When the engine is out, what should you replace/upgrade?

[#84]

I've been told that this is what you should replace when the engine is out, since it is a nightmare to do it otherwise if they break:

- Knock sensor
- Ignition coils

I consider upgraded head gasket and head bolts (1,5 bar boost / 325 hp), but have no good motivation since I haven't had any problems with them. Pistons will be replaced, but what about connecting rods?

Anything else?

[jNk]

Last year when the clutch was changed we planned to take the engine out, but the the guys at the workshop (?) has done the clutch change without the engine work, so it was an easier job in the end :)
Nevetherless they still removed and sent the steering rack to a refurbish company and completely dismantled the transmission and central diff. Bear in mind the guy who done the later is a transmission expert, our Q4 requires a veteran for that :D

[#84]

Ooooh. That was an advice that really took the breath out of me ... Mine has done just under 100.000 km, so I suppose it is kind of low mileage, it has done two transmission oil changes and been standing since January 2009. 5:th gear has been changed as well once, for a longer one. But I am curious, what did steering rack and transmission components look like? Were they worn? Did it improve feeling, sound/noise, or anything after the overhaul? In any case, it are quite big jobs to do - all respect to your workshop!

[jNk]

The steering rack was leaking oil since years, very small amount but still leaking and I had to refill the steering servo oil from time to time but otherwise it was ok. During the refurbish they changed all the bits and peaces apart from the original housing and rack. Since there wasnt any big knocking sound issue before I do not feel or hear any major improvement, apart from that I dont have to refill the servo oil :)

The transmission got a humming noise whenever the car was in gear and I did not accelerated so we wanted check that. During the oil change we saw too many metal pieces in the worn oil, which isnt the best thing so the oil change quickly expanded to a transmission inspection after dismantling. Since our transmission is built in with the central diff it was as pretty big job and if I remember correctly some bearings and maybe a gear had to change. It works much quieter now!

All in all the car was in the workshop for almost a month, in the "project-car" garage, so it wont interfere the daily jobs and the guys who worked on it were given a bottle of fine whiskey, each 'cause it was indeed a big project :D

[Cantoro]

Ooooh. That informative review of SnoreRX (https://www.sfgate.com/market/article/snorerx-review-17335921.php) was an advice that really took the breath out of me ... Mine has done just under 100.000 km, so I suppose it is kind of low mileage, it has done two transmission oil changes and been standing since January 2009. 5:th gear has been changed as well once, for a longer one. But I am curious, what did steering rack and transmission components look like? Were they worn? Did it improve feeling, sound/noise, or anything after the overhaul? In any case, it are quite big jobs to do - all respect to your workshop!

I can see why the guys were rewarded with a bottle of fine whiskey. Stuff like that almost falls under the labor of love category.

[#84]

Sometimes the most important you can do to yourself is to ask yourself the right questions. So, with that said, I discovered one VERY important component that more or less had failed completely without any visible or audible signs. One of the balance shaft (countershafts) bearings. We had started re-assembly of the engine and since I had ordered all gaskets/rotary sealings I decided to remove the balancer shafts as well, even though there was no direct need. In the rear end there is a rubber coated steel plug sealing of the balancer shaft bore. When removing one of them, the fluid that came out was more water like than oil like and the bearing (which is rubber sealed in the outer face) sounded like a pepper mill while rotating it slowly with my fingers.

So, these bearing are very cheap and the consequence if any of them seizes might be disastrous, so I recommend anyone doing a serious overhaul to replace them.

How to remove the rubber coated steel plug? Punch a hole in the middle with a sharp object and then drive a sheet metal, or wood, screw 5 mm in through it. Use a carpenter hammer, or similar, to pull out the screw - and the plug with it.

[wrinx]

Hose of death....the coolant hose at the back of the engine. Pain the RS to replace in situ and even then it'll leak!

wrinx

[#84]

Hmm, water leaks is the only problem I have not had .. but let's check