Alfa33

[Xti]

Hi, guys!

As I intend to buy a Alfa 33 as daily driver, I would very much appreciate if those from you who use to have one could give me some feedbacks/advices. I don't want to ask about fuel consumption :tapedshut:, it's an Alfa...

I've heard that the 33 manufactured before'90 had serious problems with electrics and also with rust but the '93 series (III) could be among galvanized ones.

The one I'm after now is a 33 S, 1.7 16v Boxer from '93 to be a little more specific. Thanks in advance.

Greatings,
Cristian.

[AlfaJack]

My only experience of a 33 was as a passenger in a 1.7 boxer - my god what a great engine...seemed to have bags of torque :cool:

[Xti]

Hmmm...I like that taste too. :tasty:

[Q4Jan]

This looks pretty good:

http://forum.alfaclub.nl/viewtopic.php?t=43970&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

http://forum.alfaclub.nl/viewtopic.php?t=46073&highlight=

900 euro.

[Xti]

Yes but I want the hatchback version.

[Q4Jan]

Steering on the wrong side but...


http://pistonheads.co.uk/sales/1487989.htm

[Xti]

Thanks for the link, Jan. I realy appreciate your gesture, you're helpful as usual. Great 33, indeed.

The major problem is not that it's a right hand drive 33 as it is that in my country registration for this car would cost me at least another 2500 ? and I realy cannot afford it now. Beside this I'm 2200 km away from this car which means more money...

I've found in my country this 33s 16v which is not in it's best shape at all but it is already registrated. And after that I'd like to search for another 33 16v (around 500 ? and in better shape if I'm lucky) and make a good and registrated one from those two. Complicated...but it is just the way I did with my 155Q4 'cause for me here is the best possible way to have such great Alfas.

Btw, sorry for not being able to update my 155Q4 thread, it is so much to work as I barely get some free time. You know, when you don't have much money you have to spent some much more time. :doh: But I will get it done one day in this life time.

Thanks again and I will let you all know if I'll get a sister for my 155.

Cheers guys,
Cristian.

[the wombat]

Some info on 33s per the original post.

They are old enough now that they all rust. Series IIs are getting a bit harder to find, and most will have had some rust repairs done unless they live in a very rain free and mild winter climate. Series IIIs rust as well. The late ones were galvanized, but it was not great (not like todays manufacturing processes) so damp still gets into the welded seams.

Places to look for are:
- Around the fuel filler area on the rear quarter - Fairly complex to repair, and if the inner skin has gone, will need attention
- Rear sills and jacking points
- Front jacking points
- A posts
- Inner wing to bulkhead seam
- Middle seam across the floor behind the front seats
- Boot floor is boot seal gone and water getting in

And everywhere else, but the above are the major areas.

Suspension wise, fairly straight forward and easy to service and replace, so no worries there. Bushes wear but are all replacable and powerflex do urethane bushes.

Brakes wise, front discs are very small. Smaller engine models got solid brakes so best to make sure they are vented. Well maintained brakes work OK, but there are size upgrades if needed. If on the continent, try and get a very late series III with rear discs (only fitted to the P4 otherwise).

Electrics are unfairly criticized. They seem fairly robust and no worse generally than other makes of car for that era.

Engines - fairly strong. As long as regular oil changes and cambelts, should be OK.

Gearbox - if you are buying, test drive it and get the box and engine nice and warm. The shift is very rubbery, and you need to make sure you are right over for first and second. Synchros get tired, but I reckon this is mainly because of lazy gearshifts working against the rubbery mechanism. Linkages wear, particularly the one to the selector rod on the box.

There are a range of interiors. Late cars had re-designed switch gear, and alcantara Recaro seats. Top of the range 16v had these or fabric Recaros as did the P4. Handles and other fittings are cheap plastic, and sometimes crack with age.

Sport wagons are generally rarer, and P4s are the permanent 4 wheel drive version. On P4s, look out for the viscous coupling and bearings being past the end of their life, and the control electronics being unreliable, but otherwise a fairly robust system. All P4s judder a little at low speed on full steering lock as the VCU detects a difference between wheel speeds and locks into all wheel drive.

Hope this is helpful. Let me know if any specific questions. There are relatively rust free ones out there (I have 2 series IIIs with very few rust problems, one with some cosmetic issues, a series II which is good apart from the filler area, and a P4 which is very rusty).