I've got this horrible Toad in my car....don't suppose anyone has ever removed an alarm/immo have they?
Any tips before I delve in?
wrinx
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I've got this horrible Toad in my car....don't suppose anyone has ever removed an alarm/immo have they?
Any tips before I delve in?
wrinx
Just removed one (immobilizer) from our daily driver :thumbsup:
Cars starts much quicker and better :clap:
My approache:
Opened up the fusebox area and followed the wireing from the box through the car. The manual wasn't much of a help :wacko:
When all the wires where accounted for I restored the original connections and reconnected the wires that where cut.
- The relais wireing for the starter and fuel pump restored.
- reconnect wires from the ignition in the steering column.
- remove power feed and couple of ground wires.
- removed keypad.
- removed immobilizer box.
Follow the wires back from the control box, only work on one wire at a time, don't use scotch lok connectors, don't solder the joints back together (the solder/wire interface can cause the wire to break due to vibrations) use a good quality joining crimp and tool.Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinx
And take your time.
Thanks guys...so what's considered a good quality joining crimp?
I would have just soldered and covered with heat shrink :oops:
wrinx
Something like these Butt connectors (stop sniggering at the back)
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.u.../59/category/8
You really need a crimping tool to close them up properly though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Webb
i can argue with that :)
in my opinion soldering is much better,
i'm always soldering cables in the car, did it in cars -> many times, also repaired many "butt" connectors that after time had connection problems.
so basically i'm soldering fun :)
but You an always connect two techniques, first insert butt connector on cables, solder them and then close up connector using appropriate tool :D
regards
w
If you solder it properly, not "glueing", it's no problem at all.
I have done it this way on a couple of cars and never experienced any problems.
Though I wouldn't solder something on the loom that's connected to the engine, this will have movement.
The problem a lot of people have when using crimps is that they don't use the correct crimping tool. They aren't cheap and the close the crimp around the wire completely. Also you need to use the correct sized crimp rather than just the one you've got left kicking around the bottom of the toolbox.
If you are going to solder I would recommend that you tape up the wire around the solder joint so the wire can't move in relation to joint.
Thanks all, I think as long as I'm generous with the heat sleeve and allow enough eacah side of the joint it should support the joint and protect the wires if they've been soldered...so I'll carry on as planned :)
Really looking forward to this :roll:
wrinx
Quick question...I'm unable to use the car at the moment because the indicator are on all the time!
Do I need to chase for mouldy connectors or is this likely to be the alarm at fault?
wrinx
Can only be the alarm or the indicator relay is stuck
Thanks, was planning to rip out the hazard switch too but I'll focus on those.
wrinx
Just make sure you have got some of this on order, just in case you short something out.
Missed your post... :lol:
Where am I likely to find an aftermarket alarm on a 155, I think the original is in the nearside wheelarch on a RHD car but not sure about the Q4. Where's yours...?
I have a theory that my ill-fitting windscreen surround in linked to the alarm problems, allowing water to get into the system so am fixing that first :roll:
wrinx
The hobbyists are not likely to buy a 50 Euro crimping tool to crimp ferrules, and would end up with the rubbish Auto shops sell. I have seen too many dry connections, If I find these crimpers on a ship they go overboard. I would also rather solder the join.