page, where you can see his creations -> JS-design. During that period I have changed the plan twice from initial one at 63mm (2.5") or 70mm (2.75") with two silencers to reach the final implementation at 3" (76mm) from bend pipe just after the turbo to the end with one custom straight through muffler and double titanium exhaust tips at 3", to match the color of the car
49766505_2438143022866566_4976634294421159936_n.jpg
49948585_605576159865638_2736522912109428736_n.jpg

This exhaust system configuration was chosen to comply to the future plan for the car, which I have decided that want to start...

[kunev]

And from now on the project become really serious.

That is my approach on building 155 GTA Stradale nowadays and beginning of documenting it here . The project will be executed by ICI Design, a well known tuning specialist here for Delta Integrale and alike models sharing same engines, drivetrain and not only.
Starting with the hearth of the car - the engine and in particular the bottom end of it.
69699046_734222783698124_4568199208267415552_n.jpg

ZRP billet 4340 steel crankshaft for standard 90mm stroke
62227458_371387433485720_2568615933086007296_n.jpg
That is a lightweight design with all counterweights, balanced to 1gr/cm with report included and many good manufacturing features.

JE Pistons asymmetrical 9:1 CR pistons from 2618 T6 high tensile forged aluminum
52553594_2521811217833229_294870455720869888_n.jpg
As this have to be a modern build I decided to go with more up-to-date static compression ratio than standard one of 8:1. And expecting better fuel, power and thermal efficiency with it.

MaxSpeedingRods H-beam 4340 steel connecting rods
ARP2000 rod bolts (included with rods)
King Racing XP-series main bearings
King Racing XP-series connecting rod bearings
Custom engine girdle plate

69258713_2620403971305825_1402007870945361920_n.jpg 69873310_470343250414196_4128807050111090688_n.jpg 69661987_858302674563878_3585444269273382912_n.jpg

[Steve Webb]

Just noticed in the Exhaust pics, but does your car have a tow bar installed?

There used to be one on mine but its been removed for a long time now.

[kunev]

No, at least since it is in my possession, but probably there was such at some point in the past...

[kunev]

I haven't updated since long time, so here is such about head and engine closing.

Cylinder head have been serviced by head specialist with new bronze valve guides and 3-angle valve seats job. It have been ported by ICI Design
75481653_506426373286793_3100893845714370560_n.jpg 75640771_758176031277423_7656407361266909184_n.jpg

Valves have replaced with:
- Supertech black nitrided intake valves
- Supertech inconel exhaust valves
78165921_2466400023480287_7772788300540018688_n.jpg

- camshafts have been replaced with new intake and exhaust ones for Tipo 2.0 16V Sedicivalvole
- Athena racing MLS head gasket
- ARP M12 head studs
- adjustable cam wheels for fine tune of valve timing
- balance shafts have been removed
- 22mm width timing belt
83562882_591511378102999_3639648766593597440_n.jpg 83884408_1362808390579924_3112401166906949632_n.jpg

[kunev]

I haven't posted more information here recently, because of issue with forum, but as now is fixed I will continue.

So logically after engine came clutch and gearbox.

As the plan is for big increase of power and also general opinion is that gearbox is not so strong let say I start to think for options in advance.

And some time ago I bought Scara73 Gr.N gear kit consisting of 1-3 gears and main shaft
24022018558.jpg24022018561.jpg
These gears have wider tooth base than original, i.e. less number of teeth. Here is a comparison photos made by another guy, who have use that kit (nickname Stichl), which I have found. On picture below are showed original and Scara73 3rd gear wheels as original ones are on left.
3rdGear.jpg
Also needle bearing (if that is correct name in English) on 3rd gear is different as can be seen from below picture where original one is on the right.
3rdGear_flange.jpg
Main shaft is thicker and also splines. Original one is at bottom on below picture.
MainShaft.jpg

After some time I started thinking that will be better with 4rd and 5th gears also if possible and we contacted Scara73 again and they reply that it is possible to be "upgraded" that kit and there is options for 5th gear ratios only. And gears were ordered with 5th slightly taller and 4rd is approximately the same ratio no option there. At same time was ordered from them rigid 5-puck ceramic clutch disc with splines for thicker main shaft. And all gearbox's bearings was changed with new one to be as new.
73472605_526184198217816_6308722408480047104_n.jpg75132180_457977554835295_1286429622405169152_n.jpg

Gearbox casing also need to be reinforced. Originally there is one plate on one side of gearbox. Custom "spectacle plate" was made to prevent both shafts from splitting (below is not final state).
69719304_448608175862253_8318855867097153536_n.jpg

Final drive is kept original one.

[Steve Webb]

Looking good, can't wait to see pics as the project move along.

Hopefully the site will behave itself now and not fall over again anytime soon.

[kunev]

After gearbox power distribution continue with drivetrain.

Center differential was in perfect condition fortunately
67384331_345101786443239_4170749548945211392_n.jpg

While driving on Spa and Nürburgring the car exhibit a lot of understeer and after that I start to think for some options for improvement. The purchase of front and rear anti-roll bars came mainly from these drivings. I have seen that Quaife offer torsen front differential for these cars I bought such.
28102018625.jpg 23072018598.jpg 11082018602.jpg 11082018605.jpg
Original front differential is of open type. With that diff I expect improved handling, better transfer of power from front wheels to the road, strength and reliability as I have heard for cases of broken front diff on 4WD Italian cars of that type let say.
67453904_623407924813054_5948539183952822272_n.jpg 67685756_347004319565729_4334178208518766592_n.jpg

Original rear differential is used again, which is of torsen type and to it have been changed two new bearings. I also have new rear torsen differential unit and main case for it, which will stay in storage, but hope to not reach a point that need to use them.

Generally almost all bearings on drivetrain was changed I think.
67725381_347388329525836_2653515926015574016_n.jpg 68255665_472968963263790_5426680690185863168_n.jpg

[kunev]

Next will be the source of power - turbocharger and exhaust manifold on which is mounted.

As this is a modern build, then have to be used modern turbocharger. I haven't considered at all popular and easy to install options for upgrade from time when this and other models with same engine was more popular used cars let say like T3 or T34 variants from other cars like Cosworths for example or hybrids. The technology in general have moved on a lot in the last 10-15 years let say. Basically the choice came down to one turbocharger from two modern turbo series - Garrett G25-660 and Borg Warner EFR7163. Then G25 was newly released and there wasn't much real life info about them, but its data for given size look impressive. On the other side EFR7163 was available from some time and there is good reviews for its performance. After some research my choice fell on EFR7163 with T4 twin scroll 0.80A/R turbine housing with internal gate.
48324883_342597096526821_8160230999595155456_n.jpg 48123023_1109278612579911_7930119571137101824_n.jpg 48360527_359229478176169_8602900574280613888_n.jpg 47688723_1439479299519081_8496291518829559808_n.jpg 48277561_271846190167957_6350815235464495104_n.jpg

That is best responsive version of it and with internal gate and integrated compressor recirculated valve, plumbing will be simplified and close to "like original" look. Here is a official information about that series of turbos -> EFR Technical Data
BW_EFR_Features.jpg
And one good explanation video


For mounting of that turbo was made custom tubular twin scroll manifold with as close as possible equal length runners .
83404582_642249783248236_4286718295911956480_n.jpg 83582117_531995614331535_734423438927593472_n.jpg 84525144_174090197264849_3963842527412355072_n.jpg

Twin scroll turbine housing and exhaust manifold have many benefits in low and mid rpms and that approach is used on many modern turbocharged vehicles.

[kunev]

Borg Warner EFR series are rich on features from the box, but for that build some of them will be replaced with upgraded items.

For EFR turbos with internal gate Borg Warner offer three wastegate actuators depending on intended boost - low, medium and high. By default turbochargers came with canister for medium boost. From what I have read even high boost canister is struggling to keep high boost levels, which these turbochargers are capable of. As the plan is to be run a lot of boost, then upgrade on this part is highly desirable and fortunately aftermarket industry have already something to offer.
And have been bought Turbosmart IWG75 twin port wastegate actuator for that particular turbo
51716699_563532084149713_6357155672345280512_n.jpg
With twin port actuator, as the name suggest, air can be fed to both side of membrane and in that way can be achieved much higher boost level for same spring rate compared to single port. In that way can be run wider range of boost levels compared to single port. Also boost control is better and can be achieved faster boost response. And my goal is to be run at two widely spread boost level. This actuator is for 14psi base boost pressure with two springs inside I think, but that can be changed with different springs configuration.

Here will mention that I have a concept for tuning parts - generally they have to be ... black and/or silver/metal color.

That twin port wastegate actuator is perfectly matched with Turbosmart 4 port boost solenoid (on the left on below picture) for best boost control on internal gate turbo
51381265_632433827187289_9113903134480007168_n.jpg

As a result from above, two standard EFR's features are out directly from the box, but that is the best way and cannot be ordered without them.

To keep turbo happy also will be installed Turbosmart inline oil filter on supply line.
52548538_2521811387833212_6330455355314667520_n.jpg

[kunev]

With more power came more heat and for that some improvements on cooling of different fluids have been introduced.

Direnza performance aluminium radiator
61630534_401763357077968_3687308223380979712_n.jpg
That is a radiator for Fiat Coupe 20VT and they don't offer such for Q4, but they are very similar. It is 40mm thick and original one is around 25mm I think, but not sure. Look as a quality item, better than one Chinese for Q4, which can be seen on the net.

30 rows oil cooler
It is much bigger than original one and ... black 🙂. It is approximately two and a half times bigger that original one. It will be seen as installed in some of next posts. With such big difference in size its position on car needs to be compromised and will be at angle and not directly frontal, but such installation have been used and look to be working (it is not optimal for sure).

Energie Racing Parts bar&plate intercooler
64288562_528349024368115_4913100999285014528_n.jpg 64743015_444037612822238_7291894775345577984_n.jpg
On 155 with original bumper doesn't have much space for big front mount intercooler, which to be "hidden" behind it. Here basically the goal was to be found off the shelf item, which to be good compromise between its capacity, for sure shouldn’t be cut front bar and metal in general and as little as possible from the bumper. This intercooler is with core size of 650x235x90mm and from initial measurements and checks look to be good solution for what is desired.

Here also will mention about one type of cooling, which is a little different than above ones. As the car will be street, as the project name suggest , it will continue to have an air conditioner ... and this time it should work. I didn’t have the chance to see it working as when I bought the car the condenser was missing and there was some cut pipes going to it! So some work in that direction will be done also. It will make installation of intercooler and bigger coolant radiator even harder and will have impact on their efficiency and they to it also, but this is how it have to be done in my opinion.

[kunev]

Now some pictures from assembly work in the engine bay.

Front subframe have been cleaned and painted before installing it back.
75540092_2492534017461200_808972517724127232_n.jpg

Some pictures from work on exhaust manifold
78191096_494064568134515_803821249913421824_n.jpg 78581507_430226264313292_3802977581062422528_n.jpg

Some more pictures related to engine assembly and not only
83498760_231904004630720_3833880308843806720_n.jpg 84410283_840376026422555_2806209095789445120_n.jpg

Turbo installation and not only
86710515_254971225485885_5916587702467166208_n.jpg 86969645_185771182739761_7865578324485996544_n.jpg 87290891_493943557938463_1195520678170722304_n.jpg 88123329_193744291952246_8822636079011069952_n.jpg

Downpipe have been wrapped, but exhaust manifold will stay exposed.
Aeroflow big cone air filter with length of 230mm is located at lower left on front of car with short, straight route to it.
Intercooler piping are custom made stainless steel as can be seen from photos.

[kunev]

The big increase in power require such of fuel flow.

I decided to go to route with additional surge tank. Pump in the standard fuel tank will feed small surge tank, from which external fuel pump will draw. And as they say, one picture speak more than hundred words, so here is one simple diagram, which I get from internet.
picture_php_pictureid_98053_58effd79486cc06ca71ebad2a51cbe84096055f9.jpg
Thus it should be avoided possibility for fuel starvation and can be driven with low fuel level in main tank.

For main fuel pump after surge tank will be used external Aeroflow one, similar to Bosch 044 with spec of 300l/h at 3bar pressure.
52441748_2521812141166470_4874683547614445568_n.jpg

In-tank pump, which now will serve as a lift pump, was replaced with new Magneti Marelli one. It will now operate not on pressure unlike original configuration and will have higher flow than what is intended for.

Custom made surge tank and Aeroflow external pump are mounted at the back, below the car.
88357387_639025123330284_2221687325526589440_n.jpg

Original fuel rail with Kappa’s inlet manifold is plastic one, which is not very performance oriented and is used aluminium one from Fiat Coupe non-turbo engine, which have pressure regulator mounted at side of it. And for fuel pressure regulator is used standard Bosch 3bar one, so base fuel pressure will be increased from standard one for that car of 2.5bar and that will improve fuel atomisation.

For fuel injectors are used up-to-date performance aftermarket items - Fuel Injector Clinic 1000cc3/min high impedance ball&seat injectors
52727991_2521811934499824_4791795570769395712_n.jpg
They are dynamically flow matched by Fuel Injector Clinic and came with report for that and data for each particular injector in that set, which to be used for configuration in the ECU. That will benefit fuel tuning and general performance.

[kunev]

In this post I will write about the brain, which will monitor and control the engine and other related systems.

Original ECU is not bad at all and do its job very well. It use speed density strategy with MAP sensor, which have benefit performance wise from lack of restriction in the intake compared to need of MAF sensor for measurement of air mass. But as with any electronics there is progress of the technology. With any old ECU it is possible to start to happen some strange running issues related to it and more specifically to aging of capacitors. Some electrical inspection of it is not a bad thing generally. Some time ago I considered extending capabilities of original ECU by using of RP-Lab services. If that project was executed 10 years ago let say probably for sure that will be the route to go, but I decided to go with a more modern approach with more capabilities and have been chosen and bought Ecumaster EMU Black
51248372_522039254870896_5596677621770354688_n.jpg
This is their premium ECU and offer a lot of features for its value and look as a very high quality product. Ecumaster is a polish brand and their ECUs are intended for 4 and 6 cylinder engines. The engine will be controlled with sequential ignition and fuel injection. And that mean that factory waster-spark ignition with two coils and ignition cables will be replaced with the more modern and capable coil-on-plug setup . Also is planned to be added some additional sensors to the ECU for engine protection basically, which I'm not sure is it possible with just extension of standard ECU.
In the above picture can be seen also a bluetooth module for that model of ECU (Ecumaster CAN-BUS Bluetooth module), but that will not be used actually. Later I also decide to add an option for logging of data without a laptop connected to it, which on that ECU can done with additional Ecumaster EDL-1 module. That module also incorporate a bluetooth module and that will be used instead of initially purchased separate module.
75317310_640402569828057_5621147605233827840_n.jpg
As is probably clear, the purpose of using a bluetooth module is to be able to view real-time data on phone or tablet without the need to connect a laptop to the ECU. Ecumaster have their own application for presenting data only for Android devices - EMUDash. And there is another popular one, which support this and many other ECU -> RealDash.
My plan is to have close to zero additional gauges in the interior to keep it as clean as possible and basically that will be the concept to view data when desired without the need to connect a laptop to the ECU.

[kunev]

Some more information about additional sensors, which will be used with mentioned in previous post ECU and not only.

I have already mentioned about ignition and fuel injection concept, which will be used with that ECU. Another major aspect in engine control is about the feedback for burned fuel from oxygen sensor in exhaust gases. Originally is used so-called narrow-band oxygen sensor, which is very accurate just very close to stoichiometric air-fuel ratio i.e. λ=1, which is aimed at low load conditions like idle and light cruise. With new ECU will be used so called wide-band oxygen sensor instead, which is accurate in much wider A/F ratio range as its name suggest. And such sensor is an indispensable tool for engine tuning as you probably know. For that goal was purchased AEM X-Series Wideband UEGO AFR Sensor Controller Gauge (showed with some other pars in below picture )
50593680_372595203298826_4320518704983965696_n.jpg
The ECU have controller for wide-band sensor, but will be used AEM one in the gauge. My plan is the gauge to not be installed in visible place in the car, but it will be in the car and will provide AFR as analogue signal to ECU. The gauge will be used during engine tuning for quick reference.

Some additional sensors will be connected to ECU for engine protection. Again, no gauges for them in the cabin . Below are showed two Titan Motorsport stainless steel 10bar pressure sensors, which have been bought for such use.
71501445_537241917024958_3352571352937660416_n.jpg
One will be used for engine oil pressure. There is a sensor with such function already on the car, but it is only for viewing on the dash and it will remain. The new one is stainless steel (don't know from what material is original one) and much more accurate I guess.
Other will be used for fuel pressure in the rail to look for issues with fuel supply like issue with pump/s or fuel lines.

Another AEM 3.5bar stainless steel pressure sensor will be used for the pressure in cooling system. Cylinder pressure will be much higher than originally and with this sensor will be look for signs of issues with cylinder head sealing in earlier stage.

The next sensor added is for the speed of turbocharger
52842236_2540557602625257_7812342325111160832_o.jpg
The compressor cover of turbo is prepared and almost ready for installation of this Borg Warner turbo speed sensor on it (it can be seen installed on it on some of previous pictures). That series of turbos with titanium aluminide (or Gamma-TIi) turbine wheels are very sensitive to overspeeding. For that case and as the turbo will be pushed the turbo speed will go into ECU also. With using of this data and turbo pressure can be seen on compressor map (which are available for all EFR turbos) where exactly is operated and are we close to maximum possible airflow from turbo in particular setup. Also data from it can be very useful for finding boost leaks or how much harder the turbo start to work in much higher altitudes.
This sensor return frequency with 0-5V amplitude, which unfortunately cannot be used as input in that ECU. And for that was purchased additional converter - DCCDPro Turbo Speed Scaler
57262916_2027125584065342_1696056076652249088_n.jpg
This unit convert the frequency signal from turbo speed sensor to 0-5V analogue signal, which can easily be used as in input in ECU or another data logging system. It have matching connector for speed sensor and power supply it. So look like something specifically made for this task ... and now start bad things - we didn't see it working at all from the start. We contacted that Canadian company again, which "produce it" (DCCDPro) and from which have been bought, but after we showed them pictures from oscilloscope showing that there is signal from sensor, but nothing (0V) after their unit they sad that will not support us, because we have order it by another company for parts and it that way we are not first hand buyer for them! After that I gave that unit to a friend of mine, which was good with electronics and have worked in electronic service shop at some point of time. Inside he saw Chinese modules with deleted numbers and generally bad assembling with used a lot of silicone! He try to make it work as it should and I hope to succeed. But with this unpleasant experience, I highly not recommend that company DCCDPro !

[kunev]

I'm wanting to push close to the limit of that setup on pump fuel and the climate here is hot, which hinder this goal. So additional system will be added to "combat" with the hot air - water-methanol injection. In short, fine spray of water and/or methanol is injected in intake path during high loads. The process of transition from liquid to gas of that mix take a lot of heat and intake air become cooler, which help with suppression of detonations. On other hand, the methanol have higher octane rating than petrol and in that way the octane rating of air-fuel mixture is increased. That is a very simple explanation and there is more detail articles and videos on the net.

Generally, WMI kits offered are separate systems controlled by their own control unit using additional data like boost or fuel injectors duty cycle to achieve that. The goal here is WMI system to be very advanced and controlled by ECU as everything engine related. For that goal, the system will be complicated and will consist of a lot of parts.

The pump, hose, nozzles, holders and check valve are from Snow Performance
52596157_2521811651166519_7753648006418661376_n.jpg
Two nozzles will be used: 375ml/min at 40psi (size 5 in their nomenlature) and 225ml (size 4), which was ordered later. Generally different WMI manufacturers rate nozzles differently.
Red hose doesn't comply with my color concept and black one have been sourced .
74893758_1371617819657670_7113909488058368000_n.jpg

Injection will not be controlled only by start and stop of pump like is done on most of the kits, but will be used also a solenoid which will be PWM controlled by ECU. For that task have been bought ProMeth solenoid
55708878_598760740591847_2574297990135021568_n.jpg

As a tank is used washer fluid tank from some Lancia Lybra, which is located on left on it and here it will also be on the left in the place of air filter box. It also have low level sensor, which will be used in the fail-safe strategy. Such solution was intentionally searched as I want closer to original looking and no additional tank in the trunk for example, which is normal for such systems.

Most off the shelf kits have very basic fail safe feature or doesn't have any at all. For advanced fail-safe device is used AEM Water/Methanol Failsafe Gauge. Also have been bought their WMI filter.
56857673_635851980197469_8467434630000148480_n.jpg
It is a standalone system with flow gauge, which is also a control unit. Have its own interface from which it is configured. It can provide fail signal as an output to other system and it is used in the ECU. Failsafe is very important for WMI as if the tune is more aggressive and dependent on WMI and that system doesn't work as intended, then catastrophic result can happen.

Unfortunately, look like their flow sensor is not specifically designed to work with methanol content and have failed on other car after not so long use!

So to avoid such scenario (hopefully) have been bough Aquamist flow sensor, which is specially designed to work with methanol and also use different more linear principle to measure flow.
96406027_1539839729510828_6038055510811344896_n.jpg
It also need a dedicated cable provided also by Aquamist (on above picture are showed two sensors and cables for them). Both AEM and Aquamist flow sensors return frequency signal, but range and characteristic is different between them and hence flow gauge will not indicate as intended, but more important is catch of fail situation. After some testing on other car have been seen that the difference between actual flow and this showed on gauge is small.

As the gauge in AEM's WMI fail-safe is not only a simple gauge and have to be in the car, so it will be used also as a gauge. Generally this is not as per my gaugeless concept, but as it have to be in the car better to be normally visible. Also in addition to fluid flow it have indicators for low and high flow as per configuration from user interface.

[kunev]

Now will go a little side of power production and distribution.

Rear subframe was also cleaned and painted. At the same time old bushes on it was replaced with polyurethane ones from one local manufacturer of polyurethane bushes -> www.polyurethan.me.
82594243_2510750175909434_5887906301706502144_n.jpg

Bushes on front wishbones was also replaced with polyurethane ones from Strongflex. Their "sport" version.
75172432_466406850643679_6006145419925520384_n.jpg 76722770_455930878398344_5652563328204013568_n.jpg

Pedders Suspension anti-roll bars was installed.

Rear brakes have been upgraded with aluminium calipers from late '90 Italian cars, which have been showed here some time ago and bigger 280mm solid brake discs. Only below picture showing them after install I have
92891513_3417400111607664_4070437851852963840_o.jpg

Rear suspension with dampers from H&R coilovers for 155 2.5 V6 and old Eibach springs was very soft and wheels was rubbing, for which I have complained and searched solution in another thread. After seeing new Intrax rear springs (which are showed in one previous post) and old Eibach ones next to each other we decided to not try with installing them as they doesn't look to be stiffer and to be leaved new, unused. Actually the coil is thinner and shorter. New custom rear springs have been ordered from GAZ with rate of ~7.1kg/mm (400lbf/inch) and length as of Intax ones. Below is compared with old Eibach.
91398047_834022017105523_9009542249595273216_n.jpg 90720689_558855978057789_577516678603079680_n.jpg 90874960_522740841959127_1452692410638270464_n.jpg
It is much thicker and stiffer than Eibach spring. After installation there was unpleasant surprise and the car was around 4cm higher than before! After some springs modifications and fitment adjustment this was corrected and on above picture of the back of the car is how it is now.

For the front have been ordered camber plates from BC racing for Fiat Coupe. They offer complete coilover kits with camber plates and not just camber plates, but we have ask them and they agreed and the price was good.
95461504_238106867399333_5164221054113021952_n.jpg
The specific thing here is that H&R coilovers are made for standard top mounts and camber plates are for coilovers with camber plates, which are little different at top. So some fabrications have been done to be fit.
95495542_1165391673801403_1479192728221777920_n.jpg

[kunev]

For engine oil (after break-in period) is used AMSOIL DOMINATOR 15W-50
92848894_1211913289147004_775324777559621632_n.jpg
This is basically a racing oil with high wear protection, but the engine is not standard anymore also. Pistons for example are made from 2618 aluminium alloy, which is with low silicone content compared to other popular alloy for forged pistons 4032 and have greater linear expansion rate than 4032 and require more clearance. This oil is not intended for long-term use and need to be changed more frequently, which is not a surprise for a racing product.

For transmission oil is used Castrol 75W140.

For brake fluid is used Castrol SRF
90421660_3359571820723827_193381280459522048_o.jpg
This is high performance brake fluid with very high dry and wet boiling point. As brake fluid is hygroscopic high wet boiling point become more important with use, but generally it have to be changed on 2-3 years (not speaking for race use).

With much bigger power will become harder it to be put to the ground. To help with that were purchased Zestino Gredge 07RS 215/40-R17 semi-slick tyres in their soft version
82156884_476494456382798_1440602962463293440_n.jpg
Yes, that is new and and not big and popular brand, but have good reviews for them here, especially for its price. Also no much options for that size, which is the same as before. The treadwear is softest available for this model of 140.

[kunev]

We are getting closer to the end of performance project.

Here is some pictures of completely assembled, highly modified engine bay.
90521687_834635283685215_6606991476117209088_n.jpg 90828804_800862920324859_9089556790240083968_n.jpg

Unexpectedly, A/F ratio wideband sensor from AEM kit give up after engine break-in period and some tuning, so new Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor have been bought. Maybe some defect with it, I don't know, but hope new one to be much more durable. It will be connected to AEM gauge, which is also controller, as previous one (which was also Bosch LSU 4.9). AEM have deleted numbers on sensor, so we cannot be absolutely sure that new one is with exactly the same product number, but functional wise I don't think that there will be any difference.
100105413_244912186744334_2712468642825502720_n.jpg

Turbosmart IWG75 dual port wastegate actuator was with springs for 14psi and with it lowest boost level is 0.7bar. That actuator can have up to three size springs installed at same time (inner, medium and outer and for each size is offered two options for spring rate). During mapping on high boost on 4rd was seen unstable boost and to cure that have been bought two new springs.
104485324_549195739296116_1588318006438359504_n.jpg
With using of one of available springs that combination is rated for 23psi (maximum possible is 26psi). This move is not as per initial plan for very widely spread boost settings, but still there will be good range between them. Generally, asking for a lot of boost from internal wastegate require very stiff spring/s and they may have some benefit on spool.

At the end of this post one current picture of engine bay after some mapping sessions have been done ... and removed red stickers, which are not as per my color concept
101960072_703932657036143_9007102321624088576_n.jpg

[Steve Webb]

Looking awesome, and glad to see it all coming together.

Couple of questions, did you need to move the power steering reservoir when you fitted the Kappa\Integrale plenum, I notice it is in a different location.

And what coil on plugs are you using, and what are you using to drive them? Not the standard ignitors I presume?

[kunev]

Many things behind intake manifold have been repositioned as can be seen from the photos. I guess that power steering tank needed some reposition and reason to be moved there is not only installing of that intake manifold.
Ignition coils are for some VAGs and are so called "smart coils" and have igniter inside them. They are directly controlled by ECU and new wires have been routed for them.

With new configuration of springs inside wastegate actuator base boost is 1.2bar and I think that is a good value for low boost setting

We didn't succeed to fix turbo speed scaler box from DCCDPro. We order same Chinese converter module for frequency to voltage, which is used inside it and it also doesn't work. I advice to not be ordered for sure!

Fortunately I have came across advert for new turbo speed scaler from Road Rage Gauges in eBay and it was bought.
s-l1600.jpg s-l1600 (1).jpg 108316245_281255009627725_5835230361615690518_n.jpg
Initially when I searched for options for scaler box this was other option, which I found to be available in Australia, but we decided for that from Canada, don't remember why now. This is not available anymore there and I cannot find it from other place. Company's site doesn't exist anymore also. Initially Borg Warner worked with Road Rage Gauges for implementing of such box and some gauge/s and this is mentioned in some their documents for EFR turbos. If I haven't found this option I will buy official turbo speed gauge from Borg Warner TSG-1, which also can output analogue signal. It is very expensive and generally I try to avoid additional gauges inside cabin.
Yes, some will say such converter box can be made, but I look for readily available solution, which should be tested and working.

And I'm happy to announce that this box is working .

[Steve Webb]

Thanks for that, I did look into the COP solution previously, but never went forward with them, nice to know that they just need a signal from the ECU to trigger, means the existing ignitors and coils can both go.

Can you remember what length COP's you went with?

[kunev]

The ECU should have four ignition outputs to drive them individually.

I don't know the size, but can tell you that if you look for "perfect" fit and visual appearance, then this model is not for you. Work on the car is done 300+ km from me and almost all picture on this 2nd page are not made by me, except on some parts and I haven't seen them on my engine, but have seen them on other engines and they stick out a lot. They are for some TFSI and are preferred by tuner, because of their ignition power ... and for me is also important to be black. Here is a site on which there is dimensions for some coils -> link (look for "Files" tab in their description).

[Steve Webb]

Cheers for the link, I know I'm never going to get a perfect fit, just so long as they can be made to fit, that's good enough for me.

Getting a COP solution will help clean up under the hood a little.

[kunev]

Now the car have working air conditioner after restoring the system which have missing condenser, cut pipes to it and one leak have been found and fixed after testing the system. Will see how will work in the future. For sure a very good feature for a street car especially in hot climate areas and also that is how the car was build initially.

Now to the final touches, which are related to the interior. They can be divided to two groups - for monitoring and for control.
I have to admit that my initial plan for close to zero additional gauges didn't happen, but installed ones needs to be in the car, because they are also control units and as they needs to be in the car then better to be visible in my opinion.
110210447_587635178446182_3449624237103994046_n.jpg
On left is water-methanol injection failsafe, which show flow and have error indicators for low and high flow conditions. And on right is wide-band AFR. Initially I consider mounting on top of dash, but finally decided to be on steering column. Mounting in air vents or cutting/drilling of dash has never been an option. Custom mounting brackets have been fabricated for this install. For monitoring of other parameters will be used EMUDash app connected to Ecumaster logger on bluetooth. It is available only for Android (at the moment) and I have to bough a tablet probably for that purpose.
For control I planned a control panel with switches. I like toggle switches more than rocker switches, so that is how was implemented.
114453403_284385676326009_1183381438984174438_n.jpg
The panel is really simple and minimalistic and consist of just two switches, but they are really significant ones. As can be guess from like temporary naming below them on left is switch for enabling/disabling of water-methanol injection system and on right is for low/high boost. Low boost setting is 1.2bar on wastegate spring without boost control and high boost setting depend on WMI - without WMI it is 1.6bar and with WMI is 2.0-2.1bar (depend on temperature as upper one is for colder weather). There is space for more switches and leds on that panel, but for the moment we don't see something else to be needed.

The ECU support a lot of sport features like anti-lag, launch control, but none have been implemented as they put more stress on components and are not needed on a street car.