I'm sure someone on here had the modules that included the one for the Q4. Can't remember who it was though. Sorry.
I'm sure someone on here had the modules that included the one for the Q4. Can't remember who it was though. Sorry.
1994 Alfa Romeo 155 Q4: Dozeing in the garage.
2009 Audi A4 tdi: Everyday drive.1994 Alfa Romeo 155 , 1995cc Std Standard Black
what type is your ECU
for IAW P8 with CO trim is module MM19-A
without CO trim is module MM23-A
What cams are you use
and what cam pulleys
similar problem haves cars when there is no synchronization between crank and timing sensor
Last edited by hf hpe; 02-10-12 at 19:58.
1994 Alfa Romeo 155 Q4: Dozeing in the garage.
2009 Audi A4 tdi: Everyday drive.1994 Alfa Romeo 155 , 1995cc Std Standard Black
1NRO is looking in to it, i read on the forum of Guy Croft
In a world full of compromise...
...some don't.
___________________________
Opel Astra Sports Tourer 110HP 2017
Alfa 147 1.6 16V 120HP
Alfa 155 Q4 2.0 16V turbo
perhaps the PMH sensor ?
I managed to connect using the M6-B module and tricking the tester to think it is connecting to a 8V KAT ECU.
On the 8V KAT ECU I don't get any errors but when I connect the OE ECU and hit the 2800rev mark it reports an ignition errror.
Suposse to be the trigger sensor or the phase sensor... Both have the resistance well in the specified tolerances (checked again today) and I have no idea what could be wrong with this two sensors if they seem to be working with other ECU's...
Your car is working with dedra/delta 8V 4WD calculators (WH47.08/8PI.**) but not with delta 8V HF/Int (WH4E.03/0A0_F6).
Several websites indicates that some Lancia Delta 2.0 16V used the WH4E.03/0A0_F6 (? strange)
Have you got this running correctly yet? Must be frustrating having the car all sorted apart from the ECU.
1994 Alfa Romeo 155 Q4: Dozeing in the garage.
2009 Audi A4 tdi: Everyday drive.1994 Alfa Romeo 155 , 1995cc Std Standard Black
Its a old topic but i might post anyway. Seems to what i read that the topic starter has a wrong map sensor fitted. He never checked fuiling in everything thats checked.
Wrong map sensor can cause the car to overfuil or put the ignition in overboost cut-out. Seen this happen with a ford. Costed me a week to figure out.
Map went all the way up to 5 v at the slightest boost. Causing the ignition to cut becouse the map was outside the safe limits (voltage output) there was a 1.4 bar map fitted while it should have been a 2 bar (absolute presure)
Map sensor sounds like a good call. Especially if the wrong one gave an overly high reading to the ECU even when off boost.
I don't suppose anyone has a graph of Pressure vs voltage for the various Map sensors?
1994 Alfa Romeo 155 Q4: Dozeing in the garage.
2009 Audi A4 tdi: Everyday drive.1994 Alfa Romeo 155 , 1995cc Std Standard Black
give me the numbers and ill get the reference sheets.
If no sheet then ill have to drive to a local scrapyard and get a couple mapsensors and map them out.
usually its lineair where 5 volt is max of the sensor. its about the amount of hpa. since the car is running on the dedra ecu i can safely say thats its the wrongor malfunctioning map. Dedra has lower boost setting and a different map sensor then the delta. thats why its responding better to the dedra ecu.
sounds like there is a N.A. engine map in a turbo car. because there is a 1 bar version, 2 bar version, 2,5 bar version and a 3 bar version. Either its the wrong one or the sensor is miss wired or dead.
Tamael
P.S. datasheets of the map sensors used in fiat and lancia. there is one missing but will check later in the week.
http://www.cosworth.hu/content/haszn...2_03-05_01.pdf
http://rpm.planetaclix.pt/ecu/PRT-MAPsensors.pdf
I didn't manage to fix the problem yet!
But I have tired replacing the MAP sensor and it didn't help with the problem.
And I have the right APS 02/03 MAP sensor (2.0 bar) for this engine. Remember that the 8V only has a single MAP sensor.
I think the problem is with the crank sensor. The trigger wheel has a bit of a wobble and I suspect that might be the root of the problem.
a strobe will show you that since ignition timing is done from the crank sensor. engine wont run without crank sensor but will without phase sensor.
use a strobe and scope to check the timing and signal.
but since its running on one ecu i really suspect a dodgy wire/sensor in the map circuit. the output with airline disconected should be 2.2 volts if the sensor is a 2 bar. conected line and idle engine is like 0,7 to 0,8 volts.
Oh one we could be missing, Charged air temperature and water sensor. are these checked and swapped? Could be as easy as those.
Tamael
I already tried changing:
-MAP
-crank sensor
-trigger wheel
-phase sensor
-water temperature sensor
-air temperature sensor
-engine harness
-ECU
-idle control valve
And I have measured the resistance of each sensor from the ECU connector to ensure that the wiring is OK.
I will check the MAP outputs.
I forgot to add that I also tried changing:
-TPS
-ignition module
-ignition coil
And scope the outputs of the sensors and at the ecu. Could respond very differently in an dynamic situation eg running engine.
I think that the thing we are missing is either a damaged or crossed wire or a sensor that is not doing as you expect.
Tamael
ECU ISSUE FIXED YESTERDAY!!!
As it turned out a forum member Nik was right in pointing me at the direction of trigger wheel to sensor gap.
I measured mine and found gaps:
#1 - 1,1mm
#2 - 1,6mm
#3 - 1,1mm
#4 - 0,6mm
So the maximum allowed gap difference between adjacent teeth is 0,2mm and mine was 0,5mm! As this is not a small difference I decided to follow trough and try to exorcise the demons. I used a file to shorten the 3 teeth that had the gaps narrower. Installed back the trigger wheel, measured again, and a bit more filing later the gaps were all at 1,6mm +/- 0,05mm. Then I narrowed the gap to 0,9mm.
After a re-installing the auxiliary belt etc. I swapped the ECU to the OE one and fired her up. Everything started normally and the moody lady seemed happy to rev above the magic 2000 rpm mark where that illusive barrier lay beforehand. I reassembled the rest of the car, installed back the GC recommended spark plugs and went for a test drive. It looks like the problem is fixed! I got the car up to 5000 rpm with no problems. But as it was already dark the local roads became a popular meeting ground for deer, rabbits and other suicidal animals so I decided to stop with experiments for the day.
Thanks to everyone that helped with their advice! It remains a mystery why this gap would cause one ECU to fail and the other have no problem with it.
I still have a slight wobble in the pulley:
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhCsWM2pzJM"]Pully - YouTube[/ame]
Not really sure what to do with it but I might just have to let it be...
I will now raise the boost pressure to the 1 bar that it is suppose to be. I am currently still running it a 0,5 bar.
I am thinking of installing a WB lambda. Any recommendations for a tight budget?
Hi, sorry for gravediggering. But i meet exactly this problem today. Thanks for this thread.
Gaps was 0.8/1.15/0.8/0.6 , wobbling pulley, cat ecu runs no problem, older non cat cutting out around 2-2,5k.
I never tested it at WOT yet.
From which manual is the posted printscreen? Critical information.
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