What have you done for her lately?

**Steve Webb** · 26-09-10, 14:36

Sounds like the slide bolts are seized up Jack, had the same thing happen to me a while back. New mounting bracket time I think.

**AlfaJack** · 26-09-10, 21:14

They seem OK - I have had it too causing a pad wear down to the metal. I looked at the bias unit again and got my dad to stand on the brakes and there was very little movement from it - only a few mm. Not sure if this is right or not. I think I will order the other two braided hoses that connect across the rear swing arm as a matter of precaution. However I don't think they are stick on at all. Perhaps I need to strip down the calipers if I can not make any sense of the bias unit.

**WhizzMan** · 27-09-10, 03:12

I think you already answered your own post. The rear compensator is probably stuck internally. You can take the rubber boot off after you've removed the spring. The arm can hang down. You now see a single pin with a washer on it. That should just come out if you pull it. Now there are 2 pins, normally operated by the washer. These are for the left and right wheels. Most likely, these are stuck and need some motivation and/or lubrication. They should go in, depressing the pedal should push them out again. Don't whack them too hard with a hammer, you don't want them deformed, just liberated. Make sure you put plenty of lithium grease or equivalent on the pins/ring and inside the rubber boot. This will help prevent seizing and is done in the factory as well.

**AlfaJack** · 27-09-10, 08:12

Cheers Whizz. I will give that a go

**AlfaJack** · 03-10-10, 21:07

I checked the two pins either side of the rod and they appear to move. I forgot to get someone to stand on the brakes to push them out but I did try pulling them with long nose pliers. They did come out a short way but but I could not keep a good enough grip on them and once the pliers snapped off the pins went back in again. They did not seem seized up though.

Anyway, I will have it off the car soon to check again as I am going to copper pipe the whole rear end brake lines as one of the pipes looks very suspect with corrosion.

**WhizzMan** · 04-10-10, 06:55

If the pins moved and the larger pin can move freely, you should be okay. Just make sure the spring is tensioned enough so the pins don't get pushed out without it giving resistance. The official way to adjust it, is to put the car on a 4 point lift and use a 5 kg weight hanging from the hole in the pivot arm. Most people I know put either more weight on, or even just tighten it way harder without any weight on. This will move the brake balance further back. You could risk the rear end blocking earlier and spinning the car while braking hard if you overdo it.

If the spring is worn/stretched, you could heat it red hot and bend it. Then quench it in cold water. If you try to bend it cold, it will snap.

I broke an adjuster last friday. I tried to get the pin for the pivot arm out and managed to break the cast iron part. Now I have to replace it and I don't have a proper flange tool for cunifer brake lines. I think I might just go and get a length of copper so I can do a makeshift version if I break any lines while replacing....

**WhizzMan** · 06-10-10, 12:41

Sourced some vernier pulleys and an integrale elbow on the bay.

I have to finish and sell a 145 to get funds to pay for an engine (in bits) reserved for me. This engine still needs building, but with 3 blocks, 2 cranks, a 16V NA head with NA cams, new pistons, 2 sets of conrods, 2 oil pumps I'm sure I'll be able to get one running engine out of it. I'm not keeping both of the NA cams in, planning on putting the inlet cam from the engine that's in it now as exhaust. Combined with a flowed, refurbished original turbo with the 'grale elbow, flowed head, other cams, 250+ bhp should be achievable.

**WhizzMan** · 09-11-10, 09:29

I got my new daily driver MOTed yesterday. It's a 1996 bianco argento 2.0 16V TS, with a Vialle liquid LPG injection system, koni yellows, leather interior and cat-cams fast road cams in it. It still needs work to be a decent car, but at least it's legal to drive it now.

**AlfaJack** · 13-11-10, 20:16

Think I may have fixed the hesitation I have had for a while....it could have been from the FPR to inlet manifold vacuum pipe cracking and then completely snapping.

Fixed it and it drove nicely in the few miles I did afterwards - will see how it goes.

**wrinx** · 13-11-10, 23:18

Fingers crossed

Me...I put the cover back on after the wind blew it off the other day

Still, was nice to see the old girl again...

wrinx

**Steve Webb** · 25-01-11, 10:39

Still battling with my clutch master and slave cylinders, or should I say the pipe between the 2. Taking out the Air-con and all associated pipework has freed up a whole heap of space under the bonnet which is making life easier though.

**Steve Webb** · 30-01-11, 22:49

Quiet in here recently? Everyone got oily hands or depressed by the new year and the weather?

**wrinx** · 31-01-11, 09:08

DIYing...

wrinx

**Steve Webb** · 20-02-11, 15:41

As much aircon has come out as I can manage with the head on, the clutch is now operational again, and there are no fluid leaks. Hurrah!!
Just got to sort out the bonnet release cable now.

**biggie_** · 20-02-11, 23:24

i have left my bella on the mechanic for some paint work, needs to paint one door and polish all the body, i want she looks shinny on 17th april because i have a track day with my friends of the Alfa Corse Club

P.S. i've also ordered a new set of brake pads (EBC Bluestuff) and a new steering wheel (Momo suede 78)

**Steve Webb** · 21-02-11, 23:26

My fuel pressure gauge and matching voltmeter arrived today, so hopefully I'll get some time to get them mounted and wired in this week.
The voltmeter will be no problem, but a T piece is needed for the pressure sender.

**Steve Webb** · 27-02-11, 20:40

Well both gauges are fitted, but only the voltmeter is plugged in at the moment. Also tried measuring the capacity of the old Aircon rad for my chargecooler idea, but I'm thinking the pipework is too small to flow the amount of water needed.

**T M Oren** · 28-02-11, 21:42

Cleened the wiper motor inside.
And the wipers working fine...

**Steve Webb** · 01-03-11, 10:47

Originally Posted by T M Oren

Cleened the wiper motor inside.
And the wipers working fine...

Ahh, that old problem. Been a while since thats been brought up.
Did you touch up the corner of the bonnet where they have been rubbing as well?

**T M Oren** · 01-03-11, 18:36

Originally Posted by Steve Webb

Ahh, that old problem. Been a while since thats been brought up.
Did you touch up the corner of the bonnet where they have been rubbing as well?

Yes.
I use my angelgrinder and take avay material from the wiperarm.
The wiperarm and my hood is resprayed.
Many cars have this problem, odd... :-(

**Steve Webb** · 09-03-11, 22:56

Another box from Demon Tweeks arrived today so it look like I've got all the bits to finally get the fuel pressure gauge installed, and make a start on the bonnet catches, which feel pretty decent quality.

**jNk** · 12-03-11, 22:27

We've changed the valve cover gasket (Victor Reinz) with my mechanic today because there was some oil leaking.

The 2 oil pipe to the oilcooler is leaking too so the next change will be that.

**Steve Webb** · 13-03-11, 11:44

Careful with those oilcooler pipes, they have got a habit of being threadlocked on and can damage the oilcooler when you try to get them off.

**Steve Webb** · 13-03-11, 19:54

Today I finally got the fuel pressure gauge all plumbed in. Not 100% happy with the install and position of the sender but I'll take another look at that.

I also managed to re-route my boost gauge pipework, so all in all a good day in the garage.

The only downside is one of my little helpers (Cat) has gone missing.

**Steve Webb** · 29-03-11, 09:25

Everyone is pretty quiet at the moment, too busy in the garage or like me the spring has brought too many other jobs around the house to get down in the garage and play?

Thread: What have you done for her lately?

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