New rides entry: 1995 Alfa Romeo 155 Q4 Sport "widebody"

[kunev]

And finally the car came to me after almost 2 years and 11 months being at two places, where have been worked on it - JS Design for exhaust and ICI Design for basically almost everything. During this period I haven’t driven the car or heard it’s voice. And now with so much modifications and at such much higher performance level it is like owning a new car with which I have to get used to. And now some photos, this time from me 🙂
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[kunev]

Some corrections and changes have been made to the car after I have done some kilometres with it and collected some impressions of my basically new car, so will call this Rev.2 . The biggest and most important of all is on suspension and especially at the front side. It was very crashy and unforgiving at the front on our for sure not perfect roads and was really unpleasant to drive if the road is not good. I don't expect a comfort like a normal car, but that was too much.
So I decided to try something different and was ordered front BC Racing BR coilovers for Fiat Coupe turbo with standard spring rates of 6kg/mm
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These have also benefit of adjustable damping in 30 positions by knobs at the top, so some tuning is possible at any time.

An opportunity occur to buy slightly used rear dampers from same BR kit for Fiat Coupe turbo and get them
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They are also adjustable in 30 positions as the front ones and will be better match for custom stiff GAZ springs as H&R dampers was really soft and they are produced for different model in the first place (155 V6)

Right now they are set at 5 clicks from hardest setting and now the car feel better for sure, it is stiff, but not so crashy at front so I can say that I'm happy with this move .

Other things, which have been touched are not so big, but still add to the total effect of better car

And as a final touch, changing of toggle switches with bigger and stronger ones
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The car now is a very serious machine and a blast to drive. The acceleration is like a rocket to me and you feel and hear everything unlike new cars, which adds to the drama. That tyre size 215/40-R17 is practically the maximum 17" for this car in my opinion and even with soft semi-slicks traction is not always there, so have to be careful.

[kunev]

A little more info about small things in "Rev.2", which I just mentioned in previous post:
- front bonnet struts was replaced with new Magneti Mareli items, which I sourced as older ones weren't doing their job anymore;
- adjustments to ECU tune for light load areas;
- adjustment to idle control valve. Also a new not-original valve have been bought, but appear that no issue with original one and it is better build also, so is not installed.
- changing of mounting of rear muffler with using of rubber exhaust mount used on other 155s on not only with 4 holes as previously left exhaust tip was touching and melting rear bumper;
- original compressor recirculating valve (CRV) on EFR turbo was replaced with replacement Turbosmart recirculating valve for these turbos and not only. It was replaced as a precaution, because it fails on another car with same turbo. It is louder than original one.
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Recently I have rearranged some auto parts and bring out one of them for a comparison picture only, don't plan to install them for now
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[Varypodaros]

Hello, congratulations for your great project. May I ask you something? Why didn't you make it drive by wire? It deletes the idle valve and any malfunction of it.

[kunev]

Thank you

The ECU support drive-by-wire throttle control, but honestly haven't think much about it and considered it. Using the original throttle body and idle control valve was just straightforward approach, without modifications. But you have a good point here and I may consider it in the future. It have some benefits regarding engine control and protection especially in my opinion. For reliability and safety I have some doubts, but it is the standard in new cars now, so it should be reliable enough, but also they have spend a lot of time setting it up and testing to be like that I guess. The trickiest part of implementing such system will be with throttle pedal I guess. Setting it up in a good way will take some effort also I guess.

[Varypodaros]

I really want to buy a standalone ECU in the future. I 've made some research about it and throttle petal isn't that difficult. You don't have even to change the petal! You can use a device that is found in some Acura Accord in USA or Peugeot 306 Hdi in Europe, that is a sensor that changes the cable throttle to dbw signal. Have a look:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FITS-PEUG...-/274201105473

So, you fit the engine end of the throttle cable on it, and a reliable e-throttle on your plenum. Check the list of throttles that are in the ecumaster wizard and it's an easy way to go.

[kunev]

In my opinion, is better to be kept original ECU, if the car is not seriously modified or a racing car.

There is different type of sensors and implementation in vehicles of course. I wouldn't go with replacement, not original part for such system and also would like to be as close to original implementation and fitment as possible. On the pictures, which I see, sensors are like integrated part with throttle pedal. Look like the sensor, which you showed is some older, 'hybrid' implementation.

[Varypodaros]

Original ECUs are old and they get faulty. I think that in 2021 standalone ECUs are cheap and more reliable. They get tuned easily and have much more possibilities. Not that easy to get it working, but if you make it, it will be great.
Of course you know it, as you already have the emu black fitted.

[kunev]

Yes, the point for now aged original electronic is good and as years past will become more apparent. If using original ECU and some strange behaviors start to occur maybe is not a bad idea to be checked by specialist and likely to be changed some capacitors as they age, but have to be good one, as otherwise may be forced to buy another ECU. Yes, the progress in factory and aftermarket ECUs is very big in recent years.


The new season for this car has not started yet, but there is something big prepared for it already.
The idea for it appear in my mind for first time even before the car start to move with current setup I think. And during "Black Friday" people normally buy other type of goods, but that is for normal people

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Borg Warner EFR7670 T4 Twin Scroll 0.92A/R with internal wastegate

The difference in maximum compressor flow capacity as per map is not so big between this and EFR7163, but size wise and in advertised power rating by BW is significant. It is bigger than current EFR7163 T4 TS IWG in basically every aspect - compressor wheel, turbine wheel, turbine housing and A/R, center housing, length. It is part of bigger frame range B2 and 7163 is from smaller B1. As per wheels size and flow it is similar to Garrett GTX3576R. Currently the car is very fast and have good response for its power and practically on the road is not needed more and bigger turbo with corresponding shifting of power to the right. But when you go to power route generally always is strived for more and I'm also interested to try and see how will be with bigger turbo. From comparing drawings of both and what I can see in engine bay currently I expect this change to be quick with just some changes to the intake. Relative position of flanges on turbine side is the same from what I see and read so expect direct fit on exhaust manifold and downpipe. Also my plan is if I really don't like the car with it to be able to quick and easy return to current turbo, i.e. something don't fit new one and cannot be easily prepared/sourced to be made new for it and old to be kept. I expect lower backpressure and higher power at same boost levels, which is normal going to bigger turbo. And lower backpressure should be better for durability as less heat and pressure at 'exit' of engine.

[Varypodaros]

This is huge. 👍
Do you have any video of the car with efr7163?

[kunev]

EFR turbos are generally big in size. They are much longer than others especially with internal wastegate. Their center section is longer than others, because of wider spread bearings and more complex sealing system.

I don't have a video, but here is one from car's builder and tuner -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILMDer4Oa-g

[kunev]

Recently I bought something very rare for Alfa Romeo 155, which complements other rare part, which I acquired some time ago and both have their story and influence in motorsport and in particular in BTCC.
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Silverstone/Formula rear spoiler lift kit

I bought this as old, little used, original kit and look to be such to me. I know that there is stainless steel replicas of it or even something similar, without even having original parts or dimensions, can be build locally, but for me is important to be original thing. It doesn’t look so nice and as factory on a car from pictures in my opinion and I don’t plan to use it for now, but I’m glad that now I’m having full original Silverstone/Formula kit consisting of front splitter, rear spoiler and lift kit, a part of the history of the model 🙂.
Here is a picture of a BTCC racing car with them
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And two articles about story of these spoilers:
https://medium.com/roadster-life/ben...s-43d7972ec413
https://www.google.com/amp/s/1990sbt...o-victory/amp/

The plan for power upgrade with bigger EFR7670 turbo is postponed for now. After long waiting of car’s tuner and mechanic to came my turn during winter, spring and after that and car continuing its winter hibernation in the garage, I just give up and decided to start the season and drive and enjoy the car. Engine oil was changed with same racing oil as before - Amsoil Dominator 15W-50. Here is some pictures from this summer.
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[Varypodaros]

Any update?

[kunev]

Nothing special. Now the car is at winter hibernation mode.
There is an issue with popping-off of one intercooler pipe. Must be done some modification to pipe/s to hold better clamp/s. Intercooler pipes are fabricated from stainless steel on which have been done 3-4 point hits from inside to help with support of clamps, if you understand me. Clamps are T-bolt heavily tighten. On stainless steel pipes is not so easy to be made full bead roll as on aluminum ones.
Some modifications will be done to ECU. Vehicle speed and gear are not setup in ECU and I want to see them in the log . Also, look to me that there is a difference in AFR between steady driving in warm and hot weather, which must be addressed. Currently is used onboard 4bar MAP of ECU, but will be switched to separate MAP sensor just as precaution if it fail and to be easier for replacement (car's tuner sad that recently it failed on other car, which he have worked with same ECU). Probably will be used again 4bar sensor originally used on some VAG . Air-conditioner must check as no cold air from it. Maybe something else small also, we will see.

I have stalling and not starting issue with my other car from long time now and decided to not continue tries and errors of service shop to fix it and instead to be started a performance project with same tuner as on 155. Don't want to "pollute" this thread with details about other car.
So other car is main focus for this year and now don't think for other serious modification and more power for 155. I don't have other car than listed in my signature. And 155 is pretty fast at current state, static CR is 9:1 and even a little bit more and with WMI and high boost setting it is set at 2.1bar and estimated at around 550-560hp at engine (not in hot day, haven't been at actual dyno, just PerfExpert app and tuner's opinion). At lower settings it is also fast, so can honestly say that it is sufficiently powered especially for public roads, just greed for power arise from time to time .
And now for both cars I'm waiting same tuner for my turn to come and he work very very slowly.

[kunev]

I haven’t wrote here from beginning of the year and now the season for it is over, so this will be like a summary for this year 🙂.
Some modifications to intercooler pipes have been done and no more blow pipes from then.
For MAP we switched from ECU’s onboard sensor to external one. Chosen by tuner was 4bar MAP sensor used on many VAG diesels - BOSCH 0 281 006 059. This sensor is called also TMAP, because it also measure temperature, but this is not used in our case.
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It is readily available and relatively cheap, which is very good and desired thing, but have a drawback for my case. Its upper range of 400kPa is more than enough, but pressure in intake reach values lower than its lower limit of 50kPa. These are short periods of very low loads as on engine braking, but still bother me. All analogue inputs have been used even before this change, so one of other sensors must be disconnected to make space unfortunately. Coolant pressure was selected for this unpleasant task.
Some work have been done on air-conditioner, which worked for maybe 2 or 3 months after the system was returned to complete and working state (removed condenser and cut pipes to it before me) during big work on the car. A leakage was found and seal was replaced. Also is used additive for stopping of leaks and it is working for now, more than 5 months from then. Will see how will be in the future, but can say, that this is a big win for me. Working air-con is not an easy request for an old car in my opinion. I will be fully satisfied if it remain working for the whole season after refilling in the spring.
Tuner suspect air leak from idle control valve housing and it was replaced including the valve with used ones from Fiat Coupe 16V, housing of which is aluminium.
Leaks from fittings to WMI solenoid have been noticed and they have been replaced. Also, check valve have been removed as there is already solenoid, which block flow and just to avoid case of blockage of it.
Some work on ECU side was done - setup of gear and speed channels, which I wanted to see in the log. Low load areas have been tweaked. Modifications to corrections with working air-con. Up to 5% fuel removing have been configured for correction in closed loop from wideband AFR sensor. Originally fuel is only added up to 10%.
During last trip with the car AFR controller start to show only “SEnS” error, which normally mean disconnected sensor, but connections to sensor and gauge look normal, so probably the sensor have failed. I have also read for gauge failure with such error. Will see next year.
I bought one more set of yellow fog lights.
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And as a final of this post a video of the car, which I made with Insta360 ONE RS and additional equipment, which I bought this year. This is my first video with it, so initial testing basically.

[Varypodaros]

👍👍👍

[kunev]

It is winter now, but active season is not so far ahead so look right time to share something about my plans for this year and what have been prepared for it 🙂.
As I said in previous post, I’m not so happy with range of used external MAP sensor, especially its lower limit - 50kPa. I see in the logs periods right at 50kPa, where it is actually below it and correspondingly AFR is richer than desired. Some additional functionalities of ECU was implemented to combat this last year, but it is not optimal solution for sure and cannot replace receiving correct MAP signal in these low load areas. So, I want to try another MAP sensor with more pleasant range for my car. The goal is also to be OEM and readily available, which will be good if needing replacement in the future. After some research, I think that found one, which look, that probably will have desired range for my car and order it. After that I order correct corresponding plug for it.
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From what I see this sensor is used on A45 AMG with 360 and 381hp and other Mercedes and generally this type of MAP sensors are used on many Mercedes. I cannot find clear specification of it, but in details and numbers I see BOSCH (DS-S3 20 - 350kPa), from which I assume and expect it to be with range 20-350kPa, which is what I’m looking for. Also, I read that these A45 AMGs run 1.8bar max from factory so wouldn’t be surprising if they use such range MAP.
Specific pins for connecting plug are needed and I found TPMS plug kit, which look to use same type of plugs and at a good price.
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After receiving it I found that plugs from above kit are lower quality and not absolutely the same as the one, which I bought earlier. Locking flap/door on plugs from kit look to be a little bit more inside and cannot click/lock on sensor and I try to show it with below comparison.
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I cannot say for sure, that plugs from this kit will fit the same way in its original TPMS purpose, but other plug look better quality to me and I cannot see how result will be different. All have really snug fit on MAP sensor.
So, from VAG sourced parts to Mercedes sourced ones, I think is a good move 😀. This is the most complicated 3pin automotive plug, which I have seen until now I think 🙄.

This post become longer than expected, so will continue in new one 🙂

[kunev]

This is continuation of the previous post for my plans for ‘23.

Something else, which I’m not so happy about is that currently there is one sensor installed on the car, which is not used - coolant pressure sensor. When the car was ready after big tuning transformation already all available analogue inputs of ECU was used. Then we switched to external MAP sensor instead of onboard one as a precaution of potential failure of it seen on other units and also to ease replacement in the future in case of failure. For that change to happen, some of other analogue sensors occupying input in ECU must be removed and that was coolant pressure sensor. And this is current state of analogue inputs:

- ECU’s onboard MAP - not used ( it can also be used as a barometric (BARO) )
- coolant temperature (CLT)
- throttle position (TPS)
And 6 auxiliary analogue inputs 0-5V:
- AFR - from AEM X-series wideband controller
- MAP
- oil pressure
- fuel pressure
- turbocharger speed/rpm - through Road Rage Gages turbo speed scaler
- water-methanol injection (WMI) flow - from AEM WMI Failsafe

In addition to MAP, there is another signal from above list, which can be used in EMU Black, without having to spend auxiliary analogue input - AFR. EMU Black have controller for Bosch LSU 4.9. Wideband sensors are complex and require control (of “oxygen pump”, by which must be achieved stoichiometric AFR in a Nernst cell…) which must be really good to achieve correct and fast reading in different situations. Some time ago there was complains about accuracy of data from EMU Black controller and because of that we use standard and proven approach with AEM controller, which is gauge and controller in one unit and can provide 0-5V analogue output of AFR to analogue input of ECU. Later Ecumaster made some improvements to their wideband controller and claimed very good accuracy, but at the moment I don’t plan to try that and in this way to free one analogue input, so other way must be found …

After some research I found, that Ecumaster offer one device, which look that can do what I want -> CAN switch board V3
This is a little board originally designed to provide information and control on racing wheels. To it can be connected 8 analogue and 8 switch state inputs and also have 4 low side outputs. It natively communicate with EMU Black through CAN and signals from it are integrated in Black’s software. It can also be connected with devices of other brands through CAN, but in these cases CAN communication must be defined between them as will be the case with That Racing Channel’s Skyline GT-R -> YouTube link.

As this is “just” a circuit board, then placing it somewhere in the car with some wires connected to it will not be optimal for sure. I search for some possibilities and found some guys, which have made a 3D printed box/case with connectors initially for their needs, but after interest for it they started to produce and sell to others -> RKDE . I contacted them at moment, when they was at the end of marketing and selling the product by themselves and my unit is last one for now from what I understand from communication with them. So now there isn’t any product on their still active site, but they was offering only the case or with soldered Ecumaster CAN board on it. They offered also an option for more powerful outputs. They offered 3D printed covers for some aftermarket dashes also. I ordered their standard option with Ecumaster board already soldered on it and after some waiting to be produced I received it 🙂
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They send me also as a gift some small boards for soldering and connecting wires, which they offered. A nice touch from them 🙂. Hopefully will not have issues with setting it up and will work as it should and be reliable. My plan is with it first to be tested new MAP sensor from previous post at same time in parallel with current one and if everything is as expected to be switched to it with new mounting bracket required for it. Coolant pressure sensor must come into play again.
This I/O expansion unit will open many possibilities for expansion of acquired data in the future, we will see 😁.

[kunev]

This post is related to wheels, something that have been mentioned several times so far. So first here is some summary:
- silver Borbet type E 16” 7.5J 4x98 - the car was initially with these and 215/40-R16 tyres. They was sold as I don’t see to go with 16” wheels and to free some space;
- titanium tech (dark grey) OZ Alleggerita HLT 16” 7J 4x100 - I bough them from advert new in the box mainly because was a good deal. They was sold years later with similar arguments to 16” Borbet and also for some fresh money;
- black Compomotive TH2 17” 7.5J 4x98 - these was additional set that came with the car with 215/35-R17 tyres and also there was one more new in the box, so 5. Still have them, but haven’t put them on the car yet…
- crystal titanium OZ Ultraleggera 17” 7J 4x100 - these I bough used from advert and currently are on the car.

For OZ Ultraleggera I can say that they are my favourite wheel model. They have very aggressive and edged design and 155 is also edged so in my opinion they fit very well the appearance of the car, which I look for. And they are also super light, which have undeniable benefits for performance and is something that I also look for. I have sympathy for OZ, it is world famous company, which make high quality products used throughout in racing and is Italian as is the car and I think we all who like Italian cars also like Italian things in general 🙂. But there is one aspect with them, which I’m not so happy with - their PCD of 100. So with them I was required to use wobble bolts, which is generally a clever solution for such odd problem. But as I like so much this model and possibility to get one set arise, then that was something that I have to live with.

Years ago I have rarely heard or seen of OZ wheels with correct PCD for many of Italian cars of 98 4x98 or 5x98, but don’t remember to have seen somewhere a more complete list of what is available in such configuration. Some time ago I saw that one local company for wheels and tyres offer same Ultraleggera variant, which I have on the car, but with correct PCD of 4x98 and the price was good compared to other variants in the same diameter. I made an order, but later they told me, that OZ answered them that this variant is not available and is stopped of production. They offer me other variant also in 4x98, but it was more expensive and I decided to not buy them then. I continued to look from time to time for Ultraleggera in 4x98 and during the pandemic have seen increase in prices of their wheels in general. Prices of used one also increased. There is one big local company for wheels and tyres, which previously was official dealer of OZ for here, then at one period look as not and recently again is listed as such and their site showed really a lot of models of OZ wheels. Recently prices
look to dropped compared to before that and after some thinking I decided to order one set and after 2-3 weeks these precious Italian metals arrived to me 😁
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These are OZ Ultraleggera 17” 7J 4x98 with ET35. The difference between these and current one on the car is that they are ET37 so a little more outwards, which must be seen what impact will have. Other difference is the color, these are matt graphite, which is darker grey than crystal titanium, which I like better, but just the options are very limited for such spec. Options for 4x98 seen in their site are 3 models - Rally racing, Formula HLT and Ultraleggera only in one size and spec and 2 or 3 colours. I have a feeling that all these are especially prepared for particular car and this car is Fiat 500.
I don’t plan to install them immediately, maybe when it is time to change the tyres, but glad to have them on my disposal 🙂. Also installation is not direct swap, standard wheel bolts, which must be longer as I have wheel spacers at front and back, which on itself may need some modifications or changes as tyres are close to fenders edge.

[kunev]

Some update for the start of new season, unfortunately without any photo.
The weather here this "spring" is not very nice with low temperatures and a lot of rain, but season must be started some day after all. Generally, my goal and plan is each season of driving to start with some inspection, servicing and possibly something else and this is highly preferably to be done by the tuner and builder of the car - ICI Design. As I have said before, he carried over the whole project and is very experienced from many executed tuning projects with cars using this and similar engine and drivetrain. Unfortunately, he is far away from me, but that is life. In previous posts I have explained in detail some things, which have been planned to be done and they was on the list for this visit. So, here is some summary for carried work.
- Engine oil was changed with same used since the engine was built - Amsoil Dominator 15W-50. This is racing engine oil and is expensive.
- Failed wideband sensor was replaced, fortunately and as expected only it was the issue, not AEM controller. This is second failed Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor since the car is build and for this time we decided to go with more protected and closed sensor bung. It was custom made by ICI Design and first such he made and use in his personal highly modified Fiat Coupe 2.0 16V turbo integrale. I see such item to be offered from Innovate Motorsports. We expect longer sensor life with it.
- MAP sensor was replaced with different one, which I showed in some of previous posts. It have range 30-350kPa and previous one was 50-400kPa. I wasn't absolutely sure about its range and expected 20-350kPa from some numbers, so good that it is almost like that and support goal, which was lower range than before and enough upper range. Some work here for different plug, mounting, air connection, check and tune up of ECU data.
- CAN bus switch board was mounted and unused coolant pressure sensor was connected to it. Because of specifics related to location of sensor, sensor specifications and how it is setup in Ecumaster program, this more for data trend and form and noticing small head gasket leak, than actual values.
- Air conditioner topping up.
- Upgrade of ECU's firmware and some changes there for vehicle speed, boost in higher gears
- There was also some things noticed, which needed attention - one was torn up CV boot and an issue with spigot rings.

[kunev]

And now a post with pictures and no technical information . Recently I took part in Alfa Fest in Romania, which was four days event, that took place in Piatra Neamț and some places around it. It was a very well organised event with many participants mostly with much newer alfas. A long, around 1800km trip for me and the car and fortunately with no issues. Here are some my pictures of the car from this event.
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[AlfaJack]

It looks fantastic. Thank you for the updates. It makes for some good inspiration!

I just watched the video from a few months ago...it is quick!!

[kunev]

Thanks for the good words AlfaJack 🙂! Not so sure if it is a good thing to be taken a lot of inspiration of it 😁, maybe some small one 🙂. Just it’s a long and expensive path toward something very special (read far from standard).

Not much to be said about work on the car. We have configured ECU’s onboard MAP sensor as a barometric pressure in the ECU. It was unused after switching to external MAP sensor. This was done not so to be used in control strategies in the ECU, but rather for monitoring and because I wanted to see boost pressure in the log, not only absolute manifold pressure. As it is inside the cabin and not exposed to big pressure amplitudes, oil fumes and moisture, I expect to not fail and live a long way. Strangely, look like it’s scaling as a BARO sensor cannot be changed, but there is table for that… Ecumaster must be asked for this. But it show values, which look to be valid. In the Ecumaster software for EMU Black cannot be configured math channels, but they have specific software for data analysis DataMaster, where such calculated math channels are possible. I have added such for boost there, where barometric pressure is substrates from absolute manifold pressure. I have calculated math channels there also for turbocharger speed, current fuel consumption.
Just to mention, that barometric pressure, which is expected in this case is different than that provided on weather forecasts.
IMG_1748.jpeg
QFE: (FE) Field Elevation
QNH: (NH) Natural Horizon
QNE: (NE) Natural Earth

On weather forecast is provided QNH and here is expected QFE. There is aviation apps providing detail information. I have AutoDens on my phone.

I have done some shooting of the car recently, so here is some of it 🙂
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And one video clip

[AlfaJack]

Amazing as ever - way over my head but what you have acheived is great.

Nice video too. Hopfully you can do a chase video with the 155 - they have objet tracking don't they (if you don't have a pilot to fly it).

[Varypodaros]

Nice 👍👍👍