wheel alignment data

[jimnielsen]

Hi, I am taking the Q4 to have a front wheel alignment tomorrow. In the technical manuals here on the website it says that front toe should be ....

-0.26 +/- 1

But is this degrees or mm ?? Does anyone have any better Idea as to what to set front toe to? Any input before tomorrow morning (my time ..) greatly appreciated.


The car is getting its first hit out at a race track - Its Phillip Island where they hold a round of the Moto GP series.

thanks, Jim N

[cuore_sportivo_155]

excited in your place :) don't forget to post your experiences :)

[jimnielsen]

I took the Q4 to a local wheel alignment place that has modern equipment. Here is a printout of the data. Basically we just removed most of the toe in - 6 mm seems too much to me.

JimN

[arjunior45]

Toe at OEM data gives you just a havier steering and I believe a better behaviour at a race track, don't you?

But what about your Camber and Caster degrees? Certenly will consum less tyres {in an everyday car perhaps} but in a race track?

I went at 2 40" degrees for the Caster and 3 for the Camber and handle better, takes the corner better.

Any way, waiting for your comments from the race {concerning handling of coarse}.

'bocca lupo'

Nick

[AlfaJack]

Nick, what did you use to adjust the camber - special bolts?

On a 155, adjustment is very limited - just the tracking can be changed I think?

[arjunior45]

Nick, what did you use to adjust the camber - special bolts?



Thats right Jack, I used 'camber bolts' and wider holes {one the left side}.

[AlfaJack]

Thanks Nick. I guess there may not be much to show but if you have any pics of the setup I would be interested.

[arjunior45]

Thanks Nick. I guess there may not be much to show but if you have any pics of the setup I would be interested.

as soon as possible {when I'll replace the tires} I'll post some photo.

[jimnielsen]

Thats right Jack, I used 'camber bolts' and wider holes {one the left side}.

..Hey Arjunior, where did you get the camber bolts? And also how did you make the caster adjustments.

I would like to us 3 degrees neg camber and 2.5 degrees castor, but I don't have any bolts yet. Also.. what measurement are you using for "toe" ??

Thanks, JimN

[cuore_sportivo_155]

by moving the front subframe forward???? that would change the castor, also lowering would....

[arjunior45]

..Hey Arjunior, where did you get the camber bolts? And also how did you make the caster adjustments.

I would like to us 3 degrees neg camber and 2.5 degrees castor, but I don't have any bolts yet. Also.. what measurement are you using for "toe" ??

Thanks, JimN

for the caster degrees I've just replace the 'crossrail' {'bridge'} with a 'new' {used} one and from 40" right and 1 40" left I've got the 2 40" both sides. The measurments in the old 'bridge' {where the bolts go - not the camber bolts obviously} differs for just 40mm {on the right side} from the new one but gave me this difference in caster! I ought to have checked the 'ends' too but there were not available at the moment

with the camber bolts {cost 45 Euro each in any tuning hardware store, here in Greece} you can adjust up to 1 deggree the camber on each side. Mine were off more than 1 degree so I enlarge the holes too. For these bolts you can ask those with the aligment instruments to find you a couple. Any way, almost everyone who race here in Greece use these bolts.
You can not enlarge the upper {or the lower} holes too much and the maximum gives you 30" from each hole. Combine upper and lower holes enlargment {and camber bolts} and you can adjust the camber to 3 degrees easily.

for the toe I went to the OEM 0.26 but I'm going to test other settings too. With this toe, steering wheel returns to 'straight' possition faster than before and in low speed {in the city} the wheels respond better and faster in cornering. Hope you can understand what I'm reffering too.

cheers

Nick

[arjunior45]

by moving the front subframe forward???? that would change the castor, also lowering would....

you are almost right!!! my front subframe {crossrail - bridge} was out for just 40mm in one side and just in one of the four holes!!!
Replacing it with a new {used} one solve the caster problem.

My car is not lower than normal though with custom made shocks

cheers

Nick

[arjunior45]

Thanks Nick. I guess there may not be much to show but if you have any pics of the setup I would be interested.

you are right about not showing much with a photo. Yesterday I gave a look under the car and I noticed that camber bolts looks like the OEM one!
As for the enlarged holes, when we find the proper position for the bolts {on shock absorber's body} we solder - with points - the washers of the bolts. So, nothing is noticeable from the exterior. Just a couple of soldering points.

See pict for how we 'enlarged' the upper and lower hole on shock absorber's body. Hope this will help.

Nick

[AlfaJack]

Thanks Nick!

[cuore_sportivo_155]

you are right about not showing much with a photo. Yesterday I gave a look under the car and I noticed that camber bolts looks like the OEM one!
As for the enlarged holes, when we find the proper position for the bolts {on shock absorber's body} we solder - with points - the washers of the bolts. So, nothing is noticeable from the exterior. Just a couple of soldering points.

See pict for how we 'enlarged' the upper and lower hole on shock absorber's body. Hope this will help.

Nick

my coilover kit came standard like that... FK konigsport