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  1. #1
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    Default Clutch Master Cylinder

    Hello,

    Has anyone replaced the clutch master cylinder before? If so, what is the job like?

    On occasions, on first use of the day the peddle can stick down but is fine when pulled back up.

    If I look at the footwell on the inside I can see a little bit of fluid seeping out so the seals must be worn.

    Thanks
    Jack

  2. #2
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    No one?

  3. #3
    Brul(tm) Guest

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    Had mine replaced, but didn't do it myself.
    So can't help you.

    Greetings,
    Marc

  4. #4
    serge Guest

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    i replaced mine too, but at that time the engine was out.

  5. #5
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    Lol, no worries, I will investigate and maybe open the workshop manual!

  6. #6
    K.Kotkas Guest

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    shiish.. it takes 2 bolts and removal of the battery and the battery holder. Getting the air out later is the tric :p

    no worry, about 1h job.

  7. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by K.Kotkas
    shiish.. it takes 2 bolts and removal of the battery and the battery holder. Getting the air out later is the tric :p

    no worry, about 1h job.
    I think you may mean the slave cylinder on top of the gearbox? thats the easy one Master cylinder looks harder in the driver footwell

  8. #8
    markgq4 Guest

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    i was thinking i had never seen a seperate master cylinder for the clutch, but you`ve just explained why

    is there nothing in the manual?
    good luck with it.

  9. #9
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    I did have a look through the manual but I could not find anything about it, I will have another closer look though....

  10. #10
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    Default

    So, has anybody done this in the meantime? Any tips & tricks?
    It all seems pretty easy until you get to disconnecting the oil inlet/outlet in the engine bay...

  11. #11
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    Yes, its not actually too difficult. The bit inside the car is ok, but I managed to not squeeze the pipe from the reservoir well and got a lot of fluid in the car...it is probably rusting a big whole in the chassis now!!

  12. #12
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    There, it's out.
    Here are some tips in case somebody needs them;

    - drain the braking oil from the reservoar so it dosen't flow out inside of the car and then rusts a hole in the chassis
    - you can try to pull the cylinder out just enough to unscrew the metal hose which goes to the slave cylinder (after you have unscrewed the two bolts on the inside), or to minimize the chance of oil leaking on to the floor, you can...
    - remove the front left wheel, full lock to the right, and you can just about manage to unscrew it. When you get it going, it is possible to finish it of with just your hands, but from above.

    Hope this helps.

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