why aren?t you using a baffled sump - would think that it is a must have when racing?
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why aren?t you using a baffled sump - would think that it is a must have when racing?
The sump already has 'some' baffles.. but i am open to suggestion - does anyone have a design ready to go?
i want one too
Didn't someone post pics of their home made baffled sump???
wrinx
yep, it was ARJunior ( I believe ) but he only had two pics, and I could not see, from those pictures at least how it would help.
Black&Red looks great Jim!
can this one be of any help?
http://www.seight.com/baffle.html
A baffled sump to suit this engine should have one way trap doors inplace of the little upstands that are spot welded to the lower most sump cover reaching up onto the alloy casting with it's dividing partitions. One way in as much as to allow oil to flow towards the pickup easily but not so easily in the other direction. A nice lid with oil drain louvres would be good too. Keep oil levels generous and your good to go. Top, neat job Jim :biggrin:
Nik
Does anybody REALLY know how much the weight on the horizontal bar in this picture is supposed to be? I know that it has to be 100mm along... but if i knew the exact weight I could make one of these devices.... currently I have the belt tensioned so that you can turn the long section through 90 degrees with out too much effort...
More progress.. today I put on the center differential, alternator, power steering pump etc. I have removed the aircon compressor and moved the power steering pump down to the lower position. It took me a while to work this out, but if you do that.. you have to remove power steering pump pulley and turn it over to get the pulley to be in-line with the drive belt slot on the crankshaft!
I have two small problems..
a. in the pic that show how the center diff. bolts to the base of the sump, I want to be sure that I have the spacers (that are on the sump side) up the correct way with the 'hat' part of the spacer against the base of the sump? otherwise the plate will not sit flat. Have I done this right?
b. I have a 'part' left over.. it looks like mounting hardware to connect the center diff or gearbox, but I can't seem to find a place for it. Where does it go?
jimn~
Here's a picture of that leftover part:
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/3605/p5100218.th.jpg
Don't know about that spacer though...
Thanks a million Kessu.. I can also see the answer to the spacer question from your picture.. they are in the same way that I have them!
Thanks.. jim.
Thanks for the updates. I would just love to do something like this on mine.
I have another question...
I need to take the engine as its now assembled, off the engine stand so that I can put the flywheel, clutch and gearbox back on.. Hmm..
what is the standard method for doing this. Its big and heavy and I can't get the engine crane close enough to the engine stand because their legs interfere with each other.
I am planning on using a block and tackle to lift the whole thing (engine stand and all) high enough so that I can get the engine crane legs under the system and then take the weight with that...
.. then I can remove the engine crane from the rear - but what then? do I put the whole thing up on a table or lower it down to the ground to put the gearbox (etc..) back on..
Hope the garage roof is strong! Any suggestions?
When I got to this stage with mine I used a block and tackle to lift if off the stand, then stood it on a pallet to do the work. Leave enough height to get thy flyhweel and clutch on, so either jack it up with a block of wood or leave the bell housing end slightly overhanging the pallet. Then you can get the gearbox on without having it all around again, plus you don't have to lift the gearbox too much - you can use a couple of trolley jacks. Makes life much easier!
And of course - only use a block and tackle if you have a suitable I beam or H beam!
Thanks, AJ - I used the 'block and tackle' wooden pallet and overhang method like you described. No problems..
Today I put on the rear water hose. I am not using a 'T' piece style one. Put on the new belt for the alternator - I am not using the water pump pulley. Also put on the flywheel, clutch and gearbox.
It is so beautifully simplified in this guise.
Where are you going to fill it from?
Where will I fill it from....on the first pic, on the left hand side, and the end of the (now silver) metal water pipe is a 2nd (currently open) connection - that will go direct to the standard coolant filler bottle. Its easy to purge the air with an electric pump, because its down low (on the radiator hose) and you can just run it by turning on the ignition, without having the car running.
jim ~
I am going to be using an additional knock sensor system. Where do you all think I should put the 2nd sensor... at (A) in the pic adjacent to the OEM sensor or at (B) where some other variants of this engine have it located..
thanks..
jim ~
Α
I'd go with B, then there's one in the head and one in the block.
Looking good Jim, nearly ready to put it back in, once you adjust that tensioner bearing to sit on the head more completly ;)
fixed the tensioner.. thanks Nik... Put engine in.. Its quite easy with a hoist. I was going to use a large hydraulic lift to put the engine back in, but i decided that I didn't want to have it that high in the air unsupported. I have to get a better method of dealing with that back mounting, however...
Progress has been slow.. even small things seem to take forever.. perhaps it just Winter...
Anyway, I have started work on the exhaust. I am using 3" tubing.. its surprising how much bigger it seems than 2.5" tubing. The bends need a lot more space than before. I am going to make it 3" back to the location where the cats used to be. I am also going to ceramic coat this section as it runs close to lots of 'stuff'.
I have moved the coils and the pierberg valve to the side. Can someone check the coils pic and see if I have the right layout for the sparkplug leads. I have put some numbers on the picture where I understand that the particular cylinder has to connect.. is this right?
also.. with the pierberg valve.. is this connected the correct way round - where the small cutout on the base of the connector is aligned with the cutout in the connector its self?
also.. does it really matter which rubber hose goes to which side of the turbo (on the pierberg valve...)
thanks, jim..
This should help:
http://www.performance-bg.org/forum/...erburg_573.jpg
what is this {in the cycle}?
And why did not you move the ignition modules next to the ignition coils? It will be easier to reach the modules
Nick - its a temperature probe for the inlet manifold air temp display in the dashboard. I am going to use two other sensors connected to the data logger - one before the intercooler and one in the inlet manifold. The one in the pic is a 'third' so I can keep an eye on the inlet temp as I am driving..
I didnt move the ignition modules as it requires a bit too much cabling :)
ps.. do you have any pics of the coils with the cables still attached so I can check I have put them in right?
cheers, jim ~
not me, sorry.
Finished the exhaust (finally..) Its a lot harder to make it fit in 3" tube than it looks. In the end, I think that I will have at least as much ground clearance as before!
Trial fit of radiator.. I have already modified the few things that I needed 'adjust' to fit this monster in.. Tomorrow I am going to look at where the electric water pump can be sited..
cheers, jimn ~
It is a bit on the large side!
Are you sure :DQuote:
Originally Posted by AlfaJack
I want to read about the results of this big thingie :eek:
Greetings,
Marc
Nice down pipe fabrication Jim, your Tig welder / ing ? Loving all those sensors.
No, I had a friend TIG weld the pipes together. I put in the sensor 'bungs' with my MIG welder. To make the exhaust I actually tack welded them in place with my MIG - then when I was happy with the whole 'fit' of the system - took it back off the car and had it TIG welded..
Now I have fitted the electric water pump - managed to do this ok with out the need to buy other radiator hoses...You simply 'suspend' the pump in the lower radiator hose - that provides the pump motor with nice vibration insulation.
Put on the panel that holds the lights etc - see that I have had to make a small cutout in that panel so that the top of the radiator can poke through.. I could also simply have cut the top off the radiator and TIG welded up the hole...
and see... the radiator DOES fit! I think it will keep the car much cooler..
in one of the pics there is a picture of a thermocouple that was fitted 'standard' to my car. I don't believe that it is connected to the ECU..do you think I can simply leave it out?
cheers jimn~
You can leave the thermocouple off. There is no oem connection to the ecu. But You can can use it for monitoring the exhaust gas temperature during remaping for example.
That sensor looks like the overheat sensor for the cat. It just switches the dash light on.
well, thats it! Its 'finished' - well at least enough for an initial test. The intercooler is not in place yet, nor its piping or the connection of the air outlet from the turbo. But its ready for its first test - Tomorrow!
go easy for the first test and good luck.
Well done, hope all goes according to plan!
wrinx
If you don't make a first start video, I must kill you! :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
Camera is already setup, beer is in the fridge. No Start = No beer.
Well, after a couple of false starts - a fuel leak, problems priming the oil pump, a bit of a coolant leak at the radiator, fast idle because I had forgotten that I hadn't connected the aux idle air supply valve.. but anyway at the first opportunity - then engine fired up and ran. But I have a problem or two.
a. mixtures are too lean, even for idle and revving to 3000 rpm on the hoist about 15 - 16:1. Will add some more fuel to the table tomorrow..
b. there seems to be a problem with the basic engine timing. I have been very careful to get the belt positioned correctly on the crank pulley, and on the cams. There are no belt covers so its VERY easy to see where the timing is at. However.. the car idles at 900 RPM on the 2nd timing mark (instead of the first) - AND the longer mark on the plastic timing cover is approx 5 degrees inside the notch on the very front pulley?? what gives. I can hear some low level pinging from this situation.
Could i have mal adjusted the basic timing in some way?
The cam wheels have been removed from the cams and replaced.. there is a bit of 'slack' in their positions. Could this account for the timing issue?
Any other suggestions? What about the cam timing sensor? I tried to put it back just like it was?