View Full Version : New rides entry: 1995 Alfa Romeo 155 Q4 Sport "widebody"
Steve Webb
06-01-18, 23:08
Steve Webb (http://forum.berlinasportivo.com/vbrides.php?do=owner&ownerid=3) 1995 Alfa Romeo 155 Q4 Sport "widebody" (http://forum.berlinasportivo.com/vbrides.php?do=viewride&rideid=4)
My 155 GTA Stradale, project in progress...
http://forum.berlinasportivo.com/vbrides/photos/4/e252bfd90d83689eff5b4f8c4ab9be56.jpg
So finally I decide to make a thread for this my car into this forum :) .
I see a lot of fields about car and modifications, that I skip for now, but will update them also with other description information during progress in this thread.
I prefer chronological explanation of progress and here will post pictures and information about car and work on it.
The story for me with this car started from this forum and one advert several years ago. As I sad to a good friend of mine (big car enthusiast, with several alfas) then, sending him a picture with text "because blue is my favorite color ..." :D. And then after long discussion with ditlev with a lot of PMs, pictures on mail and thinking I decided, that really want this car to be mine. The car was really far from me (the car was in Denmark and I'm in Bulgaria) and there isn't easy way to see and hear it for real and such discussion was the way know more about the car. Good circumstance for me then was that look like there wasn't other serious buyer for initial period of advert and during our long discussion, then some appear and I have to make a decision and compare with him if I wanted the car.
The car was delivered by used cars dealer and the deal was actually made by truck driver with money in cash with him. And when the car was in Bulgaria I receive a call, that can go at used cars dealer place and see it for real for first time :).
This is from registration process
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The car have some modifications: tubular exhaust manifold (from Italy from what I remember, 38mm external diameter of piping), some part of exhaust made of stainless steel 63.5mm (2.5"), Forge dual piston BOV, short shifter, 16" Borbet Type E 7'5J ET35 with 215/40-16 tires, wheel spacers at front and 20mm I think at the back (at front I think was original one for widebody cars I think).
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(spark plug cover was available with car and now is installed)
The car also came with a lot of parts with it: Squadra Tuning chip, 4 used Compomotive TH2 17" with tires 215/35-17 (other wheels of the car) + 1 new wheel in the box, front wishbones, ball-joints, old exhaust manifold, intercooler, steel head gasket, AC control panel, board computer panel and others...
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Here is a pictures of the car with Compomotive TH2 wheels (from ditlev, I haven't used these wheels on the car yet):
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The car have nice leather interior:
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I think that this is enough for beginning :D (I may add or change some things in this post if remember something else needing mentioning here)
Steve Webb
08-01-18, 19:40
Hi kunev , thanks for posting your car up. Looks nice and clean. Love the TH2's as well.
Thanks Steve :).
In first post I reach the limit of maximum pictures per post, so continue with something that have to be there. In folder with papers and receipts for the car, that came with it, there is also a dyno graph and it show good result :)
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And after acquisition and coming in my hands I started and continue for some time with common stuffs - basically maintenance, changing and repairing some things. Not sure that remember everything (don't say that they are so many things either), so may change this post several times.
Oils, for engine I use Motul Sport 5W-50 Ester based lubricant (I want something more special and think that Motul ester oils are such) and for gearbox and rear differential use Motul 300 Gear 75W-90, which is also step up than normal gearbox oil. Balance shafts was "disabled" and its belt removed at changing of belts and pulleys. Ignition system was renewed - coils, plug wires and spark plugs
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For spark plugs I go for standard, copper Denso and decided to go one step colder for some increase in boost in the future... For this model are showed Denso W20EPB (equivalent NGK BP6ET) and I go for W22EPB (equivalent NGK BP7ET). Look like this engine (Lampredi's 2.0 16V turbo) is used with colder spark plugs (7 hear index on NGK) on some of the earlier version with distributor ignition from what I see.
Reverse gear lights wasn't working, which turned to be the sensor. The mechanic sad then that is different than what it was expected and have seen on italian cars from this period and also the position was different. Here it is:
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Front windshield crack (maybe was my fault during one washing of car...).
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First was ordered Saint Gobain, but the only one available was broken during transportation from Europe and then Pilkington was ordered, which arrive successfully. The installation guy sad that it is like armored :D, thicker than previous one (which was not original one I think, Saint Gobain).
One wheel bearing was replaces, rear from what I remember. Valve's cover gasket was replaced, because of leaking. Plug wires cover was installed (it was available) with one new thread fixed/newly made from what I remember also one such manipulation for timing belt cover (I have seen such issue on one Coupe 16VT, so I guess, that is not so uncommon for this engine). Windshield wipers was modern beam type and I change them to conventional one. Front scudetto/grille was tightly fixed and that is a major problem for 155 with its plastic pins from what I read.
Also bought some parts just in case or because was at good price - pair of cheap white Depo front indicators (one on the car is cracked, but haven't changed it yet), several sensors (intake air temperature (two I think), water temperature, low oil pressure...), track rod end, lambda probe... Common problem on 155 are outside door handles as you know and are difficult to find. All on the car are fine now, but because of this common issue I bought second hand handles to have, one time two right and after that two left one of which was modified to be stronger with adding of material.
So basically nothing special here. More interesting things in next posts :)
One picture of the car from first years of ownership, the quiet years let say :D
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And here are some of the more interesting let say things, which I bought from time to time:
Brand new OZ Racing Alleggerita HLT 16" 7J 4x100
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I bought these because was really an amazing offer, which I could not miss and also like very much light OZ wheels - Ultraleggera, Superleggera... and these are even lighter. Alleggerita are the lightest OZ wheels and the only one from them, which came with "Weight certificate" for each wheel (can be seen on above photos)!
Silverstone/Formula rear spoiler
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This spoiler I bought it, because was able to get it at good price and is a rare, original part, which will become more rare in the future I guess, so just to have it. My car is "Sport" modification and have the corresponding spoiler, so already have original rear spoiler and don't plan to use this for now...
Lancia Kappa 16V turbo intake manifold and fuel rail
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The best standard manifold for Lampredi's 16V turbo engine and very sought after item as many of you know. Have read with data, that original one with some porting can flow more than such unmodified, but straight runners of this are better design performance wise, so definitely good to have. At one point started to look for one, but turned out it is more sought after that I expected and this made me a little mad and want it even more :D. Generally when I have called on advert for such car for spares, the answer was "this was first thing, which I sold..". A friend of mine told me, that one guy have such for sale and I catch that chance.
As I reach the limit of 10 pictures per post will continue on another one :). Stay tuned...
Steve Webb
20-01-18, 18:46
I've got the same inlet manifold and fuel rail, I'm planning on getting it fitted in the near future and moving to a coil on plug setup at the same time.
Coil on plug (COP) is more modern and advance ignition system for sure, but original wasted spark is not bad at all and is capable enough for 400hp and even more on this engine from what I have read. But if is planed aftermarket ECU then this is the route in my opinion. With original ECU can be implemented coil on plug setup, but it will fire 2 coils/plugs at same time.
About installation of Kappa 16VT inlet manifold on our cars there is one "modification", which I really don't like - cutting of mounts for upper part of original manifold. And from what I read these original mounting points obstruct fitting of flange to engine head of Kappa manifold. I like performance modifications for sure and plan and do such on my cars, but also have one general rule - to be able to return to original state. So generally no cutting of metal, dashboard, interior trim ... if there isn't spare one.
I continue with some interesting parts, which I acquired:
Walbro GSS341 high pressure in-tank 255/h fuel pump
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A friend of mine was in USA for business trip and I use the moment and him :D to order more serious fuel pump from Walbro for my eventual future plans and also as our vehicles are now at age and their original (most likely) fuel pump also can be expected that they will not work as new and will not be so unusual to break at some moment. These model flow more at high fuel pressure compared to their normal, old 255l/h variants.
OZ Racing Ultraleggera 17" 7J ET37 4x100 Crystal Titanium
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Again wheels, but these are my favorite model and was bought to be put on the car for sure. I was a little unsure about going with 17" and some very low tires (because of very small wheel arches on this model as you know) and bad roads here and delayed this decision for some time... The Compomotive TH2 wheels, which came with the car as part of the deal are with tires 215/35-17 and I don't want to drive with such size here. So size in mind was 215/40-17 and to see how it will be...
Also other reason for bigger wheels is big brakes upgrade on which I'm really big fan :love-001: and it happen to be first real performance modification I make on my cars. I don't want to do the things in most popular and simple way and want to make something more unique. I have some brake calipers models in my mind already and looked for them from time to time (later I will have all of them and that will be seen here of course, but that is in let say in the future for moment for which I write). And I bought that of them to which I leaned most
Brembo 17Z 6 pistons monoblock brake calipers
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* The plastic bottle of 1.5l was just for comparison :D.
This model was originally used on early Porsche Cayenne V6s and VW Touareg with 330x32 discs and as its name suggest it was intended for 17" wheels. As my brake upgrade will be limited to 17" wheels :loco: and wanted something to be as big as can be put into 17" then this caliper model look as very good option to me :). This particular model is from Touareg I guess, because Porsche generally put its name on it and paint them in more eye catching color let say. The total piston's area of this model is not small at all - 34/36/38 = 3060mm2. That was concern for such brake upgrade. For example on calipers from 166 and on earlier GTA with 305mm discs and GTV V6 also I think area is 38/42 = 2520mm2.
Steve Webb
23-01-18, 18:31
Good point about the modification, but there are a number of things I dislike about the original manifold, the lack of access to the coils, lack of access to the injectors, the rubber joiners and the shape of it. When I install the new manifold, I doubt the old one will ever go back on, if it ever needs to, well I'm sure something can be fabricated for the mounting points.
The manifold means that you need to relocate the coils and a couple of other bits so I was thinking of moving to COP at the same time, however being sensible it might be best to just get new standard coils (cheap) whilst I move things about.
Yes, Kappa's manifold have more than one benefit than our original one and generally no useful reason to return once done except going for originality.
Then other brake calipers, which I check from time to time appear at good price and I decided to buy them also :D.
Brembo 18Z monoblock brake calipers
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17Z and 18Z are very similar calipers, used on same cars and wheel hubs basically. The difference between them is pistons size, length of mounting "ears" and pads size. Total piston area of 18Z is smaller - 30/34/38 (2750mm2), so smaller increase from stock compared to 17Z and that was a good reason to bought them. 18Z are used originally with 350x34mm discs on Audi Q7, Porsche Cayenne and VW Touareg. Basically almost the same body and overall size calipers are spaced differently to work with different size discs (330 and 350 mm) on same cars.
And here are them side by side (18Z are on the left):
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Both calipers are popular as upgrade in VAG community mainly, because they can be fitted directly to the hub on many vehicles.
Pads are interchangeable between them, so 17Z pads can be used on 18Z and vice versa (both pair calipers was with 18Z pads). 18Z pads are bigger and here is some comparison
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To not occur overhang with higher 18Z pads, disc should have high working area.
And as a final for introduction of 17Z and 18Z calipers will post some funny pictures from internet :D
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As I then have two model calipers, the plan was to be checked with both and to be made adapters for both...
I remember, that have installed Squadra tuning chip at some point before front brake upgrade and there was noticeable improvement of performance :thumb:.
And now front brake upgrade implementation. The plan was going with OZ Ultraleggera 17" wheels to happen at same time as brake upgrade. Here is one visual check with Brembo 18Z :)
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This process was executed by one one Bulgarian company specialized in fabricating of custom parts - NS Custom Parts. Both caliper pairs and wheels was given to them and they started with checks. They determined what discs parameters are needed for close installation and I found one, which are close enough. Both calipers was given for refreshing with sand blasting and painting with custom paint. I order brake discs and pads for 17Z calipers. 4 new Hankook Ventus V12 Evo2 215/40-R17 tyres was bought. With such size, there isn't many options unfortunately.
Unfortunately was seen that 18Z calipers can not be installed on my car with 17" wheels and such discs. Mounting holes touch wheel hub.
And here is some pictures from fabrication company with 3 bolts, not completely ready :D
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And some
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On these pictures wheels are without center caps, but I have them, just have removed them before giving the wheel to guys :)
And as a resume of front brake setup:
- Brembo 17Z calipers;
- EBC yellowstuff pads for 17Z calipers;
- EBC standard 330x32 brake discs for Volvo S60 R, V70 R on which was made grooves;
- custom steel adapters for calipers - they sad that there isn't enough material with this design for strong fit with aluminum one;
- custom made braided brake lines;
- 12mm aluminum hub centric spacers front and rear and 2mm behind front disc - disc's offset is just a little smaller, than it have to;
- Motul RBF600 brake fluid.
That is some serious brake upgrade there kunev :clap:
Are you planing to do some trackdays and/or tune your engine to 400bhp+ 'cause that 6piston caliper screams for them :tongue2:
Thanks for the comment and interest jNk :)
Generally I have plans for the car, not accidentally it is named GTA Stradale :D . But will see what will happen, because plans are changed from time to time... :) Stay tuned, I still write for old things and haven't reached to current moment ;). But for sure the car have to be street.
Some more pictures of the car after front brake upgrade and OZ wheels
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And now ... more parts.
New rear torsen differential
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I saw advert for this differential in ebay from one guy in Austria I think and he even have 2 or 3 differentials from what I remember. The price was good and decided, that is good to buy one.
Later I also bought new rear differential housing and I think that was from same guy... The price was good and decided, that have to buy it. Don't have picture of it, but when do some will add it here.
Apexi AVC-R electronic boost controller
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From what I have read this boost controller is very good. Two settings and also one more when is off (then by wastegate spring only), boost by gear, by rpm with 500rpm increments and other settings. Yeah they are two, but I have two turbo cars. I bought first one for my GTV, then I don't have 155 yet I think. Then there was one at good price and decided to buy one more also
And again brake calipers - Brembo 8 pistons
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Here agains 18Z. These are used on RS4 B7, RS6 C5, Phaeton V10/W12, R8, Gallardo, Murcielago. These are the 3rd model which I consider for my front upgrade, but then I have suspicious about using it on 17" (which was my limit). I bought these after brake upgrade and If I have to do it again will use these. Total piston area is smaller than 17Z calipers - 38/42/38/42 = 2840mm2. 4 pads per caliper, radially mounting so more freedom for installation. Now my calipers are a little out of disc and for this mounting best fit will be with a little bigger than 330mm discs and also with 18Z pads, which are higher, but this I understand after I already bought the discs and pads and everything was ready...
The next on the list was suspension.
As you know not many options for our car. The car have Eibach springs so also option was to buy just dampers, but I wanted to try with complete kit, that should have matched dampers and springs. Intrax have kits for our model and are very good probably, but expensive. I decided to try H&R monotube coilovers for Alfa Romeo 155 2.5 V6. From what I have read it should fit, but have doubts how the rear will be ... Q4 is definitely heavier at the back and on the front V6 is not so light so maybe not so big difference. From looking at documentation Q4 rear springs are thicker than 2.5 V6 - 13.9 vs 12.4. Free length is given the same as 305mm. But H&R springs are generally stiff so it may work I thought ...
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I did not make pictures of the kit, because was well packed. But is like on second picture. From what I have read dampers are made by Bilstein to H&R spec and springs are H&R, but not 100% sure. So coilovers on front and separate dampers and springs at the back. Rear dampers are shorter than original from what I have seen on one kit for TS, so probably something like Bilstein B8, which are for bigger lowering, which sound normal considering 40mm lowering (B6 for standard ride height or up to 30mm).
But after installation the mechanic call me that at the back is not ok and the car go very low when put on the ground, like sit on the tires. And was used old Eibach springs at the back. Unfortunately I didn't saw how exactly was this on real or picture... I have make a thread about this issue on the forum.
On the front is ok as ride height, I think even higher than before. I definitely feel the difference from before and is much better, but dampers, which was removed was leaking. Rubbing at the back is improved, but if someone is the back it is an issue, so that will not be the end regarding back suspension...
Here is how is now at the back and with H&R springs from the kit was several cm down, top of the tire was not seen from what I remember to been told by mechanic
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And here are rates of springs in that kit, I have asked H&R and surprisingly receive an answer:
"29992-2 uses springs with 55N/mm front and 45N/mm rear.
Our coilovers are just available in one specification, not with any other spring rates."
More pictures of the all car in the next post
Then there was one big trip to some very interesting places and with some special activities :D
End destinations was Nürburgring Nordschleife and Spa-Francorchamps :driving-014:
The trip lasted 13 days and more than 4800km. The group was with 2 cars with Lampredi 2.0 16V turbo engines and more than 600hp in total ... mostly from other car have to mention :) .
Other destinations and places was Budapest; BMW Welt, Museum and factory in Munich; Audi museum and factory in Ingolstadt, Porsche museum in Stuttgart, Mercedes museum in Stuttgart, Bamberg, beer fest in Erlangen, Nurnberg, Maybach museum, Gyor in Hungary
And here is some pictures just with the car as the topic is about the car (will be difficult to limit myself to 10 images :D )
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Unfortunately don't have photos from driving on Spa.
Any track times from the Green Hell or Spa ?
My car was only twice on trackdays but seeing your pics I might considering to go this year again. :)
Haven't tried to measure times and haven't pushed the car too much as these was my first track drives and also have to return with that car back home, which is far from there. No official timing on both as driving is not with competition nature. Nordschleife is officially public road and on Spa have noise check/control.
On the ring you go to the track and then have to exit after one "lap", you can not drive multiple laps at once on public driving sessions as we was (there is trackdays where you can). Manufacturer measure full lap and people don't measure complete lap.
"During tourist driving sessions, the full main straight cannot be driven at speed due to the exit/entrance. These laps are usually timed "bridge to gantry", which is only 19.1 km (11.9 mi). The lap goes from the "bridge" to the "gantry" (currently carrying Audi sponsorship.)"
Spa is modern circuit with all the safety features and zones, Nordschleife is exactly the opposite, it's a little scary.
Recommend them for sure and want to go again, but this time better prepared as a car and personally :)
I continue to write in this original thread for that car.
I want to do something for the rear brakes also, but want to keep hand brake also so these calipers are prepared for that goal
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These are rear calipers used on latest 145,146 and other alfas from that time also. These particular one are from GTV I guess (not from Phase 1 as mine is not with such), because there was GTV inscription on them when I bought them. They are aluminum unlike these on 155 and are known as bolt-on upgrade for 155s in Bulgaria. There is reports for feel improvement and for hand brake also. Calipers was sandblasted, painted and rebuild.
My plan is to be used with bigger discs and custom bracket of course. For the choice of discs I filter the selection to two particular discs - one is 280x11 (Volvo C30 and others) and other is 290x11 (Toyota Avensis) mm. Haven't decided finally which one...
I haven't closed the chapter for rear suspension as I sad already in the thread and decided to try with some standard solution for which I read good responses here
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Intrax springs for 155 Q4. Intrax offer 5 models springs for 155 off the shelve! And one in particular for Q4, which are above ones - ALF1173. Only rear will be used. Something else, which bothers me about them is that is stated that they lower with 50mm, but from pictures of Brul(tm)'s car with same size of tyres rear look almost like mine with Eibach, so will see...
Steve Webb
27-04-18, 12:08
Never heard of that rear caliper upgrade, maybe the aluminium ones won't seize up quite so often as the regular ones.
I do know that Tarox (?) did a rear brake upgrade, larger disk with bracket for the standard caliper, but it seemed very expensive for what it was.
Very interesting on the upgraded rear brakes. Although mine got through the MOT as second time of trying I suspect on of my calipers is not working so well.
Do you have the part numbers for them at all?
Tarox offer such rear kit for many italian cars from same period and its expensive mostly because of two piece discs I guess. I don't know part number, but they are not so rare or special I think, although when I searched for such in advert for later 145/146 for spares I receive several answers that they are already sold :? (that was really a surprise for me - to have demand on rear calipers from 15-20 years old Italian cars!). I can check what is written on them, but you can quickly figure out the visual difference between them and earlier (will say) model rear calipers. Generally speaking look at Italian cars from late '90 - early '00 and not only alfas. I guess that this have to be some improvement from Fiat/Alfa Romeo from factory. I have read to be used on TS 155 here as direct replacement of original calipers. Initially my plan was to do the same and not go to custom route, but then decided that really want bigger discs at the back also. For now thats the plan and will see. Brake force regular have big influence for poor rear brakes and seized calipers. It blocks on old cars and will be checked also, because my rear brakes are not really working right now.
The new season for the car is not opened yet, but preparation of modifications for my "GTA Stradale" for the future haven't stopped at all :).
Pedders Suspension front and rear anti-roll bars for Alfa Romeo 155 Q4
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These are 28mm front and 24mm rear and Pedders Suspension Australia is the only manufacturer who offer such items for our cars. Who have read the forum for a while probably will know how these become available for our cars.
The idea for these really grew in my mind after driving on Spa and Nordschleife. Such items can not be seen on their website, but I contact Pedders Bendigo (for that particular office I have read in the forum) and luckily they still offer such items and these particular ones was already available there. Different sizes are also possible (I ask), but will have to be wait some time for preparation. They also mention that last time, when they sell such was to Latvia in 2015 and I guess that this is probably to someone on here. And choose sending on sea as cheapest option and after approximately 3 months they reach me. Have to mention that packaging was not the best for such heavy items and long trip around the world and there is marks on them. I have mention this to Pedders with pictures and they sad that will think about that and how can be improved. But generally they was very friendly and responsive. So if someone is interested in anti roll bars for his Q4 to know that they still offer such.
Steve Webb
04-05-18, 11:43
These are 28mm front and 24mm rear and Pedders Suspension Australia is the only manufacturer who offer such items for our cars. Who have read the forum for a while probably will know how these become available for our cars.
The idea for these really grew in my mind after driving on Spa and Nordschleife. Such items can not be seen on their website, but I contact Pedders Bendigo (for that particular office I have read in the forum) and luckily they still offer such items and these particular ones was already available there. Different sizes are also possible (I ask), but will have to be wait some time for preparation. They also mention that last time, when they sell such was to Latvia in 2015 and I guess that this is probably to someone on here. And choose sending on sea as cheapest option and after approximately 3 months they reach me. Have to mention that packaging was not the best for such heavy items and long trip around the world and there is marks on them. I have mention this to Pedders with pictures and they sad that will think about that and how can be improved. But generally they was very friendly and responsive. So if someone is interested in anti roll bars for his Q4 to know that they still offer such.
I remember speaking to Pedders as well, I think it was Jim Neilsen who originally got the ARB's made up, I did try to organise a group buy previously, but there wasn't enough interest and obviously shipping these is a lot harder than shipping the quickshif kit.
Good luck fitting the front, I seem to remember you need to drop the subframe to get it into place.
I thought to post a quick summary of the story of these bars in previous post from what I have read in the forum (I have try to find whatever I can in the forum about anti roll bars). So for the newest member.
Many years ago jimnielsen (Australia) have send his rear anti-roll bar to Pedders Bendigo (Australia) for making of thicker its version. After that na15575 (Greece) have send front anti-roll bar to them for preparing of thicker version and I guess he is the first one to have upgraded front and rear anti-roll bars on his car.
For the front is prepared something custom for perfect fit, but will write when it is at my hands...
And this post to not be just comments here is one great find, which I made a little accidentally.
Behr thermostat for 155 Q4
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New old stock, something which is not produced from some time now. It was staying at one local dealer of alfa romeo parts for more than 10 years for sure and maybe more than 20 :D
And also here is a new original OZ carbon center caps for my Ultralleggera
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I bought them just in case, but hope the current one, which are on the wheels to not disappear strangely.
And something, which I waited for some time now...
SuperPro bushes for Pedders 28mm front anti-roll bar
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As Pedders anti-roll bars don't come with anything in addition to bars itself I start to look for solution for bushes for front bar. I ask some companies who made polyurethane bushes for such custom order, but either no reply or answer that can not made it. But SuperPro were responsive and their European office sad that they can made such. They offer front anti roll bushes for alfa romeo 155 for standard sizes (22mm and 23mm) and also 27mm and 30mm, which I guess was made for Whiteline anti roll-bars, which was available in such sizes. So after one package was send to Asian office by mistake, new order was made to the factory and after a lot of waiting I receive the long awaited bushes. The Australian anti-roll bar will be complemented by Australian bushes :). From what I see they are modified 23mm version with enlarged holes for bar. At same time was ordered same type of bushes for a friend of mine with Fiat Coupe, who have bought Eibach anti roll bars at very good price, but the kit, which he receive wasn't complete, just the bars and he needed 26mm version.
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I guess and hope that bushes for front anti roll bar for Q4 are with same design and size as on other 155 and other Italian cars from same period...
And something else, which I mentioned in earlier post, but can not add its picture there because of limit of 10 pictures per post :)
New rear differential cover
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I bought it some time ago. The price was good. The delivery was near price to the price of it. So good to have it I think. Also have new rear torsen differential unit, which goes inside this and can be seen in earlier post.
Nice looking rear diff indeed, mine had to be rebuilt couple of years ago and its working like a brand new one since then :)
New, unused original Silverstone front splitter
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I accidentally saw a thread in another forum by wrinx where he mentioned that plan to put that on eBay's auction soon. Then I checked eBay for some time and decide to wrote him a private message here to write me when this happen and he wrote me. And not so surprisingly for me I win the auction :D :). He sad that he bought it from Alfa Romeo dealer some years ago. Probably the only one such new in the world, so something very rare that wanted to have :) . Some time ago I asked one dealer for original Alfa Romeo parts for this and some other parts and he answer that it was out of production, nothing unexpected. Some time ago I bought used Silverstone rear spoiler and now if I can find original lifting kit :roll: ...
I haven't wrote here from some time now, but as I have started it and wrote and show so many things I have to continue.
For the next upgrade I have waited a lot of time to be completed. The car was having some middle part of exhaust system build from 2.5"(63.5mm) stainless steel with sport cat I think, but was not complete job and old rear part have cracked and two back silencers have fallen on one drive, so I needed to take care on that. And a custom stainless steel exhaust system was arranged to be build by "JS-design" from my home town, which in my opinion is the best exhaust specialist in Bulgaria and not only. I have been many times in his workshop and have seen craftsmanship and beauty of his work. Here is a link to his fb page, where you can see his creations -> JS-design (https://www.facebook.com/JS-design-660759623990520/). During that period I have changed the plan twice from initial one at 63mm (2.5") or 70mm (2.75") with two silencers to reach the final implementation at 3" (76mm) from bend pipe just after the turbo to the end with one custom straight through muffler and double titanium exhaust tips at 3", to match the color of the car :8
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This exhaust system configuration was chosen to comply to the future plan for the car, which I have decided that want to start...
And from now on the project become really serious.
That is my approach on building 155 GTA Stradale nowadays and beginning of documenting it here :). The project will be executed by ICI Design, a well known tuning specialist here for Delta Integrale and alike models sharing same engines, drivetrain and not only.
Starting with the hearth of the car - the engine and in particular the bottom end of it.
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ZRP billet 4340 steel crankshaft for standard 90mm stroke
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That is a lightweight design with all counterweights, balanced to 1gr/cm with report included and many good manufacturing features.
JE Pistons asymmetrical 9:1 CR pistons from 2618 T6 high tensile forged aluminum
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As this have to be a modern build I decided to go with more up-to-date static compression ratio than standard one of 8:1. And expecting better fuel, power and thermal efficiency with it.
MaxSpeedingRods H-beam 4340 steel connecting rods
ARP2000 rod bolts (included with rods)
King Racing XP-series main bearings
King Racing XP-series connecting rod bearings
Custom engine girdle plate
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Steve Webb
14-10-19, 12:39
Just noticed in the Exhaust pics, but does your car have a tow bar installed?
There used to be one on mine but its been removed for a long time now.
No, at least since it is in my possession, but probably there was such at some point in the past...
I haven't updated since long time, so here is such about head and engine closing.
Cylinder head have been serviced by head specialist with new bronze valve guides and 3-angle valve seats job. It have been ported by ICI Design
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Valves have replaced with:
- Supertech black nitrided intake valves
- Supertech inconel exhaust valves
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- camshafts have been replaced with new intake and exhaust ones for Tipo 2.0 16V Sedicivalvole
- Athena racing MLS head gasket
- ARP M12 head studs
- adjustable cam wheels for fine tune of valve timing
- balance shafts have been removed
- 22mm width timing belt
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I haven't posted more information here recently, because of issue with forum, but as now is fixed I will continue.
So logically after engine came clutch and gearbox.
As the plan is for big increase of power and also general opinion is that gearbox is not so strong let say I start to think for options in advance.
And some time ago I bought Scara73 Gr.N gear kit consisting of 1-3 gears and main shaft
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These gears have wider tooth base than original, i.e. less number of teeth. Here is a comparison photos made by another guy, who have use that kit (nickname Stichl), which I have found. On picture below are showed original and Scara73 3rd gear wheels as original ones are on left.
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Also needle bearing (if that is correct name in English) on 3rd gear is different as can be seen from below picture where original one is on the right.
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Main shaft is thicker and also splines. Original one is at bottom on below picture.
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After some time I started thinking that will be better with 4rd and 5th gears also if possible and we contacted Scara73 again and they reply that it is possible to be "upgraded" that kit and there is options for 5th gear ratios only. And gears were ordered with 5th slightly taller and 4rd is approximately the same ratio no option there. At same time was ordered from them rigid 5-puck ceramic clutch disc with splines for thicker main shaft. And all gearbox's bearings was changed with new one to be as new.
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Gearbox casing also need to be reinforced. Originally there is one plate on one side of gearbox. Custom "spectacle plate" was made to prevent both shafts from splitting (below is not final state).
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Final drive is kept original one.
Steve Webb
29-04-20, 20:18
Looking good, can't wait to see pics as the project move along.
Hopefully the site will behave itself now and not fall over again anytime soon.
After gearbox power distribution continue with drivetrain.
Center differential was in perfect condition fortunately
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While driving on Spa and Nürburgring the car exhibit a lot of understeer and after that I start to think for some options for improvement. The purchase of front and rear anti-roll bars came mainly from these drivings. I have seen that Quaife offer torsen front differential for these cars I bought such.
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Original front differential is of open type. With that diff I expect improved handling, better transfer of power from front wheels to the road, strength and reliability as I have heard for cases of broken front diff on 4WD Italian cars of that type let say.
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Original rear differential is used again, which is of torsen type and to it have been changed two new bearings. I also have new rear torsen differential unit and main case for it, which will stay in storage, but hope to not reach a point that need to use them.
Generally almost all bearings on drivetrain was changed I think.
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Next will be the source of power - turbocharger and exhaust manifold on which is mounted.
As this is a modern build, then have to be used modern turbocharger. I haven't considered at all popular and easy to install options for upgrade from time when this and other models with same engine was more popular used cars let say like T3 or T34 variants from other cars like Cosworths for example or hybrids. The technology in general have moved on a lot in the last 10-15 years let say. Basically the choice came down to one turbocharger from two modern turbo series - Garrett G25-660 and Borg Warner EFR7163. Then G25 was newly released and there wasn't much real life info about them, but its data for given size look impressive. On the other side EFR7163 was available from some time and there is good reviews for its performance. After some research my choice fell on EFR7163 with T4 twin scroll 0.80A/R turbine housing with internal gate.
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That is best responsive version of it and with internal gate and integrated compressor recirculated valve, plumbing will be simplified and close to "like original" look. Here is a official information about that series of turbos -> EFR Technical Data (https://www.borgwarner.com/docs/default-source/iam/boosting-technologies/efr_technical_data.pdf)
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And one good explanation video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EIHQDw0mBV0
For mounting of that turbo was made custom tubular twin scroll manifold with as close as possible equal length runners .
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Twin scroll turbine housing and exhaust manifold have many benefits in low and mid rpms and that approach is used on many modern turbocharged vehicles.
Borg Warner EFR series are rich on features from the box, but for that build some of them will be replaced with upgraded items.
For EFR turbos with internal gate Borg Warner offer three wastegate actuators depending on intended boost - low, medium and high. By default turbochargers came with canister for medium boost. From what I have read even high boost canister is struggling to keep high boost levels, which these turbochargers are capable of. As the plan is to be run a lot of boost, then upgrade on this part is highly desirable and fortunately aftermarket industry have already something to offer.
And have been bought Turbosmart IWG75 twin port wastegate actuator for that particular turbo
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With twin port actuator, as the name suggest, air can be fed to both side of membrane and in that way can be achieved much higher boost level for same spring rate compared to single port. In that way can be run wider range of boost levels compared to single port. Also boost control is better and can be achieved faster boost response. And my goal is to be run at two widely spread boost level. This actuator is for 14psi base boost pressure with two springs inside I think, but that can be changed with different springs configuration.
Here will mention that I have a concept for tuning parts - generally they have to be ... black :D and/or silver/metal color.
That twin port wastegate actuator is perfectly matched with Turbosmart 4 port boost solenoid (on the left on below picture) for best boost control on internal gate turbo
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As a result from above, two standard EFR's features are out directly from the box, but that is the best way and cannot be ordered without them.
To keep turbo happy also will be installed Turbosmart inline oil filter on supply line.
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With more power came more heat and for that some improvements on cooling of different fluids have been introduced.
Direnza performance aluminium radiator
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That is a radiator for Fiat Coupe 20VT and they don't offer such for Q4, but they are very similar. It is 40mm thick and original one is around 25mm I think, but not sure. Look as a quality item, better than one Chinese for Q4, which can be seen on the net.
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It is much bigger than original one and ... black 🙂. It is approximately two and a half times bigger that original one. It will be seen as installed in some of next posts. With such big difference in size its position on car needs to be compromised and will be at angle and not directly frontal, but such installation have been used and look to be working (it is not optimal for sure).
Energie Racing Parts bar&plate intercooler
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On 155 with original bumper doesn't have much space for big front mount intercooler, which to be "hidden" behind it. Here basically the goal was to be found off the shelf item, which to be good compromise between its capacity, for sure shouldn’t be cut front bar and metal in general and as little as possible from the bumper. This intercooler is with core size of 650x235x90mm and from initial measurements and checks look to be good solution for what is desired.
Here also will mention about one type of cooling, which is a little different than above ones. As the car will be street, as the project name suggest :cool:, it will continue to have an air conditioner ... and this time it should work. I didn’t have the chance to see it working as when I bought the car the condenser was missing and there was some cut pipes going to it! So some work in that direction will be done also. It will make installation of intercooler and bigger coolant radiator even harder and will have impact on their efficiency and they to it also, but this is how it have to be done in my opinion.
Now some pictures from assembly work in the engine bay.
Front subframe have been cleaned and painted before installing it back.
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Some pictures from work on exhaust manifold
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Some more pictures related to engine assembly and not only
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Turbo installation and not only
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Downpipe have been wrapped, but exhaust manifold will stay exposed.
Aeroflow big cone air filter with length of 230mm is located at lower left on front of car with short, straight route to it.
Intercooler piping are custom made stainless steel as can be seen from photos.
The big increase in power require such of fuel flow.
I decided to go to route with additional surge tank. Pump in the standard fuel tank will feed small surge tank, from which external fuel pump will draw. And as they say, one picture speak more than hundred words, so here is one simple diagram, which I get from internet.
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Thus it should be avoided possibility for fuel starvation and can be driven with low fuel level in main tank.
For main fuel pump after surge tank will be used external Aeroflow one, similar to Bosch 044 with spec of 300l/h at 3bar pressure.
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In-tank pump, which now will serve as a lift pump, was replaced with new Magneti Marelli one. It will now operate not on pressure unlike original configuration and will have higher flow than what is intended for.
Custom made surge tank and Aeroflow external pump are mounted at the back, below the car.
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Original fuel rail with Kappa’s inlet manifold is plastic one, which is not very performance oriented and is used aluminium one from Fiat Coupe non-turbo engine, which have pressure regulator mounted at side of it. And for fuel pressure regulator is used standard Bosch 3bar one, so base fuel pressure will be increased from standard one for that car of 2.5bar and that will improve fuel atomisation.
For fuel injectors are used up-to-date performance aftermarket items - Fuel Injector Clinic 1000cc3/min high impedance ball&seat injectors
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They are dynamically flow matched by Fuel Injector Clinic and came with report for that and data for each particular injector in that set, which to be used for configuration in the ECU. That will benefit fuel tuning and general performance.
In this post I will write about the brain, which will monitor and control the engine and other related systems.
Original ECU is not bad at all and do its job very well. It use speed density strategy with MAP sensor, which have benefit performance wise from lack of restriction in the intake compared to need of MAF sensor for measurement of air mass. But as with any electronics there is progress of the technology. With any old ECU it is possible to start to happen some strange running issues related to it and more specifically to aging of capacitors. Some electrical inspection of it is not a bad thing generally. Some time ago I considered extending capabilities of original ECU by using of RP-Lab services. If that project was executed 10 years ago let say probably for sure that will be the route to go, but I decided to go with a more modern approach with more capabilities and have been chosen and bought Ecumaster EMU Black (https://www.ecumaster.com/products/emu-black/)
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This is their premium ECU and offer a lot of features for its value and look as a very high quality product. Ecumaster is a polish brand and their ECUs are intended for 4 and 6 cylinder engines. The engine will be controlled with sequential ignition and fuel injection. And that mean that factory waster-spark ignition with two coils and ignition cables will be replaced with the more modern and capable coil-on-plug setup :) . Also is planned to be added some additional sensors to the ECU for engine protection basically, which I'm not sure is it possible with just extension of standard ECU.
In the above picture can be seen also a bluetooth module for that model of ECU (Ecumaster CAN-BUS Bluetooth module), but that will not be used actually. Later I also decide to add an option for logging of data without a laptop connected to it, which on that ECU can done with additional Ecumaster EDL-1 module. That module also incorporate a bluetooth module and that will be used instead of initially purchased separate module.
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As is probably clear, the purpose of using a bluetooth module is to be able to view real-time data on phone or tablet without the need to connect a laptop to the ECU. Ecumaster have their own application for presenting data only for Android devices - EMUDash (https://play.google.com/store/apps/developer?id=ECUMASTER&hl=en). And there is another popular one, which support this and many other ECU -> RealDash (http://realdash.net/index.php).
My plan is to have close to zero additional gauges in the interior to keep it as clean as possible and basically that will be the concept to view data when desired without the need to connect a laptop to the ECU.
Some more information about additional sensors, which will be used with mentioned in previous post ECU and not only.
I have already mentioned about ignition and fuel injection concept, which will be used with that ECU. Another major aspect in engine control is about the feedback for burned fuel from oxygen sensor in exhaust gases. Originally is used so-called narrow-band oxygen sensor, which is very accurate just very close to stoichiometric air-fuel ratio i.e. λ=1, which is aimed at low load conditions like idle and light cruise. With new ECU will be used so called wide-band oxygen sensor instead, which is accurate in much wider A/F ratio range as its name suggest. And such sensor is an indispensable tool for engine tuning as you probably know. For that goal was purchased AEM X-Series Wideband UEGO AFR Sensor Controller Gauge (showed with some other pars in below picture :) )
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The ECU have controller for wide-band sensor, but will be used AEM one in the gauge. My plan is the gauge to not be installed in visible place in the car, but it will be in the car and will provide AFR as analogue signal to ECU. The gauge will be used during engine tuning for quick reference.
Some additional sensors will be connected to ECU for engine protection. Again, no gauges for them in the cabin :) . Below are showed two Titan Motorsport stainless steel 10bar pressure sensors, which have been bought for such use.
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One will be used for engine oil pressure. There is a sensor with such function already on the car, but it is only for viewing on the dash and it will remain. The new one is stainless steel (don't know from what material is original one) and much more accurate I guess.
Other will be used for fuel pressure in the rail to look for issues with fuel supply like issue with pump/s or fuel lines.
Another AEM 3.5bar stainless steel pressure sensor will be used for the pressure in cooling system. Cylinder pressure will be much higher than originally and with this sensor will be look for signs of issues with cylinder head sealing in earlier stage.
The next sensor added is for the speed of turbocharger
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The compressor cover of turbo is prepared and almost ready for installation of this Borg Warner turbo speed sensor on it (it can be seen installed on it on some of previous pictures). That series of turbos with titanium aluminide (or Gamma-TIi) turbine wheels are very sensitive to overspeeding. For that case and as the turbo will be pushed the turbo speed will go into ECU also. With using of this data and turbo pressure can be seen on compressor map (which are available for all EFR turbos) where exactly is operated and are we close to maximum possible airflow from turbo in particular setup. Also data from it can be very useful for finding boost leaks or how much harder the turbo start to work in much higher altitudes.
This sensor return frequency with 0-5V amplitude, which unfortunately cannot be used as input in that ECU. And for that was purchased additional converter - DCCDPro Turbo Speed Scaler
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This unit convert the frequency signal from turbo speed sensor to 0-5V analogue signal, which can easily be used as in input in ECU or another data logging system. It have matching connector for speed sensor and power supply it. So look like something specifically made for this task ... and now start bad things - we didn't see it working at all from the start. We contacted that Canadian company again, which "produce it" (DCCDPro) and from which have been bought, but after we showed them pictures from oscilloscope showing that there is signal from sensor, but nothing (0V) after their unit they sad that will not support us, because we have order it by another company for parts and it that way we are not first hand buyer for them! After that I gave that unit to a friend of mine, which was good with electronics and have worked in electronic service shop at some point of time. Inside he saw Chinese modules with deleted numbers and generally bad assembling with used a lot of silicone! He try to make it work as it should and I hope to succeed. But with this unpleasant experience, I highly not recommend that company DCCDPro :angry:!
I'm wanting to push close to the limit of that setup on pump fuel and the climate here is hot, which hinder this goal. So additional system will be added to "combat" with the hot air - water-methanol injection. In short, fine spray of water and/or methanol is injected in intake path during high loads. The process of transition from liquid to gas of that mix take a lot of heat and intake air become cooler, which help with suppression of detonations. On other hand, the methanol have higher octane rating than petrol and in that way the octane rating of air-fuel mixture is increased. That is a very simple explanation and there is more detail articles and videos on the net.
Generally, WMI kits offered are separate systems controlled by their own control unit using additional data like boost or fuel injectors duty cycle to achieve that. The goal here is WMI system to be very advanced and controlled by ECU as everything engine related. For that goal, the system will be complicated and will consist of a lot of parts.
The pump, hose, nozzles, holders and check valve are from Snow Performance
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Two nozzles will be used: 375ml/min at 40psi (size 5 in their nomenlature) and 225ml (size 4), which was ordered later. Generally different WMI manufacturers rate nozzles differently.
Red hose doesn't comply with my color concept and black one have been sourced :) .
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Injection will not be controlled only by start and stop of pump like is done on most of the kits, but will be used also a solenoid which will be PWM controlled by ECU. For that task have been bought ProMeth solenoid
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As a tank is used washer fluid tank from some Lancia Lybra, which is located on left on it and here it will also be on the left in the place of air filter box. It also have low level sensor, which will be used in the fail-safe strategy. Such solution was intentionally searched as I want closer to original looking and no additional tank in the trunk for example, which is normal for such systems.
Most off the shelf kits have very basic fail safe feature or doesn't have any at all. For advanced fail-safe device is used AEM Water/Methanol Failsafe Gauge (https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/water-methanol-injection-systems/water-methanol-failsafe-gauge). Also have been bought their WMI filter.
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It is a standalone system with flow gauge, which is also a control unit. Have its own interface from which it is configured. It can provide fail signal as an output to other system and it is used in the ECU. Failsafe is very important for WMI as if the tune is more aggressive and dependent on WMI and that system doesn't work as intended, then catastrophic result can happen.
Unfortunately, look like their flow sensor is not specifically designed to work with methanol content and have failed on other car after not so long use!
So to avoid such scenario (hopefully) have been bough Aquamist flow sensor, which is specially designed to work with methanol and also use different more linear principle to measure flow.
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It also need a dedicated cable provided also by Aquamist (on above picture are showed two sensors and cables for them). Both AEM and Aquamist flow sensors return frequency signal, but range and characteristic is different between them and hence flow gauge will not indicate as intended, but more important is catch of fail situation. After some testing on other car have been seen that the difference between actual flow and this showed on gauge is small.
As the gauge in AEM's WMI fail-safe is not only a simple gauge and have to be in the car, so it will be used also as a gauge. Generally this is not as per my gaugeless concept, but as it have to be in the car better to be normally visible. Also in addition to fluid flow it have indicators for low and high flow as per configuration from user interface.
Now will go a little side of power production and distribution.
Rear subframe was also cleaned and painted. At the same time old bushes on it was replaced with polyurethane ones from one local manufacturer of polyurethane bushes -> www.polyurethan.me (http://www.polyurethan.me).
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Bushes on front wishbones was also replaced with polyurethane ones from Strongflex. Their "sport" version.
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Pedders Suspension anti-roll bars was installed.
Rear brakes have been upgraded with aluminium calipers from late '90 Italian cars, which have been showed here some time ago and bigger 280mm solid brake discs. Only below picture showing them after install I have :D
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Rear suspension with dampers from H&R coilovers for 155 2.5 V6 and old Eibach springs was very soft and wheels was rubbing, for which I have complained and searched solution in another thread. After seeing new Intrax rear springs (which are showed in one previous post) and old Eibach ones next to each other we decided to not try with installing them as they doesn't look to be stiffer and to be leaved new, unused. Actually the coil is thinner and shorter. New custom rear springs have been ordered from GAZ with rate of ~7.1kg/mm (400lbf/inch) and length as of Intax ones. Below is compared with old Eibach.
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It is much thicker and stiffer than Eibach spring. After installation there was unpleasant surprise and the car was around 4cm higher than before! After some springs modifications and fitment adjustment this was corrected and on above picture of the back of the car is how it is now.
For the front have been ordered camber plates from BC racing for Fiat Coupe. They offer complete coilover kits with camber plates and not just camber plates, but we have ask them and they agreed and the price was good.
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The specific thing here is that H&R coilovers are made for standard top mounts and camber plates are for coilovers with camber plates, which are little different at top. So some fabrications have been done to be fit.
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For engine oil (after break-in period) is used AMSOIL DOMINATOR 15W-50
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This is basically a racing oil with high wear protection, but the engine is not standard anymore also. Pistons for example are made from 2618 aluminium alloy, which is with low silicone content compared to other popular alloy for forged pistons 4032 and have greater linear expansion rate than 4032 and require more clearance. This oil is not intended for long-term use and need to be changed more frequently, which is not a surprise for a racing product.
For transmission oil is used Castrol 75W140.
For brake fluid is used Castrol SRF
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This is high performance brake fluid with very high dry and wet boiling point. As brake fluid is hygroscopic high wet boiling point become more important with use, but generally it have to be changed on 2-3 years (not speaking for race use).
With much bigger power will become harder it to be put to the ground. To help with that were purchased Zestino Gredge 07RS 215/40-R17 semi-slick tyres in their soft version
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Yes, that is new and and not big and popular brand, but have good reviews for them here, especially for its price. Also no much options for that size, which is the same as before. The treadwear is softest available for this model of 140.
We are getting closer to the end of performance project.
Here is some pictures of completely assembled, highly modified engine bay.
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Unexpectedly, A/F ratio wideband sensor from AEM kit give up after engine break-in period and some tuning, so new Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor have been bought. Maybe some defect with it, I don't know, but hope new one to be much more durable. It will be connected to AEM gauge, which is also controller, as previous one (which was also Bosch LSU 4.9). AEM have deleted numbers on sensor, so we cannot be absolutely sure that new one is with exactly the same product number, but functional wise I don't think that there will be any difference.
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Turbosmart IWG75 dual port wastegate actuator was with springs for 14psi and with it lowest boost level is 0.7bar. That actuator can have up to three size springs installed at same time (inner, medium and outer and for each size is offered two options for spring rate). During mapping on high boost on 4rd was seen unstable boost and to cure that have been bought two new springs.
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With using of one of available springs that combination is rated for 23psi (maximum possible is 26psi). This move is not as per initial plan for very widely spread boost settings, but still there will be good range between them. Generally, asking for a lot of boost from internal wastegate require very stiff spring/s and they may have some benefit on spool.
At the end of this post one current picture of engine bay after some mapping sessions have been done ... and removed red stickers, which are not as per my color concept :D
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Steve Webb
09-07-20, 15:44
Looking awesome, and glad to see it all coming together.
Couple of questions, did you need to move the power steering reservoir when you fitted the Kappa\Integrale plenum, I notice it is in a different location.
And what coil on plugs are you using, and what are you using to drive them? Not the standard ignitors I presume?
Many things behind intake manifold have been repositioned as can be seen from the photos. I guess that power steering tank needed some reposition and reason to be moved there is not only installing of that intake manifold.
Ignition coils are for some VAGs and are so called "smart coils" and have igniter inside them. They are directly controlled by ECU and new wires have been routed for them.
With new configuration of springs inside wastegate actuator base boost is 1.2bar and I think that is a good value for low boost setting :)
We didn't succeed to fix turbo speed scaler box from DCCDPro. We order same Chinese converter module for frequency to voltage, which is used inside it and it also doesn't work. I advice to not be ordered for sure!
Fortunately I have came across advert for new turbo speed scaler from Road Rage Gauges in eBay and it was bought.
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Initially when I searched for options for scaler box this was other option, which I found to be available in Australia, but we decided for that from Canada, don't remember why now. This is not available anymore there and I cannot find it from other place. Company's site doesn't exist anymore also. Initially Borg Warner worked with Road Rage Gauges for implementing of such box and some gauge/s and this is mentioned in some their documents for EFR turbos. If I haven't found this option I will buy official turbo speed gauge from Borg Warner TSG-1, which also can output analogue signal. It is very expensive and generally I try to avoid additional gauges inside cabin.
Yes, some will say such converter box can be made, but I look for readily available solution, which should be tested and working.
And I'm happy to announce that this box is working :).
Steve Webb
16-07-20, 16:40
Thanks for that, I did look into the COP solution previously, but never went forward with them, nice to know that they just need a signal from the ECU to trigger, means the existing ignitors and coils can both go.
Can you remember what length COP's you went with?
The ECU should have four ignition outputs to drive them individually.
I don't know the size, but can tell you that if you look for "perfect" fit and visual appearance, then this model is not for you. Work on the car is done 300+ km from me and almost all picture on this 2nd page are not made by me, except on some parts and I haven't seen them on my engine, but have seen them on other engines and they stick out a lot. They are for some TFSI and are preferred by tuner, because of their ignition power ... and for me is also important to be black. Here is a site on which there is dimensions for some coils -> link (https://www.finjector.com/eng/ignition_coils-42/) (look for "Files" tab in their description).
Steve Webb
20-07-20, 16:18
Cheers for the link, I know I'm never going to get a perfect fit, just so long as they can be made to fit, that's good enough for me.
Getting a COP solution will help clean up under the hood a little.
Now the car have working air conditioner after restoring the system which have missing condenser, cut pipes to it and one leak have been found and fixed after testing the system. Will see how will work in the future. For sure a very good feature for a street car especially in hot climate areas and also that is how the car was build initially.
Now to the final touches, which are related to the interior. They can be divided to two groups - for monitoring and for control.
I have to admit that my initial plan for close to zero additional gauges didn't happen, but installed ones needs to be in the car, because they are also control units and as they needs to be in the car then better to be visible in my opinion.
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On left is water-methanol injection failsafe, which show flow and have error indicators for low and high flow conditions. And on right is wide-band AFR. Initially I consider mounting on top of dash, but finally decided to be on steering column. Mounting in air vents or cutting/drilling of dash has never been an option. Custom mounting brackets have been fabricated for this install. For monitoring of other parameters will be used EMUDash app connected to Ecumaster logger on bluetooth. It is available only for Android (at the moment) and I have to bough a tablet probably for that purpose.
For control I planned a control panel with switches. I like toggle switches more than rocker switches, so that is how was implemented.
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The panel is really simple and minimalistic and consist of just two switches, but they are really significant ones. As can be guess from like temporary naming below them on left is switch for enabling/disabling of water-methanol injection system and on right is for low/high boost. Low boost setting is 1.2bar on wastegate spring without boost control and high boost setting depend on WMI - without WMI it is 1.6bar and with WMI is 2.0-2.1bar (depend on temperature as upper one is for colder weather). There is space for more switches and leds on that panel, but for the moment we don't see something else to be needed.
The ECU support a lot of sport features like anti-lag, launch control, but none have been implemented as they put more stress on components and are not needed on a street car.
And finally the car came to me after almost 2 years and 11 months being at two places, where have been worked on it - JS Design for exhaust and ICI Design for basically almost everything. During this period I haven’t driven the car or heard it’s voice. And now with so much modifications and at such much higher performance level it is like owning a new car with which I have to get used to. And now some photos, this time from me 🙂
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Some corrections and changes have been made to the car after I have done some kilometres with it and collected some impressions of my basically new car, so will call this Rev.2 :) . The biggest and most important of all is on suspension and especially at the front side. It was very crashy and unforgiving at the front on our for sure not perfect roads and was really unpleasant to drive if the road is not good. I don't expect a comfort like a normal car, but that was too much.
So I decided to try something different and was ordered front BC Racing BR coilovers for Fiat Coupe turbo with standard spring rates of 6kg/mm
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These have also benefit of adjustable damping in 30 positions by knobs at the top, so some tuning is possible at any time.
An opportunity occur to buy slightly used rear dampers from same BR kit for Fiat Coupe turbo and get them
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They are also adjustable in 30 positions as the front ones and will be better match for custom stiff GAZ springs as H&R dampers was really soft and they are produced for different model in the first place (155 V6)
Right now they are set at 5 clicks from hardest setting and now the car feel better for sure, it is stiff, but not so crashy at front so I can say that I'm happy with this move :).
Other things, which have been touched are not so big, but still add to the total effect of better car :)
And as a final touch, changing of toggle switches with bigger and stronger ones
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The car now is a very serious machine and a blast to drive. The acceleration is like a rocket to me and you feel and hear everything unlike new cars, which adds to the drama. That tyre size 215/40-R17 is practically the maximum 17" for this car in my opinion and even with soft semi-slicks traction is not always there, so have to be careful.
A little more info about small things in "Rev.2", which I just mentioned in previous post:
- front bonnet struts was replaced with new Magneti Mareli items, which I sourced as older ones weren't doing their job anymore;
- adjustments to ECU tune for light load areas;
- adjustment to idle control valve. Also a new not-original valve have been bought, but appear that no issue with original one and it is better build also, so is not installed.
- changing of mounting of rear muffler with using of rubber exhaust mount used on other 155s on not only with 4 holes as previously left exhaust tip was touching and melting rear bumper;
- original compressor recirculating valve (CRV) on EFR turbo was replaced with replacement Turbosmart recirculating valve for these turbos and not only. It was replaced as a precaution, because it fails on another car with same turbo. It is louder than original one.
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Recently I have rearranged some auto parts and bring out one of them for a comparison picture only, don't plan to install them for now :)
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Varypodaros
23-02-21, 20:10
Hello, congratulations for your great project. May I ask you something? Why didn't you make it drive by wire? It deletes the idle valve and any malfunction of it.
Thank you :)
The ECU support drive-by-wire throttle control, but honestly haven't think much about it and considered it. Using the original throttle body and idle control valve was just straightforward approach, without modifications. But you have a good point here and I may consider it in the future. It have some benefits regarding engine control and protection especially in my opinion. For reliability and safety I have some doubts, but it is the standard in new cars now, so it should be reliable enough, but also they have spend a lot of time setting it up and testing to be like that I guess. The trickiest part of implementing such system will be with throttle pedal I guess. Setting it up in a good way will take some effort also I guess.
Varypodaros
01-03-21, 15:19
I really want to buy a standalone ECU in the future. I 've made some research about it and throttle petal isn't that difficult. You don't have even to change the petal! You can use a device that is found in some Acura Accord in USA or Peugeot 306 Hdi in Europe, that is a sensor that changes the cable throttle to dbw signal. Have a look:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FITS-PEUGEOT-306-307-405-406-607-2-0HDI-3-0-V6-THROTTLE-POSITION-SENSOR-1920AK-/274201105473
So, you fit the engine end of the throttle cable on it, and a reliable e-throttle on your plenum. Check the list of throttles that are in the ecumaster wizard and it's an easy way to go.
In my opinion, is better to be kept original ECU, if the car is not seriously modified or a racing car.
There is different type of sensors and implementation in vehicles of course. I wouldn't go with replacement, not original part for such system and also would like to be as close to original implementation and fitment as possible. On the pictures, which I see, sensors are like integrated part with throttle pedal. Look like the sensor, which you showed is some older, 'hybrid' implementation.
Varypodaros
04-03-21, 17:49
Original ECUs are old and they get faulty. I think that in 2021 standalone ECUs are cheap and more reliable. They get tuned easily and have much more possibilities. Not that easy to get it working, but if you make it, it will be great.
Of course you know it, as you already have the emu black fitted.
Yes, the point for now aged original electronic is good and as years past will become more apparent. If using original ECU and some strange behaviors start to occur maybe is not a bad idea to be checked by specialist and likely to be changed some capacitors as they age, but have to be good one, as otherwise may be forced to buy another ECU. Yes, the progress in factory and aftermarket ECUs is very big in recent years.
The new season for this car has not started yet, but there is something big prepared for it already.
The idea for it appear in my mind for first time even before the car start to move with current setup I think. And during "Black Friday" people normally buy other type of goods, but that is for normal people :biggrin:
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Borg Warner EFR7670 T4 Twin Scroll 0.92A/R with internal wastegate
The difference in maximum compressor flow capacity as per map is not so big between this and EFR7163, but size wise and in advertised power rating by BW is significant. It is bigger than current EFR7163 T4 TS IWG in basically every aspect - compressor wheel, turbine wheel, turbine housing and A/R, center housing, length. It is part of bigger frame range B2 and 7163 is from smaller B1. As per wheels size and flow it is similar to Garrett GTX3576R. Currently the car is very fast and have good response for its power and practically on the road is not needed more and bigger turbo with corresponding shifting of power to the right. But when you go to power route generally always is strived for more and I'm also interested to try and see how will be with bigger turbo. From comparing drawings of both and what I can see in engine bay currently I expect this change to be quick with just some changes to the intake. Relative position of flanges on turbine side is the same from what I see and read so expect direct fit on exhaust manifold and downpipe. Also my plan is if I really don't like the car with it to be able to quick and easy return to current turbo, i.e. something don't fit new one and cannot be easily prepared/sourced to be made new for it and old to be kept. I expect lower backpressure and higher power at same boost levels, which is normal going to bigger turbo. And lower backpressure should be better for durability as less heat and pressure at 'exit' of engine.
Varypodaros
07-04-21, 22:32
This is huge. 👍
Do you have any video of the car with efr7163?
EFR turbos are generally big in size. They are much longer than others especially with internal wastegate. Their center section is longer than others, because of wider spread bearings and more complex sealing system.
I don't have a video, but here is one from car's builder and tuner -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILMDer4Oa-g
Recently I bought something very rare for Alfa Romeo 155, which complements other rare part, which I acquired some time ago and both have their story and influence in motorsport and in particular in BTCC.
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Silverstone/Formula rear spoiler lift kit
I bought this as old, little used, original kit and look to be such to me. I know that there is stainless steel replicas of it or even something similar, without even having original parts or dimensions, can be build locally, but for me is important to be original thing. It doesn’t look so nice and as factory on a car from pictures in my opinion and I don’t plan to use it for now, but I’m glad that now I’m having full original Silverstone/Formula kit consisting of front splitter, rear spoiler and lift kit, a part of the history of the model 🙂.
Here is a picture of a BTCC racing car with them
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And two articles about story of these spoilers:
https://medium.com/roadster-life/bending-the-rules-43d7972ec413
https://www.google.com/amp/s/1990sbtcc.com/2018/11/15/alfa-romeo-winging-their-way-to-victory/amp/
The plan for power upgrade with bigger EFR7670 turbo is postponed for now. After long waiting of car’s tuner and mechanic to came my turn during winter, spring and after that and car continuing its winter hibernation in the garage, I just give up and decided to start the season and drive and enjoy the car. Engine oil was changed with same racing oil as before - Amsoil Dominator 15W-50. Here is some pictures from this summer.
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Varypodaros
15-12-21, 18:49
Any update?
Nothing special. Now the car is at winter hibernation mode.
There is an issue with popping-off of one intercooler pipe. Must be done some modification to pipe/s to hold better clamp/s. Intercooler pipes are fabricated from stainless steel on which have been done 3-4 point hits from inside to help with support of clamps, if you understand me. Clamps are T-bolt heavily tighten. On stainless steel pipes is not so easy to be made full bead roll as on aluminum ones.
Some modifications will be done to ECU. Vehicle speed and gear are not setup in ECU and I want to see them in the log :) . Also, look to me that there is a difference in AFR between steady driving in warm and hot weather, which must be addressed. Currently is used onboard 4bar MAP of ECU, but will be switched to separate MAP sensor just as precaution if it fail and to be easier for replacement (car's tuner sad that recently it failed on other car, which he have worked with same ECU). Probably will be used again 4bar sensor originally used on some VAG :D . Air-conditioner must check as no cold air from it. Maybe something else small also, we will see.
I have stalling and not starting issue with my other car from long time now and decided to not continue tries and errors of service shop to fix it and instead to be started a performance project with same tuner as on 155. Don't want to "pollute" this thread with details about other car.
So other car is main focus for this year and now don't think for other serious modification and more power for 155. I don't have other car than listed in my signature. And 155 is pretty fast at current state, static CR is 9:1 and even a little bit more and with WMI and high boost setting it is set at 2.1bar and estimated at around 550-560hp at engine (not in hot day, haven't been at actual dyno, just PerfExpert app and tuner's opinion). At lower settings it is also fast, so can honestly say that it is sufficiently powered especially for public roads, just greed for power arise from time to time :) .
And now for both cars I'm waiting same tuner for my turn to come and he work very very slowly.
I haven’t wrote here from beginning of the year and now the season for it is over, so this will be like a summary for this year 🙂.
Some modifications to intercooler pipes have been done and no more blow pipes from then.
For MAP we switched from ECU’s onboard sensor to external one. Chosen by tuner was 4bar MAP sensor used on many VAG diesels - BOSCH 0 281 006 059. This sensor is called also TMAP, because it also measure temperature, but this is not used in our case.
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It is readily available and relatively cheap, which is very good and desired thing, but have a drawback for my case. Its upper range of 400kPa is more than enough, but pressure in intake reach values lower than its lower limit of 50kPa. These are short periods of very low loads as on engine braking, but still bother me. All analogue inputs have been used even before this change, so one of other sensors must be disconnected to make space unfortunately. Coolant pressure was selected for this unpleasant task.
Some work have been done on air-conditioner, which worked for maybe 2 or 3 months after the system was returned to complete and working state (removed condenser and cut pipes to it before me) during big work on the car. A leakage was found and seal was replaced. Also is used additive for stopping of leaks and it is working for now, more than 5 months from then. Will see how will be in the future, but can say, that this is a big win for me. Working air-con is not an easy request for an old car in my opinion. I will be fully satisfied if it remain working for the whole season after refilling in the spring.
Tuner suspect air leak from idle control valve housing and it was replaced including the valve with used ones from Fiat Coupe 16V, housing of which is aluminium.
Leaks from fittings to WMI solenoid have been noticed and they have been replaced. Also, check valve have been removed as there is already solenoid, which block flow and just to avoid case of blockage of it.
Some work on ECU side was done - setup of gear and speed channels, which I wanted to see in the log. Low load areas have been tweaked. Modifications to corrections with working air-con. Up to 5% fuel removing have been configured for correction in closed loop from wideband AFR sensor. Originally fuel is only added up to 10%.
During last trip with the car AFR controller start to show only “SEnS” error, which normally mean disconnected sensor, but connections to sensor and gauge look normal, so probably the sensor have failed. I have also read for gauge failure with such error. Will see next year.
I bought one more set of yellow fog lights.
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And as a final of this post a video of the car, which I made with Insta360 ONE RS and additional equipment, which I bought this year. This is my first video with it, so initial testing basically.
https://youtu.be/Tgv3yHHXbTQ
Varypodaros
13-12-22, 21:31
👍👍👍
It is winter now, but active season is not so far ahead so look right time to share something about my plans for this year and what have been prepared for it 🙂.
As I said in previous post, I’m not so happy with range of used external MAP sensor, especially its lower limit - 50kPa. I see in the logs periods right at 50kPa, where it is actually below it and correspondingly AFR is richer than desired. Some additional functionalities of ECU was implemented to combat this last year, but it is not optimal solution for sure and cannot replace receiving correct MAP signal in these low load areas. So, I want to try another MAP sensor with more pleasant range for my car. The goal is also to be OEM and readily available, which will be good if needing replacement in the future. After some research, I think that found one, which look, that probably will have desired range for my car and order it. After that I order correct corresponding plug for it.
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From what I see this sensor is used on A45 AMG with 360 and 381hp and other Mercedes and generally this type of MAP sensors are used on many Mercedes. I cannot find clear specification of it, but in details and numbers I see BOSCH (DS-S3 20 - 350kPa), from which I assume and expect it to be with range 20-350kPa, which is what I’m looking for. Also, I read that these A45 AMGs run 1.8bar max from factory so wouldn’t be surprising if they use such range MAP.
Specific pins for connecting plug are needed and I found TPMS plug kit, which look to use same type of plugs and at a good price.
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After receiving it I found that plugs from above kit are lower quality and not absolutely the same as the one, which I bought earlier. Locking flap/door on plugs from kit look to be a little bit more inside and cannot click/lock on sensor and I try to show it with below comparison.
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I cannot say for sure, that plugs from this kit will fit the same way in its original TPMS purpose, but other plug look better quality to me and I cannot see how result will be different. All have really snug fit on MAP sensor.
So, from VAG sourced parts to Mercedes sourced ones, I think is a good move 😀. This is the most complicated 3pin automotive plug, which I have seen until now I think 🙄.
This post become longer than expected, so will continue in new one 🙂
This is continuation of the previous post for my plans for ‘23.
Something else, which I’m not so happy about is that currently there is one sensor installed on the car, which is not used - coolant pressure sensor. When the car was ready after big tuning transformation already all available analogue inputs of ECU was used. Then we switched to external MAP sensor instead of onboard one as a precaution of potential failure of it seen on other units and also to ease replacement in the future in case of failure. For that change to happen, some of other analogue sensors occupying input in ECU must be removed and that was coolant pressure sensor. And this is current state of analogue inputs:
- ECU’s onboard MAP - not used ( it can also be used as a barometric (BARO) )
- coolant temperature (CLT)
- throttle position (TPS)
And 6 auxiliary analogue inputs 0-5V:
- AFR - from AEM X-series wideband controller
- MAP
- oil pressure
- fuel pressure
- turbocharger speed/rpm - through Road Rage Gages turbo speed scaler
- water-methanol injection (WMI) flow - from AEM WMI Failsafe
In addition to MAP, there is another signal from above list, which can be used in EMU Black, without having to spend auxiliary analogue input - AFR. EMU Black have controller for Bosch LSU 4.9. Wideband sensors are complex and require control (of “oxygen pump”, by which must be achieved stoichiometric AFR in a Nernst cell…) which must be really good to achieve correct and fast reading in different situations. Some time ago there was complains about accuracy of data from EMU Black controller and because of that we use standard and proven approach with AEM controller, which is gauge and controller in one unit and can provide 0-5V analogue output of AFR to analogue input of ECU. Later Ecumaster made some improvements to their wideband controller and claimed very good accuracy, but at the moment I don’t plan to try that and in this way to free one analogue input, so other way must be found …
After some research I found, that Ecumaster offer one device, which look that can do what I want -> CAN switch board V3 (https://www.ecumaster.com/products/can-switch-board/)
This is a little board originally designed to provide information and control on racing wheels. To it can be connected 8 analogue and 8 switch state inputs and also have 4 low side outputs. It natively communicate with EMU Black through CAN and signals from it are integrated in Black’s software. It can also be connected with devices of other brands through CAN, but in these cases CAN communication must be defined between them as will be the case with That Racing Channel’s Skyline GT-R -> YouTube link (http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AIpBxT99uE0).
As this is “just” a circuit board, then placing it somewhere in the car with some wires connected to it will not be optimal for sure. I search for some possibilities and found some guys, which have made a 3D printed box/case with connectors initially for their needs, but after interest for it they started to produce and sell to others -> RKDE (https://rkde.company.site/) . I contacted them at moment, when they was at the end of marketing and selling the product by themselves and my unit is last one for now from what I understand from communication with them. So now there isn’t any product on their still active site, but they was offering only the case or with soldered Ecumaster CAN board on it. They offered also an option for more powerful outputs. They offered 3D printed covers for some aftermarket dashes also. I ordered their standard option with Ecumaster board already soldered on it and after some waiting to be produced I received it 🙂
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They send me also as a gift some small boards for soldering and connecting wires, which they offered. A nice touch from them 🙂. Hopefully will not have issues with setting it up and will work as it should and be reliable. My plan is with it first to be tested new MAP sensor from previous post at same time in parallel with current one and if everything is as expected to be switched to it with new mounting bracket required for it. Coolant pressure sensor must come into play again.
This I/O expansion unit will open many possibilities for expansion of acquired data in the future, we will see 😁.
This post is related to wheels, something that have been mentioned several times so far. So first here is some summary:
- silver Borbet type E 16” 7.5J 4x98 - the car was initially with these and 215/40-R16 tyres. They was sold as I don’t see to go with 16” wheels and to free some space;
- titanium tech (dark grey) OZ Alleggerita HLT 16” 7J 4x100 - I bough them from advert new in the box mainly because was a good deal. They was sold years later with similar arguments to 16” Borbet and also for some fresh money;
- black Compomotive TH2 17” 7.5J 4x98 - these was additional set that came with the car with 215/35-R17 tyres and also there was one more new in the box, so 5. Still have them, but haven’t put them on the car yet…
- crystal titanium OZ Ultraleggera 17” 7J 4x100 - these I bough used from advert and currently are on the car.
For OZ Ultraleggera I can say that they are my favourite wheel model. They have very aggressive and edged design and 155 is also edged so in my opinion they fit very well the appearance of the car, which I look for. And they are also super light, which have undeniable benefits for performance and is something that I also look for. I have sympathy for OZ, it is world famous company, which make high quality products used throughout in racing and is Italian as is the car and I think we all who like Italian cars also like Italian things in general 🙂. But there is one aspect with them, which I’m not so happy with - their PCD of 100. So with them I was required to use wobble bolts, which is generally a clever solution for such odd problem. But as I like so much this model and possibility to get one set arise, then that was something that I have to live with.
Years ago I have rarely heard or seen of OZ wheels with correct PCD for many of Italian cars of 98 4x98 or 5x98, but don’t remember to have seen somewhere a more complete list of what is available in such configuration. Some time ago I saw that one local company for wheels and tyres offer same Ultraleggera variant, which I have on the car, but with correct PCD of 4x98 and the price was good compared to other variants in the same diameter. I made an order, but later they told me, that OZ answered them that this variant is not available and is stopped of production. They offer me other variant also in 4x98, but it was more expensive and I decided to not buy them then. I continued to look from time to time for Ultraleggera in 4x98 and during the pandemic have seen increase in prices of their wheels in general. Prices of used one also increased. There is one big local company for wheels and tyres, which previously was official dealer of OZ for here, then at one period look as not and recently again is listed as such and their site showed really a lot of models of OZ wheels. Recently prices
look to dropped compared to before that and after some thinking I decided to order one set and after 2-3 weeks these precious Italian metals arrived to me 😁
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These are OZ Ultraleggera 17” 7J 4x98 with ET35. The difference between these and current one on the car is that they are ET37 so a little more outwards, which must be seen what impact will have. Other difference is the color, these are matt graphite, which is darker grey than crystal titanium, which I like better, but just the options are very limited for such spec. Options for 4x98 seen in their site are 3 models - Rally racing, Formula HLT and Ultraleggera only in one size and spec and 2 or 3 colours. I have a feeling that all these are especially prepared for particular car and this car is Fiat 500.
I don’t plan to install them immediately, maybe when it is time to change the tyres, but glad to have them on my disposal 🙂. Also installation is not direct swap, standard wheel bolts, which must be longer as I have wheel spacers at front and back, which on itself may need some modifications or changes as tyres are close to fenders edge.
Some update for the start of new season, unfortunately without any photo.
The weather here this "spring" is not very nice with low temperatures and a lot of rain, but season must be started some day after all. Generally, my goal and plan is each season of driving to start with some inspection, servicing and possibly something else and this is highly preferably to be done by the tuner and builder of the car - ICI Design. As I have said before, he carried over the whole project and is very experienced from many executed tuning projects with cars using this and similar engine and drivetrain. Unfortunately, he is far away from me, but that is life. In previous posts I have explained in detail some things, which have been planned to be done and they was on the list for this visit. So, here is some summary for carried work.
- Engine oil was changed with same used since the engine was built - Amsoil Dominator 15W-50. This is racing engine oil and is expensive.
- Failed wideband sensor was replaced, fortunately and as expected only it was the issue, not AEM controller. This is second failed Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor since the car is build and for this time we decided to go with more protected and closed sensor bung. It was custom made by ICI Design and first such he made and use in his personal highly modified Fiat Coupe 2.0 16V turbo integrale. I see such item to be offered from Innovate Motorsports. We expect longer sensor life with it.
- MAP sensor was replaced with different one, which I showed in some of previous posts. It have range 30-350kPa and previous one was 50-400kPa. I wasn't absolutely sure about its range and expected 20-350kPa from some numbers, so good that it is almost like that and support goal, which was lower range than before and enough upper range. Some work here for different plug, mounting, air connection, check and tune up of ECU data.
- CAN bus switch board was mounted and unused coolant pressure sensor was connected to it. Because of specifics related to location of sensor, sensor specifications and how it is setup in Ecumaster program, this more for data trend and form and noticing small head gasket leak, than actual values.
- Air conditioner topping up.
- Upgrade of ECU's firmware and some changes there for vehicle speed, boost in higher gears
- There was also some things noticed, which needed attention - one was torn up CV boot and an issue with spigot rings.
And now a post with pictures and no technical information :). Recently I took part in Alfa Fest in Romania, which was four days event, that took place in Piatra Neamț and some places around it. It was a very well organised event with many participants mostly with much newer alfas. A long, around 1800km trip for me and the car and fortunately with no issues. Here are some my pictures of the car from this event.
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It looks fantastic. Thank you for the updates. It makes for some good inspiration!
I just watched the video from a few months ago...it is quick!!
Thanks for the good words AlfaJack 🙂! Not so sure if it is a good thing to be taken a lot of inspiration of it 😁, maybe some small one 🙂. Just it’s a long and expensive path toward something very special (read far from standard).
Not much to be said about work on the car. We have configured ECU’s onboard MAP sensor as a barometric pressure in the ECU. It was unused after switching to external MAP sensor. This was done not so to be used in control strategies in the ECU, but rather for monitoring and because I wanted to see boost pressure in the log, not only absolute manifold pressure. As it is inside the cabin and not exposed to big pressure amplitudes, oil fumes and moisture, I expect to not fail and live a long way. Strangely, look like it’s scaling as a BARO sensor cannot be changed, but there is table for that… Ecumaster must be asked for this. But it show values, which look to be valid. In the Ecumaster software for EMU Black cannot be configured math channels, but they have specific software for data analysis DataMaster, where such calculated math channels are possible. I have added such for boost there, where barometric pressure is substrates from absolute manifold pressure. I have calculated math channels there also for turbocharger speed, current fuel consumption.
Just to mention, that barometric pressure, which is expected in this case is different than that provided on weather forecasts.
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QFE: (FE) Field Elevation
QNH: (NH) Natural Horizon
QNE: (NE) Natural Earth
On weather forecast is provided QNH and here is expected QFE. There is aviation apps providing detail information. I have AutoDens on my phone.
I have done some shooting of the car recently, so here is some of it 🙂
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And one video clip
https://youtu.be/vY_r3BYPvYM?si=Py_q7nfSaMP0oygz
Amazing as ever - way over my head but what you have acheived is great.
Nice video too. Hopfully you can do a chase video with the 155 - they have objet tracking don't they (if you don't have a pilot to fly it).
Varypodaros
07-09-23, 23:11
Nice 👍👍👍
I mentioned before, that I use Ecumaster Data Master software to make custom calculation channels first for turbo speed and later for boost pressure as this is not possible in the software for Ecumaster EMU Black. I also made some for current fuel consumption. There is system channels from ECU for "Fuel usage" in liters/h and "Fuel used" in liters, from which 2nd one is not working in the logs currently unfortunately, it is always 0. So I used "Fuel usage" and vehicle speed, which is configured and calculated in ECU from VSS signal frequency, to calculate uncorrected (for variation of differential fuel pressure) current fuel consumption. In ECU's software is defined fuel injector size in cc3/min, which is at rated for fuel regulator base differential pressure, but if differential pressure changes from rated one so does fuel flow from injector. In my case, pumped fuel during low load is much more than used one and fuel pressure regulator become overwhelmed, so differential pressure increase than rated one. I doubt that system "Fuel usage" signal is corrected for available fuel pressure and respectively delta fuel pressure, so I made also corrected (for variation in fuel pressure) current fuel consumption custom channel. Not long ago there was question in one group for Ecumaster EMU Black about possibility to see fuel consumption with this ECU and this intrigued me and I look more into that in Data Master software. As a kids we have interested what is the max number on the speedometer of cars :D and now people are only interested how how much hp, how much it cost, and how much it consume :thinking-011: ... so look like important aspect to consider putting more effort :) . During that goal I implemented custom channels for total fuel used corrected for variations in differential fuel pressure (using fuel usage and delta fuel pressure), trip distance (using vehicle speed) and average fuel consumption corrected for variations in differential pressure (using calculated fuel used and trip distance). I think that mathematics look sound (trust me I'm an engineer :D ), results look reasonable and I'm very pleased with my "achievements" :8 :D .
And now something maybe more interesting and easy to assimilate - some new photos and video of the car :)
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https://youtu.be/HozUTFSY0DY?si=o-WnXO87YUUrlBSk
It is time for a first post for this year in this thread, better late than never as they say :)
Before the start of this season I bought something, which I already have bought before as a spare - original Q4 badge.
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When I first saw it for sale in one fb group I wasn't sure that want to buy another one and especially in unofficial, unsecured way there. But when I saw it again listed after some time decided to try my luck. The guy happen to be a passionate alfista with big alfa history and we have good alfa conversation :) Now I have two new original, sealed Q4 badges as a spare, so can say that I'm prepared for the future in that respect haha. But still I hope that current one on the car to stay there and in that condition :) . I have probably already mentioned it in this thread - this badge is the only visual outside identification of this model unfortunately ... yeah and the wheels
And now to the technical aspects and preparation for the new season. With some recent local stories about problems with modified cars and police in some cities I start to think about making the car to attract a little less attention. One aspect of this is by making it quieter and probably better term here will be less noisy. But I also don't wanted to sacrifice performance too much. This can be achieved with exhaust control, which changes exhaust gases path depending on condition or command as is used in modern performance cars. So we start to look for exhaust valves options on the market. We look only for simple variants without any electrical control and hence less parts to fail. And I bought the following exhaust valve, which open on boost
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Butterfly body is at 76mm/3", normally closed and start to open on positive pressure. There are different variants of such valves - normally closed or open and controlled by vacuum or boost. So different variant will be appropriate depending on mounting scenario and goal. By bench testing was seen, that this valve start to open at around 0.2bar and is fully open at around 0.5bar. Our idea is when the car is pushed and on boost to open more straight through exhaust path and in normal driving, when valve is closed path to be a little more indirect. Here I should mention that available space is a limitation to what can be done. Addition muffler was added and here are some pictures after instalation
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I don't say that it is like a standard car now, but it definitely have an effect in that direction, which was the goal :) The tune was also touched a bit for this change as VE changed a little in the low load conditions mostly.
Other aspect, which I planned in regards to unwanted attention, which the car can attract, was making the front mounted intercooler a little less noticeable. I'm not so big fan of DTM or GTA replica bumpers, because I like this car's fog lights haha and they don't have provision for such. And also I have yellow fog lights waiting for installation at some point in the future :). So, I first thought about painting just the end tanks in black as a compromise between making intercooler a little less visible and not hurting its efficiency. But at the end full front side of it was painted and it look good that way and it "hides" inside the bumper. I will show pictures with "new look" :D in the next post, which will be from one event where I go with the car and also because post become very long again :) .
There was also other activities around the car during this visit to the mechanic - oil and oil filter, timing belt, brake fluid, battery, modifications to crank case ventilation, prop shaft u-joint, cv joint at the back, air conditioner refilling, annual technical inspection and some touches to the tune.
This year I went with a friend of mine to Alfa Fest in Romania. I was with this car and he was with his Alfetta GT. This year it held at Târgu Mureș with driving at Transilvania Motor Ring circuit and visit at Alpine Coaster Toplita and Bethlen Castle. It was well organized 4-days event with many participants mainly with newer alfas Giulia and Stelvio. This is my 3rd participation of their annual multi-day event and 2nd in a row. Here are a couple of photos from this trip.
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Some more media for Romanian trip from previous post. I prepared a video for it for my YouTube channel dedicated to this car.
https://youtu.be/10kJd4unpic?si=2DYlexUMyqaMoDgj
Also some more photos:
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And something from yesterday really, related to this car, with which I’m very happy. I have in the car Ecumaster EDL-1 logger, which is connected to Ecumaster EMU Black ECU by serial communication and log almost any parameter from it to micro SD card when it is powered on. After some driving I copy and review on computer these logs with Ecumaster EMU Black software and Ecumaster Data Master, but since I switched to Apple MacBook Pro I wasn’t able to run these applications anymore as not surprisingly they are only available for Windows OS. I have this task in mind and have done some research about possibilities, but nothing more actually. There is one option which really intrigued me - running Windows Apps on Mac OS without Windows i.e. without virtual machine with Windows or installing Windows on Mac directly. It is free and fast, but not user friendly and doesn’t guarantee full functionality of the software as on Windows. This is by Wine, which is compatibility layer, which translates Windows API calls to supported host operating system calls on the fly. And yesterday I decided to go more deeper into it, read and watch about what I should do. No graphic interface here, everything is done in Terminal, which is like Command Prompt in Mac OS. After installing of Homebrew, which is a package manager for Mac OS (or Linux), Command Line Tools (CLT) for XCode, which is integrated development environment (IDE) for all Apple’s platforms, then I installed latest stable version of Wine by Homebrew. And for Wine to run on Apple silicon processor, which is not x86 based it needs Rosetta2, but look like on latest Mac OS it happen automatically or on background or have happen before and I did’t even get a prompt to be installed. So now I’m ready for download and instal of Ecumaster applications. Installation happen through Wine, i.e. downloaded install file is open with Wine and process is similar to what on Windows. Interestingly default locations are C:\Program Files … , which is not something you have on Mac, but this is a file structure from and for Wine. Both application was installed successfully and look to work normal 🙂. They doesn’t look exactly the same as in Windows, I see difference in appearance of windows and menus inside, but functionality look to be there at least for working with logs. I have played just a little with it yet, but look promising. Unfortunately I forgot to write somewhere my custom functions in Data Master and now I have to restore them from memory.
Thanks for the updates kunev - awesome to see the progress and your dedication to it!
I don't have any data to log seeing as the engine is just about ready to be removed. I have too many oil leaks and and the gearbox casing is absolutely covered in oil (on the inside). I will start a thread soon!
I’m glad you like this thread 🙂. I’m doing it also for me, a dedicated public place, where to write about the car and which I can use as a reference for me or others and this to accompany its history. I’m not looking for a great publicity. This site and forum is an apocryphal place from the old days, which every real 155 Q4 enthusiast and owner should know in my opinion. So what I write and show will only be seen by who is really interested and looking for information on this model, at least this is how I see it 🙂.
Wish you fast and quality progress and soon to have something to show us ;) . I also want to write only when I have something to tell and show.
Issues are also part of the game. One such occur during last long drive. First sign was that external in-line fuel pump become louder and changing its voice and after some time at one uphill engine slowly stopped and didn’t wanted to restart. A friend of mine, who lives not far away help me to pull the car and I decided to leave it at his place, return home, order new performance in-line fuel pump as this is what I suspected, send it to my friend and some local mechanic to install it. My mechanic recommended a new model performance in-line fuel pump from Bosch. It’s designed by Bosch Motorsport and is intended to replace renowned ‘044’ fuel pump and now is known as '200' in similar way to its predecessor as its product number ends with 200. Here are two informative pages about it:
https://www.bosch-performanceparts.com/news-and-stories/a-new-generation-of-pumps-is-here/
https://www.bosch-motorsport-shop.com.au/blog/tech-product-overviews/the-044-is-dead-long-live-the-bosch-motorsport-200/
As current Aeroflow external in-line fuel pump AF49-1014 is physical and performance equivalent to Bosch '044', this look as obvious approach. My mechanic ordered the pump and compare it dimension and connection-wise to same Aeroflow pump as on the car, which he has in place, before sending it to me. Here are both side by side
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The new pump is smaller as a body and is provided with connectors to make it direct fit for its predecessor. The only real functional difference is power supply cable shoes, which are exchanged compared to older model. There are cable shoes provided in the package with Bosch '200' pump. So the new in-line performance fuel pump is available, checked against existing one and ready for installation.
As this post already become long enough I will continue in another one ...
This is the continuation of previous post.
The pump was send to my friend, where the car was left and he has to arrange a local mechanic to change it. And after a couple of days I was told, that the pump was changed and the car is ready, but the mechanic wasn’t able to source a fuel filter on time, which was requested by me… I go to that town to pick up the car. After start up of engine I noticed, that new external fuel pump is quieter that previous one even before that issue, which is a good thing. But after some time and driving the new pump become noisier. I said to me, ok look like there is something else and probably my assumption was not correct. As it have to be waited 2 weeks at least for another known by my friend local mechanic in and around this town to have time to check it and I don’t wanted to drive it to city where I live, which is around 80km from there and car’s mechanic is far far away, I decided the car to be transported to one service shop specialised in Alfa Romeo in the city where I live. And after talk with them the car was transported directly to their place. After a couple of days they call me and told me, that in-tank fuel pump is dead. They replaced it with a Bosch unit with fuel filter filter also this time. There was another two things, which I'm requested from them to look and work on - steering column was not firmly locked in up-down position and driver side external door handle was opening the door almost if not in its up-most position. As you know, external door handles are well known issue for this model. They start to open the door more and more toward their top position and when they reach it people start to push them more to open the door and at some point they broke. In the winter they broke easier. And now these handles are not easily available. They have fixed both and and after some time told, that they are ready and I can get the car.
Normally I show new parts, but this time will be different. Here are old parts, which I get from them.
This is failed Magneti Marelli in-tank fuel pump.
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It is strange, that it failed as it was installed just a couple of years ago. It just fills up fuel surge tank and not build pressure in the fuel rail agains fuel pressure regulator as originally.
This is previous external external in-line fuel pump, which may not be broken, but may be damaged.
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This is old mechanism for open and lock of drivers door, which they changed. Now door start to open right after you pull the handle.
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Here is the package of new external in-line pump.
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I want to clarify here, that part number ending with 200 as on the picture above is for the package replacement for old ‘044’ pump. And pump only item ends with 150. This was mentioned in some of the articles, which I also posted, I think.
Here is the package of newly installed in-tank fuel pump.
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