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wrinx
19-03-09, 22:00
Providing I manage to get the sodding manifold on properly and fix the smoky exhaust I need to prime the turbo.

Anyone done this?

I was just going to remove the two scrwss holding the flexi-pipe to the turbo and crank it over.

Only trouble is the oil will go everywhere..so I also planned to fabricate a little blanking plate with a hose, to allow the oil to be decanted to a bottle or something.

Anyone got an easier method?

Also, cranking the engine over...just remove fuel pump fuse and plug leads first?

wrinx
AlfaJack
19-03-09, 22:09
Also, cranking the engine over...just remove fuel pump fuse and plug leads first?

wrinx


Not sure on priming. Was not aware it had to be done. But to stop it firing up (no fuel or spark) just disconnect the crank sensor :)
wrinx
19-03-09, 22:13
Ahaaa, that's easier...thanks.

Turbos are supposed to be primed when they're fitted because they spin so damn fast, even at idle. So starting up the engine on a dry tubby will cause it some damage...at least that's what I've read anyway!

This is done by simply disconnecting an oil pipe and cranking the engine until oil flows out.

I didn't prime the previously rebuilt turbo (didn't know about it then!) so I'm wondering if that's why it failed. After removing it the other day the play is significantly worse than when it was rebuilt and put back on, and it only covered eight miles!!!!

wrinx
AlfaJack
19-03-09, 22:29
Ah, thanks. Interesting. Turbos in principle are so simple but in detail...so damn complex!
jimnielsen
20-03-09, 04:28
why do you need to disconnect an 'oil pipe'? Can't you simply run the starter motor (with the spark/fuel disabled) until the system has oil pressure?
Evodelta
20-03-09, 06:59
It's the oil out pipe you remove, not the feed, this way you can see well, er, i'll let you work out the rest.... :smile:

I just top up the turbo inlet port with fresh oil and then bolt on the supply pipe, remove all plugs, but leave them in their leads so they can still discharge, this way the engine spins over easily, if you are cranking for any extended length of time unplug the injector loom so you don't fill the CC with petrol.

A point worthy of note is that the flange on the exit pipe is often bowed, check with straight edge and machine accordingly or it will never seal.

If you take apart a dead turbo to do a PM then failure sheets are readily available at turbo reconditioners or probably on the net.