View Full Version : What have you done for her lately?
It has been very quite here lately....I guess we're all tinkering with the Q4s. We have this thread on alfa155.org and it is a good way of sharing bits of info.
So, for the past week or two my Q4 has been in the garage whilst I am trying to change the steering rack for the new one I picked up a few years back...it is about 20mm too big to be removed easily so all subframe bolts had to come out and the engine lowered after removing the 3 gearbox mount bolts on the left. Nearly done now.
Next jobs...get 2 new tyres and fix the oil leak which I suspect is from a loose breather pipe behind the exhaust manifold.
I am waiting for her to come back from a workshop where a roll cage is being installed...
Soon will come time for a mapping session on a rolling road :)
For the SZ...changed the timing belt and made a longer bonnet prop.
For the Q4...nothing :( It's hiding under a tarpaulin :( It needs welding :(
For the JTD...bought a new dual mass flywheel and clutch...EXPENSIVE!!!
Will be fitting it soon....
wrinx
I bought a lot of tools and am clearing out the workshop. Once that's done, I will be swapping an engine in the 2.5 and do the welding on the 3.0. The other cars will be needing their maintenance in the mean time as well, but right now preparing the workshop is the most important thing on the list.
jimnielsen
14-08-10, 23:21
I am in the middle of preparing a new workshop as well! I need more space! After it complete I am going to move my hoist from the old work shop (about 100 meters). In the new location I will have approx 20mx20m of space - enough for my Q4!
Speaking of the Q4, It finally wore out the racing slicks that I had bought for it, so I need to get some new ones before I can run the car at Sandown next month, also I have just repaired one of the front wishbone bushes.
I was going to get a more sophisticated boost controller for the Q4, but as they are quite expensive, I have decided to get a complete new ECU instead that will also perform this function as well. I have decided to go with the Autronic SM4. I will put it in in late summer after the racing season is over. I am sure that it will involve a LOT of pain before I see any gains from the process....
If people are interested, I will document the process on this site.
cheers, jim
Yes, please do document it.
Finally finished the steering rack and had the tracking setup :)
in the last weeks:
interior mods: new checkpanel, the clock was shot, AEM wideband installed, Mbquart speakers installed.
Mechanical:
3" exhaust
255lph fuel pump
electronic shocks repaired and working
alternator fixed.
steering rack repaired.
after that, only racing at the track.
http://a.imageshack.us/img824/3618/40875140964972609896124.jpg
RMB-Racing
22-08-10, 20:09
I have changed my 2,5 V6 engine in my 166, to a 3,0 V6 with lower mileage, and also the 5 shift gearbox to a 6 shift gearbox.
It has just been mapped last week, with a result of 247,6 Bhp at 7047 rpm, and 278,1 NM at 5175 rpm.
Then I have had a major cleanup in my workshop - new painting, new relocation off all the stuff in the shelfs - so now the workshop is nice clean and tidy - and ready to my 75 3,0 V6.
The 75 is going to be transformed into a rally/race car. I will use the winter on this quite lowbudget project.
Oh - and by the way - my Q4 is still at the bodyworkshop, waiting to get rid of all the damned rust.
But I?m not in any hurry... :smile:
Steve Webb
22-08-10, 20:52
I went down into the garage, checked all the levels and started her up for the first time in 6 months. Started on the first twist of the key. Just need to get new clutch master and slave cylinders. And from the sounds of it a new water pump.
And due to the fact the cambelt hasn't been changed in 6 years, but less than 1000 miles, I better get that changed as well.
Still at least it started on the button, and made good oil pressure.
Tried to quickly swap the turbo in front of the house, concluded it's not a 1 hr job and put it back on. Checked every connection and hose I could find, fixed a few, went for a test drive. She's better, but still low on oil pressure when she warms up and lacking power over 4000 rpm. I guess I have to take her to the workshop and swap the turbo there.
Whizz....is this on a Q4? If so, didn't know you had one - thought you were a V6 man...?
As for my car..I got a couple of Uniroyal Rainsport 2s fitted.
Next job is the home full body respray....lots of potential mishaps due along the way!
Whizz....is this on a Q4? If so, didn't know you had one - thought you were a V6 man...?
Mmm...same question here???
Noticed you'd been a bit secretive about a car on 155.org.
wrinx
:tasty:
I have indeed acquired my very own money pit in the classic color AR130 multi-rosso. Sssh! She needs TLC before I can drive her around so I'm not announcing her yet.
Lol...well congrats on buying a money pit :)
:tasty:
I have indeed acquired my very own money pit...
That's torn it...your wallet that is!
Keep us updated ;)
wrinx
Will do. Hopefully I'll bolt a turbo on this weekend and that should take care of the low oil pressure problem. If not, I'll need to inspect my crankshaft and big end bearings....
Argh! The turbo is fine, but there's this greyish putty on the bottom of the sump. I'm going to try to see if I can get the oil pressure high enough to dare drive it to the MOT and have it tested. That way, I don't have to SORN it (Dutch names are different, but the principle is the same). I wonder how well 20W50 will work....
Other than that, I put a spring on the brake bias valve, scraped rust and loose bottom protection off, welded the right footwell protector back on, put fertan on all the spots and after that epoxy primer.
I hope to start her again tomorrow, let's see if she's at least fit enough to get a test so I can start gathering bits to build a fresh engine without being in a terrible rush. I have already sourced a good head with the 155 BHP atmospherical cams in it. :)
You're starting off well, just like me :lol:
wrinx
Tried to get her home today, decided against it, too much noise from at least one big-end.
Totally unrelated to the money pit:
http://www.alfa155club.nl/~homme/Afb0156.jpg
Engine swap on my blu spazio V6. The old engine is out, the new one already has a dry tensioner and a fresh belt on it. Tomorrow I'll move all ancillaries and the gear box etc. to the new engine, probably hoist it in the car again and see how far I'll get hooking it up again.
Most recently modification on my car:
http://www1.garaget.org/archive/53/52241/123447/123447-2059255.jpg
Drove the fist few meters with the spazio. It's still SORN so only on private property, but it was good to be behind the steering wheel once again.
She still needs a list of things done before I can MOT her again, but I'm confident I can have that done before october 1st, which is when I plan to put her back on the road.
After that it's more cleaning out the workshop, so I can do more cars without having to "borrow" my workshop buddies' lift.
Today I checked both rear calipers for movement - they both seem fine. Also checked and re-adjusted the rear brakes compensator which also seemed OK. I used the 5KG weight as described in the manual plus a bit more.
Something is not right though as after a 4 mile drive and normal braking from 30 or 40mph one rear disk I could touch and keep my finger on - was not warm at all. The other was hotter but could still keep my finger on it for a few seconds, also both are rusty which is what prompted me to check them.
Any ideas?
I saw that the arm was moving on the compensator but didn't think to check the little piston it pushes against - I will do so tomorrow. At the moment it is sticking out about 10mm or so.
Steve Webb
26-09-10, 14:36
Sounds like the slide bolts are seized up Jack, had the same thing happen to me a while back. New mounting bracket time I think.
They seem OK - I have had it too causing a pad wear down to the metal. I looked at the bias unit again and got my dad to stand on the brakes and there was very little movement from it - only a few mm. Not sure if this is right or not. I think I will order the other two braided hoses that connect across the rear swing arm as a matter of precaution. However I don't think they are stick on at all. Perhaps I need to strip down the calipers if I can not make any sense of the bias unit.
I think you already answered your own post. The rear compensator is probably stuck internally. You can take the rubber boot off after you've removed the spring. The arm can hang down. You now see a single pin with a washer on it. That should just come out if you pull it. Now there are 2 pins, normally operated by the washer. These are for the left and right wheels. Most likely, these are stuck and need some motivation and/or lubrication. They should go in, depressing the pedal should push them out again. Don't whack them too hard with a hammer, you don't want them deformed, just liberated. Make sure you put plenty of lithium grease or equivalent on the pins/ring and inside the rubber boot. This will help prevent seizing and is done in the factory as well.
Cheers Whizz. I will give that a go :)
I checked the two pins either side of the rod and they appear to move. I forgot to get someone to stand on the brakes to push them out but I did try pulling them with long nose pliers. They did come out a short way but but I could not keep a good enough grip on them and once the pliers snapped off the pins went back in again. They did not seem seized up though.
Anyway, I will have it off the car soon to check again as I am going to copper pipe the whole rear end brake lines as one of the pipes looks very suspect with corrosion.
If the pins moved and the larger pin can move freely, you should be okay. Just make sure the spring is tensioned enough so the pins don't get pushed out without it giving resistance. The official way to adjust it, is to put the car on a 4 point lift and use a 5 kg weight hanging from the hole in the pivot arm. Most people I know put either more weight on, or even just tighten it way harder without any weight on. This will move the brake balance further back. You could risk the rear end blocking earlier and spinning the car while braking hard if you overdo it.
If the spring is worn/stretched, you could heat it red hot and bend it. Then quench it in cold water. If you try to bend it cold, it will snap.
I broke an adjuster last friday. I tried to get the pin for the pivot arm out and managed to break the cast iron part. Now I have to replace it and I don't have a proper flange tool for cunifer brake lines. I think I might just go and get a length of copper so I can do a makeshift version if I break any lines while replacing....
Sourced some vernier pulleys and an integrale elbow on the bay.
I have to finish and sell a 145 to get funds to pay for an engine (in bits) reserved for me. This engine still needs building, but with 3 blocks, 2 cranks, a 16V NA head with NA cams, new pistons, 2 sets of conrods, 2 oil pumps I'm sure I'll be able to get one running engine out of it. I'm not keeping both of the NA cams in, planning on putting the inlet cam from the engine that's in it now as exhaust. Combined with a flowed, refurbished original turbo with the 'grale elbow, flowed head, other cams, 250+ bhp should be achievable.
I got my new daily driver MOTed yesterday. It's a 1996 bianco argento 2.0 16V TS, with a Vialle liquid LPG injection system, koni yellows, leather interior and cat-cams fast road cams in it. It still needs work to be a decent car, but at least it's legal to drive it now.
Think I may have fixed the hesitation I have had for a while....it could have been from the FPR to inlet manifold vacuum pipe cracking and then completely snapping.
Fixed it and it drove nicely in the few miles I did afterwards - will see how it goes.
Fingers crossed :)
Me...I put the cover back on after the wind blew it off the other day :(
Still, was nice to see the old girl again...
wrinx
Steve Webb
25-01-11, 10:39
Still battling with my clutch master and slave cylinders, or should I say the pipe between the 2. Taking out the Air-con and all associated pipework has freed up a whole heap of space under the bonnet which is making life easier though.
Steve Webb
30-01-11, 22:49
Quiet in here recently? Everyone got oily hands or depressed by the new year and the weather?
Steve Webb
20-02-11, 15:41
As much aircon has come out as I can manage with the head on, the clutch is now operational again, and there are no fluid leaks. Hurrah!!
Just got to sort out the bonnet release cable now.
i have left my bella on the mechanic for some paint work, needs to paint one door and polish all the body, i want she looks shinny on 17th april because i have a track day with my friends of the Alfa Corse Club ;)
P.S. i've also ordered a new set of brake pads (EBC Bluestuff) and a new steering wheel (Momo suede 78)
Steve Webb
21-02-11, 23:26
My fuel pressure gauge and matching voltmeter arrived today, so hopefully I'll get some time to get them mounted and wired in this week.
The voltmeter will be no problem, but a T piece is needed for the pressure sender.
Steve Webb
27-02-11, 20:40
Well both gauges are fitted, but only the voltmeter is plugged in at the moment. Also tried measuring the capacity of the old Aircon rad for my chargecooler idea, but I'm thinking the pipework is too small to flow the amount of water needed.
Cleened the wiper motor inside.
And the wipers working fine...
Steve Webb
01-03-11, 10:47
Cleened the wiper motor inside.
And the wipers working fine...
Ahh, that old problem. Been a while since thats been brought up.
Did you touch up the corner of the bonnet where they have been rubbing as well?
Ahh, that old problem. Been a while since thats been brought up.
Did you touch up the corner of the bonnet where they have been rubbing as well?
Yes.
I use my angelgrinder and take avay material from the wiperarm.
The wiperarm and my hood is resprayed.
Many cars have this problem, odd... :-(
Steve Webb
09-03-11, 22:56
Another box from Demon Tweeks arrived today so it look like I've got all the bits to finally get the fuel pressure gauge installed, and make a start on the bonnet catches, which feel pretty decent quality.
We've changed the valve cover gasket (Victor Reinz) with my mechanic today because there was some oil leaking.
The 2 oil pipe to the oilcooler is leaking too so the next change will be that.
Steve Webb
13-03-11, 11:44
Careful with those oilcooler pipes, they have got a habit of being threadlocked on and can damage the oilcooler when you try to get them off.
Steve Webb
13-03-11, 19:54
Today I finally got the fuel pressure gauge all plumbed in. Not 100% happy with the install and position of the sender but I'll take another look at that.
I also managed to re-route my boost gauge pipework, so all in all a good day in the garage.
The only downside is one of my little helpers (Cat) has gone missing. :cry:
Steve Webb
29-03-11, 09:25
Everyone is pretty quiet at the moment, too busy in the garage or like me the spring has brought too many other jobs around the house to get down in the garage and play?
Nice little job last weekend involved replacing the top whibones on my 156...it's now a lovely knock free drive :cool:
Need to replace the SZs rear inboard brakes at some point...but more importantly, find the coolant leak :roll:
wrinx
Steve Webb
29-03-11, 20:06
Nice little job last weekend involved replacing the top whibones on my 156...it's now a lovely knock free drive :cool:
Need to replace the SZs rear inboard brakes at some point...but more importantly, find the coolant leak :roll:
wrinx
Just the pads or do you need to do the disks as well?
Inboards, nice idea in theory, bitch for maintenance.
Not sure without checking thicknesses...but I'm not rushing to do it!
wrinx
Steve Webb
30-03-11, 20:39
The more I do on the car the more I lust after a set of ramps to be able to get under the car properly.
I need to re-hang the exhaust as its sagging and is far too close to the ground in a couple of places. Doing it on axle stands is a massive ball ache, which is the reason i've been putting it off for so long.
I've been lusting after a set of hydraulic ramps which raise the car nearly a metre....very useful.
wrinx
Steve Webb
14-01-12, 19:02
Not for any car in particular, but have been clearing out the garage today, getting rid of a whole load of junk that has built up recently. Also started stripping the rest of the bits out of the 500 so I can see about getting rid of the shell.
2x new drop links - what buggers to fit...the thread does not seem to come through the hole in the wishbone centrally. Used a bottle jack in the end to push the nut and washer up compressing the lower bush to get the nut on to the threads.
Also, took the cam cover off and ran a line of sealant along the lower edge in an attempt to stop oil leaking on to the manifold.
I bent the slider plates on the brembos down a bit so the pads can't rock in the caliper and clonk when braking from reversing. This in turn has stopped the squeal and the very weird problem of the abs cutting in at the very last second of a slow stop.
Lastly, refitted the wind deflectors and swapped the heater fan resistor (the original was corroded from water coming in) - glad I have a spare which has a complete metal casing rather than the plastic of the original - I presume this is a later version - lucky to have it as they are getting hard to come by.
I've been lusting after a set of hydraulic ramps which raise the car nearly a metre....very useful.
wrinx
Nearly there by the sounds of it on 155.org...:cool:
bravo155ts
16-01-12, 11:01
Cam belt change, water pump, sensors, mounts & brake master pump.
Costed a bomb but it needed to be done.
Safe than sorry :)
What is the parts supply like in Malaysia?
Steve Webb
16-01-12, 13:03
Finally got round to stripping everything from the shell of the 500 last night. Just left with a big box of bits and a rather sorry looking shell stood on blocks of wood.
Everything is now up on eBay, including the Citroen, so hopefully I will have space in the garage soon, ready for when (if) if find a GTV.
bravo155ts
16-01-12, 13:35
Safe than sorry :)
What is the parts supply like in Malaysia?
Engine parts are aplenty. No problems finding used engine blocks for the 1.8TS 16V and 2L TS 16V. Not many 2.5 V6 though.
The only problem is body parts especially side mirrors for RHD version.
bravo155ts
16-01-12, 13:38
Finally got round to stripping everything from the shell of the 500 last night. Just left with a big box of bits and a rather sorry looking shell stood on blocks of wood.
Everything is now up on eBay, including the Citroen, so hopefully I will have space in the garage soon, ready for when (if) if find a GTV.
Steve, I might have a friend who'd be interested to purchase some parts for the 500. Lemme email him and ask and I'll get back to you.
Cheers!
Nearly there by the sounds of it on 155.org...:cool:
Yess :lol:
Although i'm now lusting after a full size ramp :lol:
In the meantime, I've ripped of both rear quarter in preparation for some welding...
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Rear%20Arches/Q4wing03.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Rear%20Arches/nearside.jpg
wrinx
Steve Webb
16-01-12, 18:43
Have you been parking it in the sea Wrinx?
:lol: Funny you should say that, the previous owner lived in Southampton and it was there for several years.
But I think this is the fate awaiting most UK 155s...you just have to catch it early enough.
wrinx
Steve Webb
17-01-12, 17:47
I always get asked if mine ever lived by the sea because of the rust on it, but the rust was always just on the underside, not the body panels. I assume its because it was used all year round including the winter with all the salt on the roads.
Steve Webb
17-01-12, 17:49
Steve, I might have a friend who'd be interested to purchase some parts for the 500. Lemme email him and ask and I'll get back to you.
Cheers!
This is all thats left of the 500, apart from the shell, which surprisingly has got quite a bit of interest!!
500 Parts (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220933649628?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649#ht_500wt_1057)
Oh and the windscreen is available as well.
Steve Webb
17-02-12, 20:55
Now that the freezing weather seems to have disappeared for a while I'm planning on getting down to the garage tomorrow tomorrow and getting the Q4 all back together. Its been in bits for far too long now.
It looks like the 500 shell has been sold as well so I'll be getting some space back as well.
jimnielsen
18-02-12, 00:02
That rust is amazing!
Not from where I'm looking it isn't :lol:
The affects of the UK climate :(
wrinx
Steve Webb
18-02-12, 08:44
The affects of the UK climate :(
Look on the bright side, with all this global warming, soon they won't need to be putting all that salt on the roads. :lol-052:
Can't come soon enough :lol:
It'd be better if we all went onto winter tyres imho, daft idea sticking loads of salt on the roads, it just makes a mess :roll:
wrinx
Steve Webb
19-02-12, 18:31
Well its all back together now, even moved it out of the garage. Started first time as well, after I'd remembered to shut off the immobiliser. :doh:
Needs a bit of a dust off though.
http://www.berlinasportivo.com/forumpics/q42012.jpg
http://www.berlinasportivo.com/forumpics/q42012a.jpg
The water pump is sounding decidedly rough as well. Time to pull it all apart again to do the belts and pump.
jimnielsen
21-02-12, 01:43
Looks great - just needs a wash -and no snow now!
I was a bit lucky to find this today. Luckily I bought a new one about 4 years ago and never got round to fitting it!
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/23389.jpg
Also, removed the fan, found a well past it radiator :(
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/23391.jpg
I then proceeded to take off the exhaust manifold to fix a breather leak - it has been coating the block in oil for years and have finally done something about it!
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/23394.jpg
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/23393.jpg
Lastly, I shot blast the dip stick tube and the panel that the radiator sits in. It has now been etch primed and primed ready for a bit of colour.
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/23395.jpg
Steve Webb
11-05-12, 19:41
Working on the car on a school day? Are you in someones good books?
Working on the car on a school day? Are you in someones good books?
I booked 3 Fridays off work - MX5 took out the first one. Q4 took the second. The heat is on for the 3rd and final day next week. MX fecking 5 rear caliper is jammed on now!!
Steve Webb
25-05-12, 11:53
MX fecking 5 rear caliper is jammed on now!!
Are you sure its a real MX5? I thought they never went wrong / were the best car in the world, if you speak to some people.
Are you sure its a real MX5? I thought they never went wrong / were the best car in the world, if you speak to some people.
Yeah the brakes are its weakness. The only other thing was a water temp sensor. Had it about 3 or 4 years now and no major dramas......Should I have said that!?
Steve Webb
25-05-12, 12:30
Had it about 3 or 4 years now and no major dramas......Should I have said that!?
Well its a nice day for a walk when it lets you down tonight\this weekend/ :nahnahna:
After having it's bumps read the Q4 is demanding more attention, bought it an idle actuator valve and a pair of coilpacks so far...then attempted to remove the old coil packs...what joy!
Might chuck some more plug leads on too...whilst I'm in the area :roll:
wrinx
Steve Webb
30-07-12, 10:50
Not a particularly interesting job, but one that was well over due. Swapped the cambelt and bearings on the Disco on Sunday, the specified interval is 72,000 miles, and as far as I know this one has been on for about 77,000!
Should really have done it before now but things have conspired against me, not least getting the crank pulley bolt undone. Its a 27mm bolt, which ought to give you an idea of the problem already, and it is done up bloody tight. Had to bite the bullet and get a crank locking tool for the job as because the car is an Auto, you can't stick it in gear and have someone stand on the brakes to try and lock the crank.
Getting the bolt undone wasn't too bad after this, well not once I'd found a piece of pipe about 1m long to slip over the breaker bar. Still required a hell of a tug, and the bar was looking like it was beginning to bend. I guess I need to invest in a 3/4" socket set.
Once the timing cover was off, I was quite frankly amazed at the condition of the belt, and in a good way. Bear in mind that this belt has been on for 6 years at least and covered 77,000 miles:
http://www.berlinasportivo.com/forumpics/disco/cover.jpg
The timing belt cover was remarkably clean and dust free.
http://www.berlinasportivo.com/forumpics/disco/belt.jpg
The belt looks pretty mark free, no fraying at all.
http://www.berlinasportivo.com/forumpics/disco/beltrun.jpg
Almost factory fresh!
There was a little wear in the tensioner and idler bearing but not much. It all went back together fine and started up no problem.
Looks a nice simple job.
Nicely sealed away from the elements too with that cover....well I guess they are designed to go deep in rivers!
Steve Webb
30-07-12, 12:40
Yep, with the radiator our of the car, which was infact 1/3 covered with dead moths/flies, leaves etc, access to the front of the engine is excellent. Its just that 27mm bolt that can cause problems.
There is a drain hole at the bottom which is threaded so you can screw a plug into if you ever go wading in deep water. Not sure this car has ever been used in deep water to tell the truth.
Steve Webb
07-08-12, 22:43
Cock!!
I faulty belt = 8 bent pushrods, a cracked rocker arm, mangled crank pulley and a tow home by a mate with another Disco.
Luckily all the bits are cheap enough, and its not going to be too bad a job to put it all right.
Poo! Any chance of a claim against the Belt vendor/manufacturer?
wrinx
Steve Webb
08-08-12, 08:40
Poo! Any chance of a claim against the Belt vendor/manufacturer?
wrinx
Doubtful as there really isn't much of the belt left. It wrapped itself around the crank pulley and I needed to pretty much cut it off. Genuine Land Rover belt is on order now.
I was out clambering over the engine till about 11pm last night checking things. Luckily I don't need to cart much about over the next few days.
The annoying thing is, given the condition of the old belt, it would have lasted a couple more years if I hadn't done anything!
Got Minty ready for NAD
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/anydoo/tday4.jpg
Steve Webb
12-08-12, 12:38
Got Minty ready for NAD
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/anydoo/tday4.jpg
What was the prep? Air in tyres and charge the battery? :thumb:
Steve Webb
12-08-12, 12:41
Well the Land Rover lives again. Changed the belt, crank pulley and front oil seal last night. This morning was the new rocker are and push-rods. The only worry was when I noticed that 2 of the valve stem caps were MIA. 10 minutes of me sat on top of the engine with a lamp and pearl catchers sorted that one out.
Set the valve clearances and it started first twist of the key. Sounds far quieter now. Just off to fill it up with some diesel and give it a test drive.
Fingers crossed.
Nice work Steve :cool:
I think Van's prep was to put petrol in it! :lol-030:
Yess :lol:
Although i'm now lusting after a full size ramp :lol:
In the meantime, I've ripped of both rear quarter in preparation for some welding...
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Rear%20Arches/Q4wing03.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Rear%20Arches/nearside.jpg
wrinx
:O oh my word! .... i think you should have just left those rear quarters alone mr wrinx !! ;)
Unbelievable , I hate that rust...could it be sorted out anymore ?!:ohmy:
Unbelievable , I hate that rust...could it be sorted out anymore ?!:ohmy:
In other terms...last night I've managed to mount the PU bushes I was preparing to from 1 month. Haven't tested yet and still have to go for wheel alignement. Short-shift still not in...:tongue:
I've changed the rear springs with the D2 ones, also have set rear dampers to max hard...still not stiff enough. The 8j x 17" Comps still don't have enough space when rear fenders have to get down on bumps. I have to find stiffer rear springs, maybe first I will try with cutted OEM ones to see how it works. I will search also other solutions in the mean time and will let you know the final result.
Cheers,
Cris.
Unbelievable , I hate that rust...could it be sorted out anymore ?!:ohmy:
In other terms...last night I've managed to mount the PU bushes I was preparing to from 1 month. Haven't tested yet and still have to go for wheel alignement. Short-shift still not in...:tongue:
Looks good Cris.
It is a job I have wanted to do for years!
Steve Webb
16-08-12, 11:38
In other terms...last night I've managed to mount the PU bushes I was preparing to from 1 month. Haven't tested yet and still have to go for wheel alignement.
Were they reasonably new wishbones, and were the ball joints in good condition?
Juan AR155Q4
21-09-15, 15:45
Well, let's try to wake up a littel.
A couple of weeks ago, I 've changed the clutch. Also repaired the steering box, and put a new gasket in the crankcase.
Obviusly taking out the gearbox was really a pain.
Holy thread resurrection! :lol:
wrinx
Steve Webb
22-06-17, 19:14
Time to resurrect this thread again.
Not strictly me doing it, but the Q4 has almost got its new subframe, fuel tank straps, and a coating of underseal. Just a small amount of welding too.
2792
2793
Rebuilding the exhaust... Still have the breakproblem and the mysterius waterleek...
Steve Webb
28-06-17, 20:44
What have you done with the Exhaust? Thats next on the list for mine after I've got it back on the road.
Finally got a chance to look at the car tonight. I couldn't find the ABS diagnostic plug anywhere (any tips appreciated) but i did find a crushed sensor wire under a bracket which may have been shorting. I have done a quick test fix with some lever connectors that I had laying around (been installing some garden lighting lately).
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/35052.jpg
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/35053.jpg
Hopefully I will be able to give it a test tomorrow.
Also, I may have found my leaking PS fluid - the union in to the pump was a touch loose so nipped that up.
Steve Webb
03-07-17, 12:10
So did that fix it AlfaJack ?
I (briefly) had a 33 P4 that had a power steering leak that made the previous owner remove the belt for the pump and drain the fluid. Turned out the leak was just lose connection between a couple of pipes. New belt, new fluid and a tighten on the connection and power steering restored.
I have only driven about 10-15 miles and did not have any random ABS intervention so I hope it is fixed. I will have to make a more permanent solution soon.
I have not checked the PS for further leaks as yet - just have to hope! It did sound a bit whiny but it may still be a touch low in fluid after it re-bled through.
What have you done with the Exhaust? Thats next on the list for mine after I've got it back on the road.
Oops, still havent fix it but Im building a 2,5" exhaust with racecat and 3" downpipe, all in stainless steel. I havent done annything in a year. :blush:
2807
A few updates. Inlet all back together after changing the gearbox link bushes and the PS pipes and a gearbox oil change):
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/35799.jpg
Handbrake cables removed for renewal along with all the wheels (one of which was seized up):
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/35800.jpg
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/35801.jpg
Next up, removal of prop shaft to replace middle support rubber with some Sikaflex 252 and possibly the bearing:
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/35802.jpg
This nut was finger tight!
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/35803.jpg
Chop off the old rubber:
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/35804.jpg
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/35805.jpg
Cleaned up lower gearbox support (absolutely caked in oily crud):
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/35807.jpg
These bushes are a bit suspect - not sure whether to look for a replacement or not. Its a really easy job so I may try and film it with a mini camera whilst driving and see how they flex under load.
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/35808.jpg
Whilst waiting for the rust converter to dry in and around the rear jacking points I took the fan and exhaust manifold off to get to a leaking oil vapour drain which has been leaking for many years now - it looks like the seal had been crushed:
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/35823.jpg
New seals are on the way:
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/35824.jpg
On the fan, whilst moving this wire a bit of the insulation just pinged off:
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/35825.jpg
Being repaired (I may put a bit of glue around the base too as I can see moisture creeping in otherwise):
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/35826.jpg
The heat shield got a bit mangled - will be looking for some foil insulation to fix this:
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/35827.jpg
The frame for the fan was very crusty too so that's all be cleaned up for painting.
Worst news was that the turbo shaft has quite a lot of play - not enough for it to touch the housing but it won't be long. It might also explain why it can be a bit smokey on full throttle, hoever the inlet/outlet are completely oil free but it has had about 5 months to drain away!
A rebuild kit and send away for balancing isn't too expensive so will address that now.
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/35828.jpg
Steve Webb
20-01-18, 18:49
Perfect example of how one job leads to another when trying to do anything on a Q4, we all must be mad, but personally I think they are worth it.
Steve Webb
16-03-18, 18:10
Got fed up doing the commute in the boring Audi, so decided to take the Q4 today for a laugh, then on the way home stopped off at the tame hand car wash. If the weather behaves this weekend I'm going to break out polisher and give the paintwork a once over.
2948
No well behaved weather round here...snow and hail all day!
Still, it meant I had the chance to take my other Q4 out in the snow and play around with the rear end a little :cool:
Damn, 4wd is impressive!
wrinx
The Q4 in the snow is great fun and quite controllable. We have a 4WD Ford Kuga but by default it spends 90% of its life in FWD only. We live on a very unmade road so has been fairly useful lately.
159 is RWD bias, I think the 155 too...lots of fun :cool:
wrinx
Yes, think it is slightly.
Back to the thread topic....I have tried to separate the turbo from the manifold and failed so far.
I've cut three of the bolt heads and undone the others to loosen off the fixing plates.
Think I now need a lot of heat and some more tactful taps with a rubber mallet!
Steve Webb
27-04-18, 12:49
So I've actually done a few bits and pieces on the car in the last couple of weeks.
The Alfaholics trackday was last weekend, I've been before so decided to makle that the target for getting the car ready. Nothing major was needed after all the work last year, but I did have the UK dials to fit. At the same time as this, and as I've effectively got a spare, I decided to give the binnacle a flocking. I like the look of this in general, and the dial surround seemed a nice easy, contained place to do it. Besides if it all went wrong, I still had a spare.
It came out OK, not perfect, but acceptable and better looking than 24 year old plastic.
2961
At the same time I needed to repair the waterspray kit, it looks like time had taken its toll and I had a broken wire in the controller. Quick bit of soldering and its all back up and running.
Being on a bit of a roll, and also being able to stretch the cars legs, I noticed that my fuel pressure really is a problem, at startup, before turning the engine over, I get @2.3bar pressure, but under boost, I never see pressure up above 2.8-2.9 . Now all the parts in the system are going to be old and worn, so I've gone for a new Walbro pump and a DW fuel pressure regulator. Hopefully if they arrive in time I'll get them fitted and tested this weekend.
Good work Steve and nice bit of flocking!
I've had mine MoT'd and effectively it is back on the road. I was driving home from the MoT and was getting an ignition cut then an intake pipe popped under pressure. I've yet to find it but I did find after a quick look that the little pipe on top of the dump valve has split and entirely come away.
I may get a chance to look t it today. Apart from that, it's had two new tyres and the tracking done and driving really well (albeit bit like a 1.6L).
Had a little time to fix the small bore pipe to the dump valve today. I couldn't see anything wrong otherwise in the pipework and that would explain inaccurate boost readings.
I did however notice a little oil dripping from the intercooler - I reckon it may have popped one of the sides off.
At least I know where to get one:
http://italiancarparts-shop.de/epages/0762aba1-cfcc-4367-bae0-5e2da953efee.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/0762aba1-cfcc-4367-bae0-5e2da953efee/Products/1039
I think a Fiat Coupe could share the part too.
Bumper off time now...
Steve Webb
29-04-18, 22:57
Iginition cutting and blowing off an intercooler end cap, is your wastegate stuck and letting you make too much boost?
I've always thought getting an all alloy intercooler made up would be the way forward. The thought of plumbing in a FMIC always makes me shudder.
Yeah, I am not too interested these days in getting a bigger IC - just a standard fitment will do.
It is possible that the wastegate is stuck...or possibly the pipe that feeds the actuator was crushed/kinked. When I took it apart I found it was a bit of a mess.
I will have a search to see if there is a way I can test it with compressed air and a regulator. I doubt it is stuck as I had it moving freely on the bench when I refurbished the turbo.
Bumper off time now...
Bumper off and a little wiggle of the IC and the end cap just fell off. Seems I did a proper job :D
I compressed the seal with the help of some long camps and scrap wood and hammered the tabs back in to place (budget restoration rules adhered to).
I found after some head scratching the the cause for the over boost was simply the boost controller bleed valve. I can only assume that as I have not made any adjustments to the bleed valve that the turbo after having the bearings replaced spins more freely and is producing more pressure - seems unlikely though.
Anyway after finding a helpful mechanic at Brands Hatch on Sunday (Historic F1 day) I took the bleed valve to him and he freed off the adjuster so I could take out the spring and ball bearing. For the journey home it had a standard 0.7 BAR of boost which is to be expected.
What doesn't add up is the the boost gauge never did show me getting anywhere near 1.5 BAR which is where the ignition cut is supposed to happen. :hs: :hs: I may have a separate issue.
Before all this I was glad to get some paint on the rear quarter and spoiler (that's 7 years post 95% respray!)
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/36212.jpg
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/36213.jpg
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/36214.jpg
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/36215.jpg
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/36216.jpg
Bumper support reaffixed in with some JB weld.
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/36217.jpg
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/36218.jpg
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/36219.jpg
http://www.cloverleaf4.co.uk/images/uploads/36220.jpg
Steve Webb
29-05-18, 22:38
Looking good there Jack, where did you get the paint from? Rattle can or compressor job?
I've got a few areas that need patching up so just weighing up options.
The respray I did years ago was 2 pack and not lacquered. I think most of the off the shelf spray cans or the type that you can get made up are a matt finish that require lacquer so I wasn't too keen on that.
Someone on a mig welding forum said there are these 2 pac spray cans available that have a little canister of of the hardener/activator inside. You pull and twist a tab on the underside of the can to release it and then you have an 8 hour window to use it.
I was quite impressed with it. The nozzle has an adjustable spray pattern too.
I cut the can up after to see how it works. I got two 400ml cans delivered for £31.
The colour match is slightly off but the Meguires machine polisher might be able deal with that.
http://www.riolettcustomaerosols.co.uk
Steve Webb
30-05-18, 14:33
Cheers for the link, looks like the a good place to go, I've only got a couple of areas to touch up, under a wing mirror, by the filler cap and where the front bumper has rubbed, so can get that all prepped at some point then give the 2pack paint can a go.
Yes, you should have a better chance at a colour match with a black car.
I took it out to the Kent and East Sussex section meeting on Thursday. Pleased to say it is running very well and no funny boost behaviour after putting the ball bearing and spring back in the controller. Running at 0.9 for now. I'll just give it a quarter turn until its around 1.1.
It wasnt me but my friend and his colleague who had to change the front bumper, the left headlight, turn signal light (?) because of some small accident which was happened couple of months before. The front grille (the center mesh with the scudetto) had to be repaired and repainted as well (like the front bumper). The AC radiator damaged a bit too but my AC has not worked for a year, so it was removed and the AC pipes are closed for now. The new bumber dont have the headlight washers so I've got the piping to install the IC cooling :lol:
The left passanger side door locking mechanic (?) had to changed as well, the aftermarket central locking system couldnt move it, it was manually usable only, until now.
The engine got new oil as well, the usual Motul 6100 Synergie+ 10W40
I'll buy new winter tyres and thinking of refurbishing the winter wheels, maybe even repaint them to the gold color of the classic John Player Special F1 car, anyone knows the RAL code of it ? :smile:
Steve Webb
02-07-18, 13:20
This weekend I have been mainly trying to drill out snapped machine screws from various bits and pieces in the engine bay.
A real pain in the ass when you are dealing with M4 screws and 2mm drill bits. Must have got through 6 drill bits yesterday alone.
Steve Webb
19-08-18, 23:02
Finally got round to switching the lights back over to UK driving, meant stripping the light units down fully, but gave me the chance to fully clean and swap in a full set of new bulbs.
Wasn't exactly the way I remember doing it when I moved to france, but a couple of witness marks hopefully mean I've switched it back correctly.
Steve Webb
29-01-19, 13:58
http://forum.berlinasportivo.com/dbtgallery.php?do=gallery_image&id=54&gal=gallery&type=thumb ('http://forum.berlinasportivo.com/dbtgallery.php?do=view_image&id=54&gal=gallery')
In an effort to keep this thread going as long as is humanly possible, here is what I've done for the old girl recently. Yep bought a new place with garage, so now the Q4 has got a new home.
Dry and bright thanks to the new lighting I'm putting in. Big enough to get some work done finally.
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