What does yours run at (indicated)?
wrinx
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What does yours run at (indicated)?
wrinx
About 88 on the go and can get to around 97 in traffic.
85-86 on the go, 91-92 in heavy traffic during summer {in Greece} or 89-90 in traffic with 14-22 amb temp.
Never goes o over 90 (Fiat thermoswitch)
Mmm, presuming the middle line is 75, mine is 80 on the run, but can get over 90+ in traffic (I get nervous and switch on the aux fan then!).
Car has had a new radiator, thermostat and water pump over the last year or so...
Wonder if the two bumper holes are causing excessive cooling :roll:
wrinx
Those are excellent numbers!Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinx
The new radiotor does a lot. I need to replace mine, i do about 90 on a normal drive. In traffic the fan keeps everything under control, but is almost on all the time.
Greetings,
Marc
Really...I usually expect readings of around 88-90??? :confused: Don't want it running too cool as it'll overfuel :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Brul(tm)
Could be the gauge of course...
wrinx
It's still an Italian :biggrin:Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinx
But seriously, what I remeber while driving I had 90-92C on the gauge and in the summer the fan is almost constantly on :eek:
Very funny in traffic or at the petrol station :biggrin::rolleyes:
Everybody is looking at you... it's going to break down :doh:
Also, when I replaced the radioator on my 2.0 8V I get only 75-80C on the gauge. The thermostate is fine ;)
Greetings,
Marc
Thanks, I'll stop worrying then :)
wrinx
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brul(tm)
My fan is annoying...it wil click on for about 10s then off then about a minute later it is back on - I just want it to stay on for a good minute or two and cool it down. Not sure why it does this.
Also, if it is hot and I switch the engine off the fan wil come on after about 10 seconds and run for a while.
That's good imho, to remove excess underbonnet heat.Quote:
Originally Posted by AlfaJack
I do this manually during the cooling down period :)
Did you ever get the override switch working ok?
I still need to rewire my fan as the wiring is breaking down when hot :roll: Did just now in the car park...soon as it hits 92-ish the fan doesn't work, not even with my override switch!
wrinx
Yeah my override switch works well..it just doesn't light up :(
I stuck an override switch in as well, I tend to manually run the fan for the last mile or so of a journey.
I also got hold of a T-piece to slot into the radiator top hose, which houses a 2nd fan switch. The original is still in place. The idea being that this switch monitors the temp of the water returning to the rad, rather than halfway down the rad like the original one does.
I've just left the original disconnected electrically.
I put the manual switch and 2nd fan switch in place after a particularly stressful trip around the south circular after the fan switch went kaput!
One of my least favourite roads!Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Webb
Good ideas on the swtiches...I may consider the same.
Do you guys know about another way (than verifying opening/closing temperature) to test if the engine cooling temperature sender is working?
Thanks in advance!
C.
the sender is an NTC thermistor. There is a table in the manual that shows the resistance that the sensor should show at various temperatures. test the sensor cold then warm the car up and see if the resistance falls in the correct fashion...
Thanks, Jim.
I have been searching for it yesterday but didn't found it so assumed must not exist. Found it today after a deeper search (Electrical- Instrument Panel Troubleshooting/ 13-34)
Water Temperature (Celsius degrees) / Resistance (Ohm)
40/ 900-1400 60/ 470-600
80/ 235-300
90/ 174-215 .
My Q4's engine don't want to have it's first start after rebuid (oem), so this sender was in my mind.
Could be other reasons too but I will make another thread on it and ask for you help guys.
I assume that at cca 20 C degrees (engine off), the measurered resistance shoud be around 1800-2000 ohm...
Cheers,
C.
Sorry for double posting...
Just a thought, but would this sensor actually prevent the engine running? So long as you get a reading somewhere on the range I would have thought the engine would run.
How extensive was the rebuild? Complete?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Webb
When mine went it made the thing nearly un-driveable and if IIRC it did not start too easily at some points.
Fair play, real world experience trumps my ramblings every time.Quote:
Originally Posted by AlfaJack
Don't know for sure Steve, just had a thought I've read something on the forum once. The true is that the NTC on my engine wasn't giving any readings when measured the resistance. So I was thinking that if ECU does not receive some sort of signal from NTC, it won't allow engine to start. Just guessing there...Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Webb
Will let you all know once the problem is found (hopefuly solved too).
No, it wasn't a complete rebuild because this engine had only covered 68 k and didn't noticed any wear. But wasn't running for about 3 years and even if it had oil in and was turned by hand from time to time, checkings/measurings were taken for everything. So yet no need for a massive rebuild. Just changed all gaskets, belts and tensioners (incl accessories), wp, thermostat, etc. Also the block and the head have been checked by a specialised workshop and cleaned.
I wanted this engine to stay OEM for now and have it running good on that conditions. Still have so much to learn about Q4 engine so any upgrades at this time could very easely have meant for me just a deeper fog. I was affraid that if something wouldn't work properly at some point, I won't be albe to identify the faults too easy. Keeping it stock at least i have Technical Manuals at hand for trubleshooting. And still it seems that it's not enough for me...:help: Shared experience on the forum cannot be compared with anything! A good feeling indeed...
Cheers,
C.
Ahh, sounds like you are on the right track then if you are getting an open signal from the sensor, and Jacks real world experience of what the engine runs like when the sensor is kaput, added to the fact that the engine hasn't run for a while.
Fingers crossed that a new sensor will sort you out.
Thanks Steve but I'm affraid there is more left for me to have the engine running. The NTC sensor was just another little step through ignition/injection tons of ckekings (incl wirings, etc) Waiting for a new sensor now...