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Integrale
11-01-12, 20:34
Hello

I am a realy newbe on this. My engine is fitted whit C&B race min cams and adjustable pulley's

Spec:
Part No: LD16.RM1
Camshaft codes: LD16.1090.276C (1)
LD16.088.250C (1)
Application: Race min
Cam Lift IN: 10.9 Cam Lift EX: 8.8
Duration: 276?/250?
Lobe Center Angles:108?/105?
Valve Timing: 30?/66?-50?/20?
Valve lift TDC: 2.1/1.5
Clearance: 0.35/0.40http://cuoresportivo.no/Themes/babylon/images/icons/modify_inline.gif

The engine is running verry bad, is here anyone who can lead me to how to adjust the pulley correct?
IMG_0221.MOV - YouTube
wrinx
11-01-12, 20:54
I've got C&B medium street cams and they were set with marks in line with the original timing marks on the advice of C&B. Do your cams have any marks?

As you've gone for the race cams I would expect the idle to be a bit uneven, which it clearly is, but perhaps your idle valve needs cleaning?

Also, are the clearances set correctly, it sounds very tappety?

wrinx
mpampis_
12-01-12, 04:00
Have you measure the compression inside cylinder? How many bar is the compression to each cylinder?
Steve Webb
12-01-12, 07:21
That does sound very uneven, and it has a noisy top end. What was the engine running like before you swapped the cams over, and like Wrinx said, I'd check your clearances first.
Integrale
12-01-12, 08:12
Hello and thanks for the respons.

I bought the car with the engine modified, this was doen after "advise"/"recipe" from Guy croft. The compression is lowered, new pistons and all bearings.Pistons 85mm 7.2:1 and Perfect circle pistons ring's. The headgasket orderd from Walker was wrong and its mounted in 1.6mm thick, this lowered the compresion even more.

But still it was not running nice but ok. It was bad on idle and if you held the gas pedal in same position for a long time it was jerking (if thats the right word):thinking-011:

Now its bad on all revs. I have put on new bigger turbo, 3" exhaust, tublar manifold and new intercooler. Also removed EGR system.

When they mounted the new adjustable pully's, the timing was just done by eye. So the seller said I have to fine adjust that later on.

I will check if the cam have marks. The compression I have not check, but could do that to night.
bravo155ts
12-01-12, 11:59
I have C&B Medium street cams and Castelli chip on my 155 1.8TS 16V. On idle without the a/c switched on, the engine sounds a bit lumpy and doesn't idle well but does not cut out. But with the a/c switched on the engine idles just fine. I reckon these cams perform that way. The only way to tell if your cam settings are way off is if the car has no power at all. Other than that, you may have to dismantle the block and re-do the whole thing again. Before you take off the cams, make sure you have them C&B cam lock.
Integrale
12-01-12, 16:23
So it is possible to get hold on cam locks for C&B cams? Anybody know where?

I have got the cam cover off and when the TDC mark on crankshaft is right, the exhuast pully is one tooth wrong. But I don't know where the camshaft should be position due to it is adjustable.
Brul(tm)
12-01-12, 20:05
So it is possible to get hold on cam locks for C&B cams? Anybody know where?

There aren't any....
Juan AR155Q4
12-01-12, 20:45
You'll have to measure with a dial indicator.
They gave you the measure: Valve lift TDC: 2.1/1.5
bravo155ts
13-01-12, 00:05
There aren't any....

Every C&B cam set should come with a cam lock. Unless you bought the cams used, then I reckon the cam lock is with its previous owner. The 155 I bought over a year ago came with C&B cams and the owner passed on the cam lock to me as it had no purpose for him anymore.
Integrale
13-01-12, 09:19
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/htup_1008_adjusting_camshaft_degree/index.html

I read this, and now I think I will manage to do it properly.:thinking-011:
1NRO
13-01-12, 18:39
As mentioned you can do is using lift at TDC with a DTI, remove the cam cover and reference off the shim bucket, you'll need a DTI with a long finger.

Try and exstablish exact TDC on the crank, it makes the vernier pulleys worth having.

Another description though it shows reference off the valve with the head off the engine like you won't do. http://guy-croft.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=213

Another link that shows how to establish crank TDC, you'll need to do it down the plug hole. http://guy-croft.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=104
wrinx
14-01-12, 08:53
Every C&B cam set should come with a cam lock. Unless you bought the cams used, then I reckon the cam lock is with its previous owner. The 155 I bought over a year ago came with C&B cams and the owner passed on the cam lock to me as it had no purpose for him anymore.

Does your camlock fit over the camshafty lobe, if so it sounds like the lock for the original cams.

A bit of research suggests the C&B "camlock" is simply a metal bar which fits into the end of the cam...is this what you have?

http://argiex.homepage.dk/images/alfa_cams/2.jpg
Photo from "Alfaitis" on 156.net - http://forum.alfa156.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22868&PN=0&TPN=2

wrinx
Integrale
31-01-12, 08:46
Yeess, then its running better!! Thanks for the link to Guy Croft, now i know how to do it next time

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUTxY3dFxXw&feature=context&context=C399b4eaADOEgsToPDskJz3yOrfSqRzocJ3DSfZPaf
Integrale
31-01-12, 08:53
Bilde 001 - YouTube
Steve Webb
31-01-12, 09:25
That sounds much smoother now, still a little tappety though.
Integrale
31-01-12, 14:06
That i think is because the mic is bad on the camera. But is'ent racing cam's a bit more tappety anyway? The clearence is measured ok.
gilles27
10-05-13, 16:32
155 Q4 passes antipollution standards with C & B cams minimum corsa?
Integrale
15-05-13, 17:42
155 Q4 passes antipollution standards with C & B cams minimum corsa?

Mine did, but it not the best cam's when it comes to lower rpm's. Verry dead below 3000rpm.