1993 Alfa Romeo 155 Q4

**wrinx** · 03-05-14, 21:49

Decided to get serious with it now!

Everything removed ready for dropping the rear diff and subframe tomorrow.

Crusty!

Trailing arm at full drop!

Spring removed and in the bath.

Halfway there, dramatic difference.

Anti-roll bar bolts; always a bit tricky but these came of with a bit of care...and an Irwin on one!

Onto the big bolts.

Compared with one from my old non-Q4 155.

Arms out.

Exhaust removed.

Anti-rollbar off...how thick should they be, I reckon I've lost 2mm in rust!

Had a quick five minutes play with the grinder and wire wheel, it should clean up ok.

The only question remains...wire wheel and several coats of enamel paint or sandblast and powder coating. Ignoring the effort and time involved in the former is the latter really worth the difference? I've read of it chipping easily and not lasting very long

wrinx

**wrinx** · 04-05-14, 22:01

Did a bit more today...removed rear diff and rear subframe, stripped the rear arms and removed the bearings.

But first, couldn't resist another picture of the Oz Zagatos...damn they look good!

Today's job, remove the diff and subframe.

Diff removed.

Subframe removed.

Big empty space!

Decided to remove the rusty tube and clean it up, the wire wheel is great, but...

...when the wires fly off, they draw blood! Eye protection is essential.

Cleaner.

Finished and being treated with Deox Gel, the black areas are the small areas of rust left despite all the wire grinding.

Primed with Bonda.

While I was waiting for the Deox Gel to work I replaced the bottom spring pan bolts which were more than a little worse for wear and usually shear off, they simply knock out.

That only took a minute, so turned my attention to the spring that had been in the tank for a few hours; ready for spraying.

Onto the rear trailing arms, stripped all the bits off.

This is the bearing that needs to be removed, mine had a fair amount of play in them, the top of the wheels were leaning in!

First one removed, what a mess; the grease had solidified!

Second one looked better, side by side.

This is the race, still in the arm, form the bad one shown above...another mess!

A second rough bearing.

Next, the races were removed from the arms, this one had indentation marks from the roller bearings...perhaps made on fitting??? Very odd.

Confirming the bearing code...same as other 155s.

Off to the pub tomorrow!

wrinx

**elCrillo** · 05-05-14, 07:31

Originally Posted by wrinx

Update time...

Bumper is a bit bright!

wrinx

Nice! I want one to! Have ju just cut away plastic ore have you "weld" some in?

**wrinx** · 05-05-14, 08:19

I cut out the holes and bits inside the bumper, then filled the gap with expanding foam and bodyfiller on top.

If I was doing it again (might do in future!) I would look at plastic welding some pieces in.

wrinx

**wrinx** · 07-05-14, 20:32

Didn't get to the pub, so another day in the garage...

Wire wheeled one of the trailing arms, grinder seemed much smoother today :hs:

Primed it.

Etch primed the rear springs.

Popped the ARB into the de-rusting tub.

wrinx

**wrinx** · 07-05-14, 20:32

Hub removed.

Disc to assist with pressing out the bearing.

Pressing out the bearing...

...and it's out!

Race still on the hub.

Out with the grinder.

When it's thin enough (heat marks indicate thin stuff), a sharp tap with a hammer and chisel will crack the race and release it.

Also stripped down the subframe...

These had to come out.

Hit the large ones hard enough and the top cracks off and the rubber punches through.

But not the smaller ones, which also needed the 6t press.

Out!

wrinx

**wrinx** · 07-05-14, 20:33

Not much done today, started refurbishing the rear calipers ready for painting red, trailing arm bearings arrived. their arrival confirmed everything that's been posted so far.

Caliper refurb started.

Bearing shared with other 155s.

But not the long bolt!

wrinx

**MaxiBoost** · 09-05-14, 07:11

Originally Posted by wrinx

Spring removed and in the bath.

hi wrinx
Im follow your works
could you tell me detail about this?

a plasic case
in some water?
negative side on part
positive side on a iron part?

how many volt and current u used?
how many hours waiting?

**wrinx** · 09-05-14, 08:46

This is where I got the information from:

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm

I usually leave the parts in overnight, wirebrush and put back for another night if it's necessary.

It's not the fastest method, but it's the cleanest! If I need something in a hurry I use a "twisted knot" disc in my grinder, but that's very messy.

wrinx

**Evodelta** · 09-05-14, 09:27

Liking your work, I've got the same job to do myself this Summer, my thoughts and experiences are:

Rotary wire brush is hard work (tough on the hands too) and tends to polish which isn't a good surface for paint to cling to, we've got a 225 litre drum which I fill with Deox (we buy and sell in bulk so it's much cheaper) so I just throw parts in that and leave them there.
If I want them quicker we've got an aquarium heater I bung in to heat it up, it speeds up the process greatly. Before we remove working engines for reconditioning I add it to the water system and run it round for a while so it de-rusts internally.

I've found this: http://www.rust.co.uk/products/categ...hassis-paint/#

Which i'll be ordering today to paint everything with, there's an independent test on there which rated it highly.

Spring coils tend to sit on one another which is why they rust so easily, rubber tube pushed on the ends can help for a while. I wondered about zinc plate but worried about 'Hydrogen embrittlement'. I dipped my rear calipers in the de-rust tank, then zinc plated, then painted black, they've lasted really well. I figured they weren't particularly pretty to look at and always dirty with brake dust so matt black was best.

Keep up the good work.

**wrinx** · 09-05-14, 09:49

That looks like good stuff, wish I'd found it before spraying my springs form a rattle can!

The wire disc I use in the grinder doesn't polish as such, it's quite an aggressive tool, particularly the wires when they come flying out!

wrinx

**Evodelta** · 09-05-14, 11:15

Yeah I know all about it - been there, done that! They're great for removing underseal and seam sealer, but the out of balance wheel turned my hands numb and tingly after an hour or two.

I found the best Etch primer is Tetrosyl btw, we got some grey stuff in a spray can for touching up and it didn't survive the scratch test. The Tetrosyl refuses to let go and you can even weld near or through it.

While you have your car in bits can you measure me the distance between the strut fixing holes (centre to centre) on the front hub uprights? Doesn't have to be too accurate.
It would be useful (for everyone) to know what they are. I know Fiat Coupe are around 73mm and suspect Q4 is a lot smaller, but not sure.

**wrinx** · 09-05-14, 12:11

Thanks for the tip, I needed some quickly and bought Upol from the local Halfords!

wrinx

**wrinx** · 09-05-14, 20:17

Originally Posted by Evodelta

While you have your car in bits can you measure me the distance between the strut fixing holes (centre to centre) on the front hub uprights? Doesn't have to be too accurate.
It would be useful (for everyone) to know what they are. I know Fiat Coupe are around 73mm and suspect Q4 is a lot smaller, but not sure.

wish you'd asked me this last week, before I put the wheels on

I made it a rough 72mm by placing a pair of calipers on the bolts...so 73mm is looking good!

wrinx

**Evodelta** · 10-05-14, 08:18

Thanks, I was laid on the floor with a tape measure so I wasn't so accurate either, if it was different it would be a lot.
It's looking likely that the Fiat Coupe suspension fits your car then, which if it does it opens up some more opportunities for you guys.

**wrinx** · 10-05-14, 21:00

They fit the non-Q4 155s as do 916 uprights, several have used them to fit Brembos without messing with brackets.

wrinx

**wrinx** · 13-05-14, 09:08

Bearings fitted to both arms.

The cobbled together kit.

Fitted.

Wheel bearing.

Fitted.

Bump stops

wrinx

**wrinx** · 13-05-14, 09:09

Need to think about sideskirts too, not sure about these but there's some potential once modified.

wrinx

**wrinx** · 13-05-14, 09:09

Poly subframe bushes arrived today...complete with a packet of green snot

They look great...

Parts at various stages of painting...

Hoping to pick up the subframe today...then I've just got to work out how to fit all these bits without scratching them! :shock:

wrinx

**Evodelta** · 13-05-14, 22:05

Who makes the subframe bushes?

**wrinx** · 13-05-14, 22:07

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251506891707

http://www.fccuk.org/forum/ubbthread...32#Post1304132

wrinx

**Jan** · 20-05-14, 21:20

Looking good Wrinx!!

**wrinx** · 20-05-14, 21:48

Thanks

Couple more updates...

Everything has now gone from the rear end...

The rear jacking points were noted on the last MOT, they are a bit rough!

Couldn't resist scraping off a bit of underseal...not as bad as I thought it was going to be!

I'm struggling to see the point of the void by each jacking point, towards the front of the car. I might just weld a blank over the space as it's just a moisture trap at present.

wrinx

**wrinx** · 20-05-14, 21:49

Nightmare job, spent about two hours on this and don't seem to have made much progress. Apart from sandblasting, is there an easier way to do it? I've tried the knotted wheel and heat gun but neither were any quicker and the former is very messy.

Currently using a woodworking chisel, to be followed with the knotted wheel to clean up where necessary:

wrinx

**wrinx** · 20-05-14, 21:50

Not much done since Sunday as I'm not well (which is why I found it hard work!)

Finished painting the arms, two coats of Smoothrite. I'd fallen out with Hammerite products over the past few years but am quite happy with how it went on these...not sure how hardy it'll be on the road.

Then cleaned up the threads in the hubs with a couple of taps and squeezed the hubs into place.

wrinx