Small Problem at Sandown Raceway

**Evodelta** · 04-02-09, 06:34

If you can wait (or no-one else tells you a better way) I'll get a pic of how you get the pulley off, it's very easy. Yes, that is a slide hammer.

**jimnielsen** · 04-02-09, 07:04

I can wait

- its nighttime here anyway!

jim~

**1NRO** · 04-02-09, 07:30

Screw the crank pulley bolt back in (not quite all the way in) get a big washer that will sit on the top of bolt but not pass through the hole in the centre of the trigger wheel. Sandwich washer between bolt and trigger wheel and use two of the allen bolts that hold the rest of the pulleys on to back the pulley off.

**Evodelta** · 04-02-09, 07:31

I've got 5mins before heading off into the snow so I'll give you something to chew over.

Get some 5mm plate about 200 x 50. Wind the centre bolt (LH thread remember) into the crank, put the plate on top of this bolt head, drill two holes in line with 2 of the 4 holes which are in the pulley, wind in two of the hex head bolts which came out and Viola! Your pulley should slide off.

**na15575** · 04-02-09, 07:50

jim when you are going to sent the block for bore dont forget to plane the top of block
in the place of the head gasket
the surface must be like new one with no corosion holes from the water
and the fire ring can have full contact with the surfase

**jimnielsen** · 04-02-09, 08:20

Thanks for the advices on the pulley wheel - yes, I will have the block machined flat when I have it bored! Its going to be 44 degrees here tomorrow - I want snow too!

jim.

**jimnielsen** · 05-02-09, 05:15

I was taking the crankshaft out, and checking the bearings as I went, and they all looked great until #2 -as you can see it has a lot of damage on its surface, its lucky that it didn't grab and seize the engine! The journal looks ok.... Any ideas as to cause? the engine has only 77K on it.

jimn~

**AlfaJack** · 05-02-09, 07:35

When I rebuilt the engine on pavs car that is what No1 looked like. No real idea why though.

**Evodelta** · 05-02-09, 07:54

It's called 'Crap engine design'. This is why we have redesigned the products we sell and our engines are built for reliability aswell as horsepower.
At the moment I dismantle about one engine per week, every one has worn out bearings in it and most have scrap cranks. Below is this weeks victim, every single journal perfect apart from the one which is fed from the balancer shaft bearing, this is why we remove it and cap it off on a re-build. I took the pic whilst showing you how to remove the drive pulley, also shown.

**arjunior45** · 05-02-09, 08:01

Originally Posted by jimnielsen

I was taking the crankshaft out, and checking the bearings as I went, and they all looked great until #2 -as you can see it has a lot of damage on its surface, its lucky that it didn't grab and seize the engine! The journal looks ok.... Any ideas as to cause? the engine has only 77K on it.

jimn~

Jim, check the conrod from this piston too. If you find some kind of 'torsion' do not be surprised.

Do not know what caused this, but that was the 'look' of the bearings when my wife destroy the Bertone's engine.

Nick

**jimnielsen** · 05-02-09, 08:08

Thanks, Martin. I did get the pulley off ok - I remembered that I have a hydraulic puller and used it the same way as 'a piece of flat' - using the center bolt and a couple of bolts from the pulley. I am going to use your 'kit' for the balance shaft removal ! I am lucky that my crankshaft is not 'scrap' as they are not easy to obtain here. This is the journal from 3@ main that the bearing is from...

jimn~

**jimnielsen** · 06-02-09, 03:52

I took the injectors in to be tested today - I was worried that #3 injector may have contributed to the problem with detonation in that cylinder, but - no - they are all working perfectly... I guess that's good!

jim..

**Evodelta** · 06-02-09, 05:31

Why? You won't be needing them again!

**#84** · 06-02-09, 11:05

Jim, is it a scratch in the journal bearing in the picture, or is it melt bearing material? besides that, the crank looks ok.

**Juan AR155Q4** · 06-02-09, 11:53

The first injector (from left to right) is flowing less than second one, and is a big difference.
Or when the liquid settle down was the volume the same?

**jimnielsen** · 28-02-09, 05:39

I have been making some mods to the car to enable the implementation of an FMIC. Here it is..

shame the car still has no engine at this stage, but I am working on it!

are the small "air-vents' in the 2nd pic that were in the front bumper standard fitment?

cheers, jimn~

**wrinx** · 28-02-09, 09:41

No, the standard "fitment" is just rectangular/octagonal holes in the bumper

There are some pictures on a thread I started a while ago.

I think that looks REALLY nice! Btw...what did you do with the little blanking plate in the middle?

wrinx

**wrinx** · 28-02-09, 09:46

Here it is:

http://forum.berlinasportivo.org/sho...umper+cut+outs

Not my thread after all, Steve started it

The originals are there and my effort follows.

wrinx

**jimnielsen** · 28-02-09, 09:51

the small blanking plate is "in the bin" - do you need one? I am sure that I could retrieve it for you!

jimn~

**wrinx** · 28-02-09, 10:09

That would be great if you could

As you can see from the pics of my cutouts...I am without, and a red one is just perfect

wrinx

**jimnielsen** · 07-03-09, 00:48

I decided that I wanted a larger capacity radiator in the Q4... This is it...The Radiator is a almost the same size - width wise, but its 90MM taller. The core of this radiator is 60mm compared to 24mm on the original one. Its 800 grams heavier than the Q4 rad. I am going to use a different cooling fan that is only 65MM thick (as opposed to the Q4's 150mm! thick fan). I will probably lower the bottom mounting bracket such that this thing still fits under the black metal panel that is over the original radiator. The main inlet/outlet ports can be put on any of the four corners of the radiator, as the connectors are threaded.

cheers, jim.

**RMB-Racing** · 07-03-09, 09:01

Nice!

**jimnielsen** · 08-03-09, 03:06

It fits! In fact it fits really well. Height is a bit of a problem, but it still fits in the available space with a little local trimming, and uses the original bottom bracket.

**#84** · 08-03-09, 08:16

Jim, I really like the finnish of both the modification of the car's front and the radiator + IC. Especially the the air ventilations in the bumper are very tasful - but, is there anything left of the front bumper beam? It would have made me very nervous to drive a car on max attack with a structural part of the front removed...

**jimnielsen** · 08-03-09, 08:57

I have modified the 'beam' behind the front bumper a little to make it skinner to allow room for where I need the FMIC to be. I have also made it stronger - however - these cars are very weak at the front, the 'beam' is just one section of 1mm spot welded-pressed sheet metal. There is no diagonal bracing - in fact no bracing at all! It must have very poor torsional rigidity, you would not make a race-car like this by choice!

. On the other hand, I really need to be able to run this car at 7000 RPM and keep the coolant at < 90 degrees C.

jim. ~