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Steve Webb
13-04-12, 08:55
Looks like I can't put this job off any longer, I've got a number of things to do to the car that would be far easier with the inlet manifold removed.
So we all know that if you are sensible, when the manifold is put on, the jubilee clips are positioned so you can get at them form the top. The engine in my car was not put together sensibly so I can't get to the jubilee clips. Whats the best way to go about getting the manifold off when the car is like this?

Destroy the rubber connectors and fit new ones? Destroy the jubilee clips? or something else?

Cheers

AlfaJack
13-04-12, 09:04
Long nose snips and cut the jubilee clips off whilst skillfully not cutting the rubber connections.
Refit high quality clips with an 8mm hex.

Or, I think it is possible to undo the nuts and take it off complete with the inlet runners. Not as easy but IIRC it is possible. Might take some leverage to clear the studs.
You will need to disconnect the fuel pipes in/out.

Steve Webb
13-04-12, 09:31
Cheers Jack, I knew you'd know, well you do seem to take the manifold off your car every month or so.
I spotted a special jubilee clip tool the other day that holds the clip as you tighten it (all in the one tool) sounds like one of these could be useful.

Steve Webb
13-04-12, 09:37
Might have to see where I can get some of the original jubilee clips as well, if a jobs worth doing, its worth doing right.


The original Jubilee clips (http://www.jubileeclips.co.uk/)

AlfaJack
13-04-12, 10:48
Yes, I was making a habit of it for a while.
I would get good quality jubilees. - The factory types can be a pain (ifthey are similar to the OEM water pipe clips that is.

mpampis_
13-04-12, 14:38
i am tired just in the idea to put out the inlet manifold.....it is better to cut the clips and replace them with better and new ones

1NRO
13-04-12, 16:07
A suitable flat bladed screwdriver located under the worm drive (next to the band) and given a belt will split the clip without damaging the hose, no mercy at that stage I say! Takes a bit of practice when you've never done it but once you have the knack no hose clip is safe ;)

jimnielsen
13-04-12, 22:03
I hope that you don't have the original clips sans worm drives... I don't think it is possible to remove them without first removing the manifold - or at least, I was not able to do it...Perhaps you could achieve it easily enough if you just cut the rubber tubes.. but where would you get new ones!? Its much easier ones you reinstall the manifold with clips specifically put in place to ensure easy removal. If you have one of the semi-flexible drivers its quite easy..Even so - I could probably have the engine out before I could remove the manifold out the top..

Steve Webb
17-04-12, 19:53
Well the real motive for getting the old manifold off is that I've got a Kappa manifold on its way to me now. :thumbsup: so shouldn't need to put the old one back on.

Just as an aside, wouldn't it be possible to replace the original rubbers with silicon ones the correct diameter. Surely it can't be that hard to get replacements for a straight piece of tube.

Suzumushi
17-04-12, 20:15
Well the real motive for getting the old manifold off is that I've got a Kappa manifold on its way to me now. :thumbsup: so shouldn't need to put the old one back on.

Just as an aside, wouldn't it be possible to replace the original rubbers with silicon ones the correct diameter. Surely it can't be that hard to get replacements for a straight piece of tube.

Steve, could You make some photo "how to" when replacing mainfod ?
i'm also inerested in such mod, and would like to do it myself.

regards

1NRO
17-04-12, 20:45
Cool, a kappa is a good move from standard. Will you consider having the car remapped?

The inside of the rubber spacers are stepped to provide a smooth transition between the two cast parts. A silicon hose wouldn't have that unless especially made for the purpose.

Evodelta
17-04-12, 20:48
Just as an aside, wouldn't it be possible to replace the original rubbers with silicon ones the correct diameter. Surely it can't be that hard to get replacements for a straight piece of tube.

No i'm afraid not, the OE manifolds have a groove in them which a ridge on the rubber locates into.

Steve Webb
18-04-12, 07:05
Cool, a kappa is a good move from standard. Will you consider having the car remapped?



Cheers, the car is already running an Evocars chip that was written whilst the car was on a rolling road. Will it make much difference to get it mapped again?

Steve Webb
18-04-12, 07:08
No i'm afraid not, the OE manifolds have a groove in them which a ridge on the rubber locates into.

Ahh, of course nothing is that simple is it. I guess I'll be trying extra hard to get the clips off then.

As an alternative, would it be possible to use a straight tube as a replacement, but with an insert the same internal diameter as the manifold and head to get the same effect as the stepped rubber connector?

1NRO
18-04-12, 07:42
Cheers, the car is already running an Evocars chip that was written whilst the car was on a rolling road. Will it make much difference to get it mapped again?

Without a doubt, more air needs more fuel!

mpampis_
18-04-12, 08:36
Well do you remember what afr this evocars chip has in your engine? There is no so much difference and if the chip you have is a bit rich (about 11 afr) you will be ok. You could increase the fuel pressure a bit for being sure ( it is safe up to 3.4 bar at idle)

Steve Webb
18-04-12, 08:48
Well I think I'll up the fuel pressure to be on the safe side, its running 2.5bar when primed at the moment. Then possible time to think about a wideband lambda to keep a better check on the AFR.

mpampis_
18-04-12, 09:21
If you can check the afr after fitting the kappa manifold, increase the fuel pressure until you have 11 afr. I run with 11 afr as more safe. With 11.5 you will have a bit more power but you never know when you will have poor quality gas from a bad gas station

Evodelta
18-04-12, 11:23
Evocars chips are known for overfuelling, some people have turned the FP down, gained power and economy. A trip to a rolling road with someone who knows what they are doing would be my choice, you can't just guess these things.

mpampis_
18-04-12, 12:14
Something I remember now. If you put kappa manifold you need to modify the fuel rail, otherwise you have to fit kappa's fuel rail that it has 3bar regulator onboard

Steve Webb
18-04-12, 16:01
I'm getting the whole manifold, fuel rail and throttle body so I'll decide when it arrives what and how it all gets fitted. I'll record it all with pics whilst I'm doing it as well.

Hopefully I'll get rid of the A/C pump and do a belt change and replace the water pump at the same time.

mpampis_
18-04-12, 17:29
kappa's throttle body is smaller than ours...it would be better to keep Q4' s oem

Steve Webb
18-04-12, 17:52
Cheers, it was all being sold as a single lot so was included in the price. I'll see if I can sell the kappa throttle body on ebay after.

Steve Webb
25-04-12, 18:47
The manifold and all the other bits arrived today, looks in pretty good condition, and the throttle body looks a lot smaller than the Q4's, will definitely be swapped over.

Question for those that already have one fitted, is the manifold supported anywhere other than the studs to the head?

mpampis_
25-04-12, 20:30
The studs are ok in the head. You have to find a place for the ignition coil. If you want a direct fitting the kappa manifold you have to move everything behind it and of course you have to cut the Mounts on the head of the oem inlet manifold because the injectors won't fit. There where a thread in here that has fotos too. Also if you see my signature's pic you will see the kappa fuel rail and the place I placed the fuel pressure regulator