36mm with a torque wrench setting that no torque wrench bar can match!!:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinx
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36mm with a torque wrench setting that no torque wrench bar can match!!:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinx
yes, its 36mm. I had to grind off one mm of the outside diameter of a $50.00 socket to get it to fit the inside diameter on the hub to get it on the nut. Then I used a 2 meter hollow steel bar over a solid 3/4" breaker bar to remove the nut. I actually had to use a friend who is stronger than I to make this happen! I would estimate that we were putting about 600 ft/lb onto the nut!
JimN~
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimnielsen
That sounds about right:cry: I expect there is an expensive Special Alfa Tool for it though..
Get yaself a battery powered windy gun ;)
wrinx
Lol, or a battery powered IMPACT drill:tongue2:Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinx
Hi All.
Still don't have the new clutch yet... but I am struggling with the release bearing part numbers. On ePER it says that the release bearing is part # 46465174. But this is also the release bearing for the 147 which does not have a push clutch. Alfa Romeo here (in Australia) say that ePER is wrong and that the bearing should really be part number 46821337 - which is the same part number for another (newer Alfa) that also has a pull clutch like the 155 Q4.
Does anybody have any insight into this?
Thanks, JimN~
I guess, get them to order it, then take the old one along and compare, if its wrong, dont hand over any money, or if you have to pay upfront, get a refund as they would have badly advised you...
When I was removing the gearbox to get access to the clutch, I had trouble removing the box because there was still a bolt holding the clutch "dust guard" - It was bolt "C" in these pictures. Eventually I actually bent the guard in my efforts to get the gearbox off allowing me to see that there was a bolt still to be undone and also to get access to it.
The manual shows how to remove bolts A and B - but it just ignores the existence of bolt C altogether! My question is this.....
As you can see bolt C is behind the torque distributor and very close to the the center differential, is it possible to replace bolt C without first removing the center differential. Should it have been possible to remove bolt C with the clutch bellhousing bolts still fully tightened?
www.nielsen.org/alfa155Q4/cc1copy.jpg
www.nielsen.org/alfa155Q4/cc3copy.jpg
www.nielsen.org/alfa155Q4/cc2copy.jpg
Thanks, JimN
This also gave me trouble, in the end I was a bit heavy handed and the metal just tore I think - But I really can remember what I did now to get bolted back in - if djsly sees this he may be able to comment as his engine is in pieces too.
Well I waited 80 days for the racing clutch from OMP - but it hasn't happened. So I have had to buy a standard one! Now I am having a bit of a problem getting the gearbox bolted back up to the engine cant seem to get it to slide right in - - any tips or ideas??
JimN
How have you centred the clutch plate?
Bad luck about the OMP - any reason?
can you get someone to help you? let them move the crankshat a bit to help the splines align... also check if the clutchplate is well centered...Quote:
Originally Posted by jimnielsen
Well I have the clutch in now.... i didn't have the clutch plate aligned properly... anyway. I have read the "sticky" on gearbox oil, and I have 2 questions...
1. do you really use the dipstick hole to put in the new oil?? Its too small!
2. does it say in the owners manual the actual required amount of gear box oil ( in liters)?
3. does anyone have any recommendation on the exact specific gearbox oil to use - manufacture and product names please???
thanks, JimN..
I may even get this thing working this week! I Cant believe how difficult it is to put the starter motor back in!
Yes :biggrin:Quote:
Originally Posted by jimnielsen
I used a funnel.
...and you asked three questions ;)
wrinx
4L - that fills the gearbox and the centre diff.Quote:
Originally Posted by jimnielsen
1.4 - rear diff
From the manual:Quote:
Originally Posted by jimnielsen
Gearbox and Centre Differential:
Specified Classification:
API GL-4
Recommended:
Tutela ZC 80/S
Rear Differential
Specified Classification:
API GL-5
SAE 8W/90
Recommended:
Tutela W90/M-DA
I would just use any well known brand that meets the requirements - can't go far wrong :)
'ringman is the expert on doing this, learnt when his motor failed a couple of times :tapedshut:Quote:
Originally Posted by jimnielsen
you might as well put a GL-5 in the gearbox, iof it's the correct viscosity.... superior characteristics...
Just a summary about changing the 155 Q4 clutch on a garage floor.
Yes, it can be done. it took me a LONG time to get the gearbox out by myself, as I had no idea about how to do it.
With a skilled helper (also with no 155 specific knowledge) we put the clutch in, gearbox on and did the 1000 other little things that need doing to reassemble the car in about 8 hours.
I think I could do the job with a helper now in a weekend - but there'd be no time for beers.
Also, as an aside, I used a clutch for a Lancia Delta EVO II. The clutch plate is about 5mm bigger in diameter.
JimN
glad to see it's sorted :) did you drive it now? i know you're not supposed to but....