Last time I looked, coil packs were cheap enough so unless you've swapped them recently, I'd get them done.
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Last time I looked, coil packs were cheap enough so unless you've swapped them recently, I'd get them done.
Exactly my thinking, just looking at some now :lol:
Could also be leads and grounds but for the sake of Ģ12 each (ebay) it's worth ruling them out totally.
I've got a MAP sensor in stock somewhere but have read that the pipe to the sensor can become blocked or split, so that needs checking.
Beauty of the diag is that you can replace one item and then test for errors to see if clears the fault, rather than just replacing bits and hoping....I like it!
wrinx
Mmm...the plot thickens. The Startrek developer thinks I've got more serious problems with the EEPROM and EPROM. The latter can be explained by the Squadra but not the EEPROM :?
Perhaps an ECU fault, I don't know.
wrinx
Getting to check the leads etc on the coils is going to be the major pain, so if you are going to do that, you may as well swap them out.
The small bore air pipe comes into the MAP sensor from underneath so you can't easily see if there is a problem there. If you are still running the original type pipe, I'd suggest swapping it out for a silicon one. They stay in place much better.
Just ordered the cables to be able to connect up the laptop to the car, so I can check all these things as well.
Oh and good luck with the ecu issues.
Exactly my thinking, coil packs bought for Ģ12 each and if I've got to do down *there* (under the intake!) I'm not coming back out until it's all new...might event replace the leads too!
All looked good and iirc it's silicon.
Yeah, good luck with that...you may find out more than you want to! :lol:
...sometimes, too much information is a bad thing :lol:
wrinx
Well, seeing as the Q4 is undergoing something of an overhaul at the moment, its probably best I find out everything thats wrong with it.
Ok...update:
I've repaired the grounds in the ECU and replaced the MAP sensor and IAV, but it's still not starting properly; and what's worse, it's still giving exactly the same errors as before!
Unplugging the IAV when running doesn't seem to make much difference but it's a pig to idle when started without it.
Similarly, unplugging the MAP sensor causes problems.
I'm loathe to start throwing bits at it in the hope of a cure if one is causing all the problems....is it perhaps an ECU problem after all?
I need to test power and grounds to the various bits, but it's still throwing up coil 2 error, EEPROM, EPROM, VAE/IAV, MAP sensor and TPS :(
I'll be replacing the coil pack at some point, but the inlet has to come of and I'm really not motivated to do that!
wrinx
may be some point, but in my previous v6 155, i had almost all of Your symptoms
i've even exchanged ECU so already have two spare ones,
ecu errors, ignition problems, cutting ignition on iddle, injector errors (replaced them also)
and guess what.... removed coil pack (very easy access) and underneath coil pack case was totally broken.
Replaced coil pack and no problems any more
so previously replaced injectors, spark plugs, twice ECU, spark cables, rpm sensor etc etc made quite big bill, and coil pack was only 1/10 of total price of this replacement
not to mention the stress and well-being that the engine is not working properly...
so my suggestion is that You will try with coilpacks as a start, not as last bit :)
regards
w
If it is a problem with the coil, might it be possible that the HV generated by the coil is not being contained within the coilpack and causing the other spurious errors?
Have you been getting more than the usual static shocks from the car? :hyper:
Try turning the camhsaft sensor "case", as I remember, youīre not with the std cams.
And the cam sensor position, has to be in a certain window.
You're correct, I've got a C&B inlet cam, but the car backfired and was difficult to start before this was fitted.
wrinx
Anyway, try with the cam sensor case. May be it was rotated before.
Don't think so, it looks to be lined up in the correct position but I guess a play might be worthwhile :)
wrinx
Were all your problems solved regarding this or still the same?
I have this issue now on one of my cars, have checked all cables and wiring, new spark-plugs, measured and checked the leads.
Still back-firing when starting and more likely starts when I stop cranking..?
grateful for any tips or info regarding this..
Still the same on mine but I have other problems to solve before I can confirm anything.
These include coil packs and the aforementioned wiring.
wrinx
Starting just as it stops cranking, and popping and banging on start up sounds like the discussion we had a couple of months ago on dodgy cam sensors.
I think I mentioned I changed the plug on mine as it had bad connections.
Symptoms sound like they were similar.
Yes I have read your previous discussion thoroughly.
I have rebuilt this engine myself during the summer, before it started just perfect but was leaking oil (hence the rebuild) when in parts everything was of course cleaned that was oily but this sensor was not one of the oily or dirty bits, so no excessive cleaning with though chemicals or anything was used on that one..
I have also changed to my other cars cam-phase sensor (which runs and starts very well but as it is my summer car sits in the garage for the moment) and the problem still exists I donīt see that the sensor is the problem
all the connections look fine and the cables as well, the spark plugs are new leads worked fine before the rebuild and the engine runs smooth and fine after the popping and banging (and I stop cranking) starts her up.
Getting desperate as I need to rely on this car and I suppose the battery will take itīs toll after a while from all the cranking? anything else that may take damage of this?
Hello guys, I am afraid I have stuck on this problem still..
Need your help now!!
I start from the beginning, due to many oil leaks and finally a blown headgasket I completely (standard-)rebuilt my engine this summer with new gaskets and sealing all the way, new piston rings and bearings, completely renovated head (by a enginerebuild-company, not by me), renovated the injectors with new filters and so on (by a company who does these things, not myself), new sparkplugs (BP6ET, are these right/Ok?) you get the point no expenses spared, altough keeping it standard as I intend to use it as my daily driver. now to the problem:
After the rebuild the car backfired when try to start and started when I stopped the cranking in the beginning, I have doublechecked all connections and cables that I can think of, exchanged the camshaft-phase-sensor, tried with the crank-position-sensor tried with the starter motor, tried changing the ignition module and the ignition-coil packs and nothing has even made a difference, I have doublechecked the cambelt fitting
Now I am left with 2 non-working cars, the black one is stripped to take parts from to try on the red one to get it running, as the other one anyway stands in the garage during winter no biggie..
I have also left the car in desperation to a local "Alfa-specialist" (that actually knew what car this is, he runs a dyno-shop with usual customers ferraris and lamborghini and many alfa) to adjust the timing and look at the start-problem, he did the same tests as I have done and three weeks later he calls me and says he wonīt continue as he is overbooked and I have to come and get the car, when I come to get it he says "thatīll be 1100 EUR", the car still wont start and it is exactly the same as when I left it there, although I now have new earth/ground cables between the battery and the chassis and engine to chassis as he thought it could be "earth/ground-problems"..
my wallet are now much lighter but the same problems still and have escalated into now not starting at all with the ignitionkey, runs well if you tow it and put in gear (donīt know the english word, jumpstart? no thats with cables)..
the car is fitted with an immobilizer system, can this be causing the problems somehow, during the dis-/reassembly the chassis only stood outside my work, nothing changed there.
another info is before the rebuild the immo-system could come off during a drive and the red indication light came on and a long (2min) beep could be heard and sometimes shut down and sometime left on until I parked the car and then stopped a minute after stop, but the car could also die during running and then be a bit cranky to get started again but not backfiring like now.
any ideas would be greatly appreciated
Solved the back-firing issues I have had for some time now, It all was the hole way a "broken" misfiring ignition lead for the 3rd cylinder.. You would think that a workshop that charge you 1100 Euro would have already checked those =P
now all is well
Merry Christmas to you all..
I've just read through all that David, its pretty despicable behaviour from a specialist who supposedly knows what they are doing.
I suppose they have charged you for the time of one of their mechanics, but if I ran the company I wouldn't have the gall to charge a customer that much if I hadn't fixed the problem.
I guess you won't be going back there again will you.