View Full Version : 155 Q4: From Switzerland to Scotland
After owning a 2.0 and a pair of V6 155s I finally took the plunge and bought a Q4!
I headed down from Glasgow to the English south coast to buy this Swiss import from Pavs.....
A train to London, a train to Portsmouth and then this to Gosport.... :D
http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/abcarpix/06102010379.jpg
Then a quick trip up to Gloucester for an MOT. Got through okay apart from an advisory on both the rear subframe mounts and an oil leak.
http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/abcarpix/06102010384.jpg
A stop over at a mate's in Nottingham..... it's a bit more pink/magenta/orange than I'd like, but I'd always expected to have to get it painted eventually anyway.
http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/abcarpix/my%20cars/_DSC8458.jpg
http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/abcarpix/my%20cars/_DSC8456.jpg
http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/abcarpix/my%20cars/_DSC8439.jpg
The next day I find myself up at Sitech Racing for a shoot after doing over 600 miles in less than 24 hours! Sadly the oil leak had gone from bad to worse.... we found out that the plug seals had burst leaving the bores to completely fill up and overflow!
http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/abcarpix/my%20cars/101-1.jpg
http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/abcarpix/my%20cars/_DSC6241.jpg
Got it sorted and the next issue is that the boost is cutting at just under 1 bar. Looks like the boost controller seems to be at fault? Any other ideas about what may be causing this?
Here we have the engine bay...
http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/abcarpix/my%20cars/102_1.jpg
And a crop showing the boost controller which seems to be troublesome...
http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/abcarpix/my%20cars/102-1.jpg
After a quick run with it holding boost up to 0.5 bar ok it all went tits up!
Wouldn't go into second, then lots of banging and crunching etc in third.... coasted back to the garage and left it there for diagnosis. It was moved with no apparent problem today, so whatever is wrong is seemingly intermittent anyway.... :confused:
There is no boost controller in your picture. What I see there is a cam sensor on the exhaust cam.
The part with the blue electrical plug going into it.... not the best angle to see it.
It has a vacuum hose coming from the turbo into it, one going to the actuator and one going into the boost intake hose.
Try looking a bit better, the boost controller itself would be in the car, but the part that replaces the pierburg is at the end of the arrow :biggrin:
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n288/BrulTM/boostcontroller.jpg
Regards,
Marc
Ah it's next to the pink elephant. I see it now.
....the part that replaces the pierburg is at the end of the arrow
What does this part made by Pierburg do?
What does this part made by Pierburg do?
It is just a solenoid to block the air between the turbo and wastegate.
More info:
http://forum.berlinasportivo.org/showthread.php?t=374
What's missing in that thread is why there are limits on the boost. On lower revs, you don't want too much boost because the torque will kill your big-end bearings, clutch and gearbox. Either you upgrade your pistons, con rods and big end bearings, clutch and gearbox, or you keep the torque down to levels that won't bust your engine.
On higher revs, the amount of rpm the turbo has to make to keep the pressure up, will get too high. You will damage the bearings and it will break to bits. There is a very real possibility that the broken bits will be sucked into your engine, damaging much more than just the turbo. The only fix for this is a bigger turbo or one that can handle the revs.
The pierburg valve controls the pressure to the waste gate by opening/closing 10-15 times a second, or not. The amount of periods it's closed/opened will determine the average pressure the waste-gate valve sees (in combination with the amount of boost pressure you have). This will in turn control the amount of opening of the waste gate. Since there is no linear relation between the amount of open/close commands the pierburg gets (the boost pressure is also involved) it's not simple to tune the turbo pressure using the pierburg and the stock ECU. Basically, it requires a lot of test runs and logging before you can "safely" use the pierburg as a boost system on a modified engine. As said, the ECU also uses the reduction of boost pressure as a safety, so not using the factory ECU with the Pierburg will put your engine more at risk. On the other hand, using an electronic boost controller will help you tune the engine a lot faster.
If I ever get to it, I think there is a way to reprogram the IAW to use a different algorithm to control the Pierburg. If that PID algorithm works, you can actually program the requested boost, instead of opening percentage of the valve. It will require complete reverse engineering of the IAW and rewriting the code that controls the Pierburg. Because of the way the IAW works, the code will have to take the exact same amount of time (clock cycles of the CPU) or less, to finish calculations als the original algorithm. Either that, or the algorithm should be split up in parts so they can run in "spare time" in other places in the sequence.
Probably, if you want to fiddle with this reliably yourself, a decent aftermarket ECU is the best/easiest/cheapest way to do it.
I got the same chinese exhaust manifold. And i really would recommend some heat-shielding to the head.
http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/6834/foto0033small.jpg
Also shield the oil-dipstick after that or else it will meld. :cool:
Varypodaros
18-10-10, 17:01
where did you buy from? is there any site?
Looks like a custom build shield.
I am looking for ages now for an original heatshield....
Regards,
Marc
Or, a slightly more subtle shield :)
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Heat%20Shield/Photo0100Medium.jpg
For some reason my manifold was so close to the head it needed spacing out more :(
wrinx
I think Jan's shield wil help keep the hot air from going up and everywhere under the bonnet a bit better. It's probably trivial since it's not a sealed air thing and the turbo is unshielded, but it may just help. Another thing you can do is wrap the manifold and/or ceramic coat it on the outside. Don't coat the inside. If it starts to flake, the flakes will wreck the compressor of your turbo.
Considering they are contained in near sealed units the heat dissipation will be almost zero, the shield I made was purely to *try* and deflect some heat from the head because it's too close imho...no idea if it works :rolleyes:
I have some 6mm metal to make a spacer for the manifold :lol:
wrinx
jimnielsen
20-10-10, 11:13
i had my one ceramic coated on the exterior, it makes an enormous difference to the heat dissipation.
Would wrapping it not being the easiest idea?
And back to my car... Good news! It seems the drivetrain issues are nothing more than a knackered slave cylinder! :lol:
Boost cut issue appears to be more complicated though.... initial diagnosis is a boost leak after the MAP sensor. Apparently it's massively over fueling at high boost at the moment for some reason too.... Soon see what happens!
Varypodaros
21-10-10, 12:54
I asked for the manifold.:)
I asked for the manifold.:)
Mine came with the car! ;)
They were for sale on eBay a while ago. Maybe Jan or someone else that bought one can check if the vendor still sells them?
The last batch (where mine came from) was supposed to be the last lot to be made...no idea if he changed his mind.
He's on the Integrale and Coupe forums...can't recall his name though :oops:
wrinx
This is him...
madlyons@tiscali.co.uk
wrinx
I think Jan may be willing to sell his spare manifold? He has his car plus all spare parts up for sale. I bought his spare turbo because I thought mine was busted.
Would wrapping it not being the easiest idea?
And back to my car... Good news! It seems the drivetrain issues are nothing more than a knackered slave cylinder! :lol:
Boost cut issue appears to be more complicated though.... initial diagnosis is a boost leak after the MAP sensor. Apparently it's massively over fueling at high boost at the moment for some reason too.... Soon see what happens!
Wrapping would work too, but is a less permanent solution than ceramic coating. I think all 3 solutions have their merit and may work well combined. Not shielding the manifold will cook the oil and coolant in your cylinder head at the exhaust side. Needless to say, that will not be beneficial to the engine.
Good to hear that your clutch cylinder will most likely be the only problem in your drive line.
Regarding the over-fueling. Since you have an aftermarket boost controller and who knows what chip in there, I would recommend you go back to a stock setup, just to see if that cures the problem. If it doesn't, you have the unknown factors out of the problem and you can do a "traditional" fault diagnosis. Once everything is okay, you can put the boost controller and chip back in.
I indeed have a spare manifold laying around.
Probably one of the last ones.
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/3948/foto426i.jpg
I've completely forgot to update this thread over the years!
Anyway, here's the best bit from the past 4 years...
http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/abcarpix/IMG_0555.jpg
http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/abcarpix/IMG_0408.jpg
http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/abcarpix/117584.jpg
The worst bit being the last year in which it was at a garage for a year....
But now I've Ffinally got the Q4 MOT'd, taxed and back on the road!
It had been away for ages to have a lot of issues seen too.... Still not 100%, but it had been off the road so long that we decided to just get it back up and running instead of it being the constantly forgotten car that was evolving into a project it shouldn't have been.
So it's had a ton of wiring fixes and various other things like an airbox fabricated for an induction kit, but it's still very much a running project.
Time to get some miles on it, and pinpoint any niggles. Want to get it painted this year for sure....
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1607124_10152567873153135_2000290763_n.jpg
One thing that still really needs seen to is it's cold start.
It starts then dies, then goes ok.... think it's a bit rich all round too.
I've heard that the Weber Marelli P8 has a reset function which is a good place to start with these types of issues. Anyone know it? I can only find the Escort Cosworth procedure when I google it... Sure it's similar, but don't want to mess it up!
One thing that still really needs seen to is it's cold start.
It starts then dies, then goes ok.... think it's a bit rich all round too.
Are you still running the Evo Chip, I think that causes rich running and cold start problems?
wrinx
Are you still running the Evo Chip, I think that causes rich running and cold start problems?
wrinx
Yeah that chip. Any more info on that issue?
Anyone know how to reset the ECU?
Anyone know how to reset the ECU?
Disconnect the battery and leave the car alone for a little while :thumb:
Yeah that chip. Any more info on that issue?
Anyone know how to reset the ECU?
Only that's it is known for cold starting issues and overfuelling too iirc. If you have the original chip I'd swap them and see if there's any difference.
wrinx
I did have it... god knows where it is now!
Also it's had the battery disconnected several times, but I've been told P8 can be reset in another way.
Not sure if the ECU's adaptive learning would be reset by simply removing the power?
Nice to see it nearly sorted bud, what did you do with the speed lines ? Bud
Nice to see it nearly sorted bud, what did you do with the speed lines ? Bud
Still got them tucked away. Too small for the brakes I've got on it now anyway.
The Q4's exhaust is looking a lot healthier and simpler now that 'Simon's Custom Exhausts' has seen to it.
Sure it sounds better as well.... tomorrow will tell!
http://imageshack.com/a/img32/1277/yqkv.jpg
Ade, what are those wheels you've got on there?
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.