Small Problem at Sandown Raceway

**wrinx** · 08-03-09, 10:04

Originally Posted by jimnielsen

It fits! In fact it fits really well. Height is a bit of a problem, but it still fits in the available space with a little local trimming, and uses the original bottom bracket.

Will you please stop posting pictures of your ramp

Looking very purposeful

wrinx

**jimnielsen** · 08-03-09, 10:14

I'd swap it for a Q4 that actually goes....

**wrinx** · 08-03-09, 10:46

Counts me out then

wrinx

**jimnielsen** · 12-03-09, 03:42

coils... the coils go at the back of the inlet manifold as marked in pic 1 - I'd like to put them somewhere more accessible...has anybody moved the coils 'elsewhere'?

Map Sensor Manifold connection... I'd like to move the map sensor connection on the manifold from where is normally is (pic2) to the connection in pic3, so that it is more accessible (I'm not using that connection for anything else..) any problems with this??

Radiator.. even after moving to a 60mm thick radiator core, the new rad/fan combo is still 50mm shorter than standard...

jimn~

**axaQ42** · 12-03-09, 05:49

For methe only way of moving the coils with the original cable is to use an integrale manifold

**jimnielsen** · 12-03-09, 07:50

yes, that would be great, but I have not been able to find one for sale

cheers, jim.

**AlfaJack** · 12-03-09, 08:35

The rad and fan setup looks great. Let us know how well it works...

**arjunior45** · 12-03-09, 09:18

Originally Posted by jimnielsen

coils... the coils go at the back of the inlet manifold as marked in pic 1 - I'd like to put them somewhere more accessible...has anybody moved the coils 'elsewhere'?

jimn~

that's one of the reasons I'd like to go to 'coils on spark' solution. Any way, if you are interested for a combination of '4 ignition modules - 4 coils on spark' drop me an e-mail.
All you need is:
another 2 {two} oem ignition modules
and
4 {four} 'coils on spark' . The one from 5 cylinder FIAT engines will do the job.

Nick

**Gery83** · 12-03-09, 13:08

I moved them here, and used the oem ignition cables. Just bend the holder metall part, and screw it on. The holes are already there.

Originally Posted by jimnielsen

coils... the coils go at the back of the inlet manifold as marked in pic 1 - I'd like to put them somewhere more accessible...has anybody moved the coils 'elsewhere'?

Map Sensor Manifold connection... I'd like to move the map sensor connection on the manifold from where is normally is (pic2) to the connection in pic3, so that it is more accessible (I'm not using that connection for anything else..) any problems with this??

Radiator.. even after moving to a 60mm thick radiator core, the new rad/fan combo is still 50mm shorter than standard...

jimn~

**mindus** · 12-03-09, 19:05

Originally Posted by jimnielsen

Map Sensor Manifold connection... I'd like to move the map sensor connection on the manifold from where is normally is (pic2) to the connection in pic3, so that it is more accessible (I'm not using that connection for anything else..) any problems with this??

That's the way it was done in my engine after overhaul and everything works fine... I can not think of why Alfa installed that connection in so hardly accessible place :-/

**AlfaJack** · 12-03-09, 22:12

Originally Posted by mindus

That's the way it was done in my engine after overhaul and everything works fine... I can not think of why Alfa installed that connection in so hardly accessible place :-/

Italians cars and electronics

**Gery83** · 15-03-09, 14:03

Originally Posted by jimnielsen

I decided that I wanted a larger capacity radiator in the Q4... This is it...The Radiator is a almost the same size - width wise, but its 90MM taller. The core of this radiator is 60mm compared to 24mm on the original one. Its 800 grams heavier than the Q4 rad. I am going to use a different cooling fan that is only 65MM thick (as opposed to the Q4's 150mm! thick fan). I will probably lower the bottom mounting bracket such that this thing still fits under the black metal panel that is over the original radiator. The main inlet/outlet ports can be put on any of the four corners of the radiator, as the connectors are threaded.

cheers, jim.

Hi!

Where can I buy such a radiator?
What does it cost?

Thanks!

**jimnielsen** · 15-03-09, 19:01

I purchased the radiator here...

http://myworld.ebay.com.au/originalpartsgroup/

it cost $349.00 (Australian dollars that is...)

jim.

**Gery83** · 15-03-09, 19:12

Originally Posted by jimnielsen

I purchased the radiator here...

http://myworld.ebay.com.au/originalpartsgroup/

it cost $349.00 (Australian dollars that is...)

jim.

Holy Shit...

Thanks!

**jimnielsen** · 20-03-09, 05:01

I have got a couple of new bits and pieces for my engine rebuild..First is a nozzle for use as an intercooler spray. It is the one used by the 'autospeed' system.. like this...

http://store.autospeed.com/Kits%20an...Water%20Spray/

I am using it with a SureFlo pump like this...

http://www.shurflo.com/pages/new_ind...0-543-136.html

I have done some testing with the pump and nozzle. It uses 1 Litre every 3 minutes - so I will only need a water reservoir of 3-4 litres. It produces an amazingly fine mist spray.

also I have got the crank assembly hack after having it balanced and linished.

Last is a 'V-Band Clamp' I had not really seen these things before, but i looks like it will make the turbo exhaust system much easier to deal with...

jimn~

**jimnielsen** · 22-03-09, 00:04

In the manual, I can see that there are three thickness of main bearings - a, b and c. presumably so that you can machine the main journals down and use a thicker bearing. BUT... why does the radial clearance specified vary for each thickness of bearing - wouldn't this be setup the same regardless of the thickness of the bearing??

**wrinx** · 22-03-09, 12:11

Especially when, looking at the figures, they could all be set at 0.037 and be within tolerance.

I'm guessing it's something to do with the way the oil flows (less shoulder on the bearing), but haven't got a clue really!

wrinx

**Juan ALZAGA** · 23-03-09, 10:35

hI JIM! I'm trying to get same RADIATOR than you from OriginalPartsGroup Ebay Store. Could you be so kind as to let me know if below one is the Radiator you bought from them?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au:80/ws/eBayISA...:X:RTQ:AU:1123
BTW, the radiator FAN you get it from same seller? Any link on that?
Thanks a lot for your tips which will be really helpful to cool down the beast! (quite hot in this early fall in Buenos Aires!) Cheers. Juan

**jimnielsen** · 23-03-09, 10:56

yes that is the exact same radiator - from the same seller. The fan came from...

http://myworld.ebay.com.au/direct_engine_parts/

be aware that the filler cap on top is a bit of a problem in that you either have to cut a hole in the black metal panel that runs over the existing radiator (between the headlights..) for the cap to fit up and through (as I have done..) - or cut off the cap and weld the hole up. frankly it may be easier to cut the top bit off - as it will give you another 25mm in height which is useful..

cheers, jim~

**Juan ALZAGA** · 23-03-09, 11:44

Thanks a lot JIM for your tips and advise! As a result of the hot weather down on here and specially because of the tubular inox manifold things are getting extremely hotter under the hood...not to mention the boost levels that do not cope at all either, so i believe that changing the radiator will be of help to normalize things ....Thanks a lot once again! cheers
Juan

**jimnielsen** · 28-03-09, 00:38

Well, I have now got all the bearings and gaskets that I need to but this engine back together! So at least I have been able to put the main shells in, torque them up and see what sort of clearance we have! I am going to use a mic to do them later - but plastiguage will do for now and it says approx 3 thou.

jimn~

**jimnielsen** · 01-04-09, 06:10

finally got my wide band lambda sensor back from innovate. at least they had the decency to send me a brand new one rather than fixing the old one!

jimn~

**jimnielsen** · 10-04-09, 01:03

This is the electric water pump that I have bought for when I reassemble the engine (soon...) Its a Davies Craig EWP80. It cost $165.00 (AUD). Its rated at 80L/pm. I am going to use it without an 'electronic control unit' that varies the speed of the pump in response to engine temperature. So it will just run flat-out all of the time. Its going to go 'in-line' on the lower radiator hose. Also I am using Wrinx's old thermostat with the 'thermostat bit' removed. The only connections I really need it to have are (1) the hole that goes through to the block (2) the main connection that goes to the radiator and the small connector that goes to the bleed side of the filler reservoir.

cheers, jimn~

**arjunior45** · 10-04-09, 07:43

why don't you use a trimmer for the wire connection? So, you will be able to 'adjust' the pumps speed manually as you please. At least you could use an on-off switch.
Without the thermostat it will take you ages to worm-up the engine before the race, don't you think?

Let us see pictures when you mount this pump in the car. It will be interesting.

Nick

**jimnielsen** · 10-04-09, 12:32

They do take longer to warm up this way (at idle..) but on the track, its not a problem. I have used them with an on-off switch before, the problem is that is SO EASY to forget to turn the switch on. Its just simpler to wire it to the ignition and not have to worry about it. Also, you get used to hearing it come on when you turn the ignition switch to the 'on' position.

jimn~