Engine Reassembly

**jimnielsen** · 08-06-09, 08:53

Well, that title is a few days premature, perhaps, but I'm sick of the "small problem at Sandown" thread - so i have decided to start one that is about assembly instead! hopefully I will start to actually reassemble the engine later this week!!!! Anyway. I am interested in peoples opinions on pre-priming the oil system on the Q4 Engine. I am planning on using this basic methodology..

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XDWkx-XNpHc"]YouTube - Freshly Rebuilt Maserati V6[/ame]

what do you all think? would it be better to use the hole where the oil pressure sender plugs in - that way it would (maybe...) fill the oil cooler and oil filter as well??? As the Q4 oil cooler is fitted with the outlets facing down - does it drain direct to the sump with gravity?

cheers, jim.

**arjunior45** · 08-06-09, 11:20

Can have not any opinion about. Sorry.

**arjunior45** · 08-06-09, 11:25

Originally Posted by jimnielsen

As the Q4 oil cooler is fitted with the outlets facing down - does it drain direct to the sump with gravity?

cheers, jim.

It might. But do not forget that near the filter there is a thermostatic valve that till 83,5 degrees C does not let the oil pass through the oil cooler and send it directly to the engine.

AJ · 08-06-09, 12:48

This is the way I've done it and do it for every oil change:

It doesn't allow oil back down to the sump - I filled the oil cooler & lines with oil and then didn't get to start it until the next day, so I checked - but it was full still. I'm not sure on the standard oil cooler but it might be worth unbolting it to make filling easier.

Fill engine with oil, take off rocker cover and make sure the top is well coated with oil.

Turn engine over by hand for as many revolutions as you can. Taking the spark plugs out makes this easier.

Also take off the oil return for the turbo so that you can see when oil has travelled through the turbo, then reconnect.

Then spin it on the starter to build up pressure.

Plugs in and start. Check for leaks.

I like the idea of pressurising up on the oil filter as per the video.

**wrinx** · 08-06-09, 21:18

What about assembly grease?

wrinx

**jimnielsen** · 08-06-09, 23:51

yep, going to use that as well...

AJ · 09-06-09, 07:05

If the cams are new you need to use cam lube, if they are already used you can use normal oil.

**#84** · 09-06-09, 11:37

I had never done it when I changed main and connecting rod bearing shells last summer at 90.000 km. All bearings looked fine. After reassembling the bottom of the engine I turned it carefully for 20 revolutions "by hand".

**jimnielsen** · 09-06-09, 21:28

#84, did you do this with the engine in the car or on the stand? - how did you turn it over?

**#84** · 10-06-09, 06:25

By turning the flywheel with a tool on one of the bolts. Engine in car, gearbox out of car.
When I think of it I can remember that I have rolled the car in gear on the ground at some oil changes. In both cases without spark plugs.

**SteveNZ** · 10-06-09, 07:33

That guy sure is cocky. Good method though

I would not worry too much about pumping the engine galaries full of oil if you dont have the means. If you do, then may as well. If you don't then you need to fill up the filter first..

I use a good amount of assembly lube and also fill the filter up. Crank it over with the plugs out till you get oil pressure and a bit more to get some oil through into the engine. There is no strain or stress on the bearings with the plugs out. The assembly lube should maintain a film on the bearings when its cranking slowly.

The Maserati engine maybe different to the average engine, I dont't know.

It would not be practical to fill the engine galaries through the oil pressure sender boss. The feed is just too small, it would take forever.

**jimnielsen** · 10-06-09, 10:36

Well. I'm going to give it a go.. and do a video too - all I need is a tall skinny guy with a grey shirt!

**jimnielsen** · 11-06-09, 06:37

I now have the head back, after having it refitted. I have replaced the broken valve, and all the valve guides, had all the valves re-seated. The face had to be machined 0.008" to bring it back to perfectly flat. Should be ready to go back on next week when I get the block back from the machine shop.

jimn~

**jimnielsen** · 11-06-09, 10:39

In the pic below, that comes from the Q4 manual - it shows the Q4 type engine on an engine stand that bolts to the side of the engine....My question is this...

Can these mount points be used to support the engine on an engine dyno? The one I have access to is set-up for engines that face north-south and so I need to be able to get the engine into the thing in that orientation?

**1NRO** · 11-06-09, 18:36

I don't know for sure but to me the engine would need held at the angle it's installed into the car, they lean forward a lot. There's a UK fella who has done a lot of dyno work with these engines would I could try and tap some info for you if nobody can clear the mist.

Nik

**mindus** · 11-06-09, 19:30

Yes you can.... but don't ask me more details

http://www.zica.it/galerie.php?lan=e...erie&&galid=18

**jimnielsen** · 11-06-09, 21:26

Thanks, Mindus..at least I see from the pics and links that you posted that it can be done! The question of whether to 'demount' the existing ECU or use a different one... is also answered - at least with his approach he is using an EFI Technology Euro 096 ECU (no - I've never heard of them...) Thanks for the post!~

**jimnielsen** · 12-06-09, 03:07

I thought I'd do a bit of a trial fit of the ('ebay') extractors as I remember that some were having trouble with the body of the extractors being too close to the valve cover...I am going to have them ceramic coated next week and if any adjustment of the extractors is needed, I'd rather do that now!

seems to fit fine!

**SteveNZ** · 12-06-09, 07:14

Originally Posted by jimnielsen

Can these mount points be used to support the engine on an engine dyno? The one I have access to is set-up for engines that face north-south and so I need to be able to get the engine into the thing in that orientation?

Yes.

The block is really an evolution of the older RWD Fiat twin cam block (Fiat 131, 124 etc). The original RWD mounts are still cast into the block. The RWD mounts have 4 studs, you may find that your block still has 2 or 3 of these studs/bolts present which have been used for exhaust bracket etc on the Q4. You can simply fit the extra studs that are not there or make do as it is.

**jimnielsen** · 18-06-09, 07:23

Finally got the block back today. I had it bored to suit the 84.5mm pistons and machined to make it flat. So far I have cleaned it, put in the oil squirters, the balance shaft removal 'kit' bungs and given it a bit of a paint!

**jimnielsen** · 18-06-09, 07:24

here it is..

**Juan AR155Q4** · 18-06-09, 12:54

Jim,
Just one bung must be fitted to remove balance shafts?
Have you got more info/pics on this?

What a great place to work you have...

**wrinx** · 18-06-09, 17:22

Looks like you've got better clearance than my manifold, no way would it fit without filing some of the head and double gasketing!!!

Word of caution, don't trust the stainless bolts for fitting the turbo, make sure you use some decent lock washers as mine rattled themselves off!

Looking very clean...

wrinx

**jimnielsen** · 20-06-09, 06:39

I needed to size up the piston rings properly - mostly just the top rings - The gap for the top ring is supposed to be .015-.016 inch - but they were actually .005 inch, so they needed a bit of work! I copied a 'ring filing machine' that I found a story about on the internet - it worked very well..

Juan.. there are two bungs for the balance shaft removal setup - one for the center bearing for each shaft. The bungs are a very tight fit - they hardly need the 'washer' and bolt on the end. I froze the bungs to get them to go in easier..

Wrinx.. when you say 'lock washers' you mean like simple spring washers - no?

**jimnielsen** · 20-06-09, 06:41

also.. I have fitted the pistons to the rods.. It is quite difficult to get the rod bottoms to separate from the main rod forging. Putting the piston pins in was a new experience - at least for me!