View Full Version : Smoky when cold.
Am I burning oil...blueish smoke when cold, seems ok when warmed up but need to check.
Sounds like classic oil burning symptoms to me...engine or turbo though?
wrinx
arjunior45
31-08-08, 12:46
check your sparks first. if it's engine I believe they should be dirty. otherwise turbo?
Recently replaced the spark plugs...forget what type though, perhaps that could be a cause, but will whip one out and look.
Turbo - I think it's been blowing oil for a while so hoping that is the cause and not engine wear :smile: Still got a rebuild kit to play with...
...but I'm enjoying driving it soooo much!!!
wrinx
More news....for the past two days the car has been very smoky (more whitish now) until the temp gets near 90 and then it's fine! Idle is a bit erratic too, but I cleaned the ICV recently.
Water temp sensor was replaced a while ago but I'm thinking it might be knackered! Does anyone know the resistance values offhand, to save me searching? :smile:
Either that or the HG has gone :rolleyes:
wrinx
Found them...
Temperature - Resistance
-10 (+/-0.5) = 14.66-18.84
+20 (+/-0.5) = 3.4-4.13
+80 (+/-0.5) = 0.34-0.42
wrinx
Poo...reading FCCUK it could be the turbo :rolleyes:
wrinx
arjunior45
12-09-08, 08:49
@ wrinx :
what's the HG?
If it's the turbo, you've said "Still got a rebuild kit to play with..."! So, there will be plenty to mount it?
Nick
Sorry, HG = Head Gasket. My theory being that is was blowing water until warm, cracked head or gasket.
But, there's a video on FCCUK which looks similar to mine and had a blown turbo :(
This is the video, mine's not as bad though :smile: http://www.freepsp.co.uk/Car/Marea/Fitting/Running%20vid/blownturbo.mp4
From THIS thread (http://www.fccuk.org/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=14&Number=637256&Searchpage=8&Main=51611&Words=smoky+when+cold&topic=0&Search=true#Post637256)
wrinx
Just done a video of mine...it's not good!!
First few seconds are about a minute after starting, the rest is after about five minutes.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/th_Q4_Movie.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/?action=view¤t=Q4_Movie.flv)
wrinx
Juan AR155Q4
12-09-08, 11:53
mmm that?s a lot of smoke....
Seeing the color could be either from water as from oil, check levels of both.
I?d bet it?s oil and from turbo, didn?t you recently raised boost pressure?
I did...and I also think that's why it's died. The boost never got much about about 07.-0.9 with the PV. Now with the MBC it's up to 1.2 and has obviously been the finish for the turbo :rolleyes:This smells a bit oily too...oh well!
I'm losing a bit of water too but from the old radiator!
The car is being retired soon for some extra work so I'll add a turbo recon to the list!!!
wrinx
:eek: That is a lot!! Wasn't expecting it to be anything like that!
Turbo rebuild time then :cool::cool:
Now also got smoke coming from the join between the turbo and downpipe...oil leaking oil and burning off.
Think it's pretty dead :rolleyes:
wrinx
take some pictures when rebuilding turbo :D
Will do....I've got a lot of restoration work to do and will be taking more than a few pictures :rolleyes: :smile:
wrinx
Would all this oil near the intercooler connection be linked to the oil blowing turbo....or something extra?
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/0-0010.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/0-0012.jpg
...also replacing the radiator so only need to strip the front end once!!!
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/0-0014.jpg
wrinx
cuore_sportivo_155
22-09-08, 13:30
probably from the turbo, the airflow slows down a bit in the intercooler, and the oil vapours condensate again aswell...
Removing and flushing through the whole inlet might be a good idea now :(
Yup, that's what I was thinking too :( Read on FCCUK about a guy with a blown turbo who suffered from smoke after replacing it, because of the residual oil :rolleyes:
How do you clean an IC?
:sigh:
wrinx
Forgot to ask...does anyone know a supplier for the plastic trunking which covers the wiring? A lot of mine near the radiator/fan is old and falling apart?
Found this stuff... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&viewitem=&item=270278586477
wrinx
Petrol is quite a good cleaner. Take the intercooler off, fill with petrol, swish around, pour out old petrol - repeat until it comes out the same colour as it went in.
Forgot to ask...does anyone know a supplier for the plastic trunking which covers the wiring? A lot of mine near the radiator/fan is old and falling apart?
Found this stuff... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&viewitem=&item=270278586477
wrinx
I bought some at Bromley Pageant - might have the guys card, will check later :)
How do you clean an IC?
I also used petrol. At the same time you will check for any leaks in the IC (petrol is very very very thin (don't know the axact word)) which you would not feel while blowing the air into IC.
I also used petrol. At the same time you will check for any leaks in the IC (petrol is very very very thin (don't know the axact word)) which you would not feel while blowing the air into IC.
That is the exact word :smile:
Thanks guys, will whip the IC+piping out and give them a dowsing!
wrinx
cuore_sportivo_155
22-09-08, 19:05
i'd use brake cleaner iso petrol, slightly less flammable :) or the wife's dishwasher...
Forgot to ask...does anyone know a supplier for the plastic trunking which covers the wiring? A lot of mine near the radiator/fan is old and falling apart?
Found this stuff... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&viewitem=&item=270278586477
wrinx
This is the place:
jimnielsen
22-09-08, 21:44
Wrinx, are you going to use an "original" style radiator - or go for something in aluminum?
any disassembly pics?
jim.
I was just going to stick a "normal" radiator in there, got a price of just under ?120 delivered, which I think is great! :smile:
Will post a few pics when I get some more work done...
wrinx
This is the place:
Ahaaa, thanks Jack, this is their website:
http://www.wrightsautosupplies.com
..and the article in question, about halfway down:
http://www.wrightsautosupplies.com/page.php?currentpageref=773
wrinx
A few pictures of the progress so far....ok, a lot more than a few, you may want to put the kettle on....!
Grill out
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/04.jpg
Bumper off
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/08.jpg
Wiring etc out of the way
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/12.jpg
Intercooler shroud with the little spray
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/14.jpg
Oil!
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/15.jpg
More oil! Intercooler pipe
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/18.jpg
Not so shiny
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/19.jpg
MORE oil!
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/20.jpg
Intercooler off
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/21.jpg
Intercooler pipe not sealing well either, not surprising there is oil everywhere
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/22.jpg
This is getting silly now
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/23.jpg
Oil in the engine bay
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/24.jpg
Disconnected the aircon...there was nothing in it!
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/31.jpg
Radiator loose, ready for removal
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/33.jpg
The worst I've ever seen!
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/36.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/37.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/38.jpg
Read on......
After a light rubbing
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/39.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/40.jpg
Someone's idea of a good job
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/46.jpg
Removed the support panel too, for cleaning and painting
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/47.jpg
Cleaning the tubes
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/51.jpg
Lots more room to get at the tubby now
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/41.jpg
The next job, removing the turbo
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/44.jpg
The car now, turbo is held on with one bolt...for tomorrow!
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/52.jpg
The garage...Alfabits everywhere!
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/49.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/50.jpg
I need to go and buy a blast cabinet and lots of paint!!! Planning to refurbish and paint everything that's come off and perhaps the chassis legs while I'm there! :rolleyes: :eek:
What fun....
wrinx
If you want, I can blast anything for you. Postage might be on the expensive side though!
Is there any oil left in your sump??? ;)
After checking out the price of cabinets I might take you up on that! :lol:
Think I'll just get some rust preventer and hammerite the support panel :smile:
Least I found out where the oil was going...! :lol:
wrinx
Think I'll just get some rust preventer
Might be too late:eek::tongue2:
:fp:
Got some Hammerite jelly stuff...seems to be working so far.
Been busy again tonight, stripping the tubby (yes MORE pictures!):
Underneath the turbo..oil!
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/55.jpg
Removed...
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/58.jpg
Blowing exh-manifold gasket :rolleyes:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/59.jpg
The beasty
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/60.jpg
The oil in close up...
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/62.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/63.jpg
Turbo strip down....
Removed oil pipe
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/65.jpg
Remove wastegate actuator
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/66.jpg
Undo bolts and remove cover
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/67.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/68.jpg
Remove exhaust elbow...more oil!
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/69.jpg
Undo bolts on other side and remove cover...to reveal MORE oil!
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/72.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/70.jpg
Remove shaft and firmly clamp in vice (there's a flat on the triangular centre), undo the splined nut using an 11mm socket (not six sided)
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/73.jpg
Remove turbine
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/74.jpg
...and the bit underneath, this shows the underside
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/75.jpg
Remove the bearing
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/78.jpg
Remove circlip
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/79.jpg
Lift off the body
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/80.jpg
Yeewwww, guess this is contaminated and burnt oil!
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/81.jpg
What's left
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/83.jpg
One brass bearing will come out and you'll have to remove another circlip to allow the second bearing to drop out
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/85.jpg
The turbo in bits
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/86.jpg
Ohhh, how did they get in there? :redface::cool:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/90.jpg
I did a phone video of the side play in the impellor shaft but it's disappeared. There was roughly 2mm of sideways movement! Thankfully no float on the shaft but I'll replace the bearing anyway.
The brass bearing with visible scoring was about 0.5mm bigger internally than the new replacements, the other is about 0.2mm...I guess that's where the movement came from!
If I'm posting too many pictures please say so...
wrinx
One question...there are some spring retainers on the ends of the shaft, how do I get them into the casing when reassembling?
wrinx
Cool, we dont often get photos of tubby rebuilds, more photos the better please :D
Sounds like its royally buggered though!
Yup, I have a rebuild kit kicking around so will throw it back together and see what happens :lol:
wrinx
Juan AR155Q4
26-09-08, 01:05
The shaft is ok? No marks on it?
Seems to be ok, there's some light wear marks but as it runs inside the softer (phosphor bronze?) bearings there shouldn't be a problem.
I will check the measurements, but without a spec sheet I won't know if it's within tolerance anyway :rolleyes:
wrinx
Yup, I have a rebuild kit kicking around so will throw it back together and see what happens :lol:
I have this kit also, but my turbo is beyond repair when it broke down.
The axle between the both turbines is broken :eek: Also some blades on the turbine on the exhaust side are burned away and some broke when it suddely came to an hold from way to many RPM's till standstil :eek:
Keep those pictures coming :smile: I am also curious for the results after youre done Wrinx.
Greetings,
Marc
cuore_sportivo_155
26-09-08, 08:38
no wonder your jtd was faster than the q4 :)
Will you use 360 degree bearings now?It will help the turbo to last longer:)
How does a 360 degree bearing differ from a normal bearing?
jimnielsen
26-09-08, 11:24
great pictures wrinx - umm.. could you weigh the fan and shroud for me if they are still off the car?
jimn~
.. that radiator is the worst I have ever seen - can believe it was on a functioning car!
The axle between the both turbines is broken :eek: Also some blades on the turbine on the exhaust side are burned away and some broke when it suddely came to an hold from way to many RPM's till standstil :eek:
Ouch...! :eek::doh:
wrinx
Will you use 360 degree bearings now?It will help the turbo to last longer:)
How does a 360 degree bearing differ from a normal bearing?
Not bothering with a 360 bearing as I want to upgrade the turbo eventually, so just want it working for now :smile:
Jack, the bearing can be seen below, it has 90degrees cut out to allow for oil flow I think. So a 360 will be complete...but still allows the oil to flow!
The 270 bearing has three small raised areas, equidistant on the bearing, which act as bearing surfaces....I wonder if the 360 has a bearing ring all the way around, or more bearing surfaces??? nyway, they are reckoned to be a "worth doing" modification.
wrinx
Turbo is back together...
Back in the vice, replacing the split ring
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/101.jpg
Replacing one bearing and new circlip
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/102.jpg
Second bearing and circlip
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/103.jpg
Replaced on the shaft and pressed down to click over the spring clip
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/104.jpg
Bit of lube and new sealing ring, before placing the new 270 bearing
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/105.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/106.jpg
Placing the impellor base (or whatever it's called!), another gentle push to go over the split ring
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/107.jpg
Replacing the impellor, ensuring the alignment marks are in the right place and placing new gasket (around the outside circumference)
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/108.jpg
Bolting the housing down
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/109.jpg
Bolting the other end back on
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/110.jpg
The finished article
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/111.jpg
I'm not that convinced it will last much longer. There's still some sideways play in the shaft so it must have worn more than I thought :(
Anyway...it was worth a go! :smile:
wrinx
cuore_sportivo_155
29-09-08, 11:03
there's always some sideways play in them, even new... the play needs to be replaced by an oilfilm while the turbo is spinning...
EDIT: by sideways i presume you mean radial?
I was thinking the same last night...needs ot be some room for oil!
I can move the turbine and shaft a fraction, on it's axis....I think that means radially???
There is no forward and backward movement, which is trying to push the shaft through it's bearings, pressing against the 270 thrust bearing....does that make sense?
wrinx
cuore_sportivo_155
29-09-08, 17:28
in the direction of the axis there shouldn't be movement (think that's axial play :) ), and away from the axis is radial
cuore_sportivo_155
29-09-08, 17:31
did you thoroughly check the oil feed and return to see if they aren't gunked up aswell? especially the return is critical... also, the swarf metal is in your oil and filter, and ofcourse on the bottom of the oil pan...
So the play sounds normal then...?
Oil pipes are fine and I will be doing an oil and filter change anyway.
wrinx
Looks like you know what you are doing, but, as far as I know, the job is useless without having the whole set being re-balanced (on a balancing bench with as close to normal working rpm (of turbo) as possible). This is what cost money in a turbo renewal but this procedure is vital for the turbo to last long (besides that the reassembly job must be done in a very clean environment).
However, the whole process is interesting
Good luck on this
"Vertical" play is ok, but there should not be any axial play (longitudinally the shaft/axis)
Yeah, I'm aware the turbo should be put on a balancing rig to check....but, if all the bits are put back how they came off (marking as you go) then it should, in theory, be ok....ish....kinda....hopefully!
Seriously, I read a thread (possibly on FCCUK) from a guy who just used one of these kits and said he had no problems....as for the "very clean environment", my garage cannot be described as clean so we'll have to see :lol:
wrinx
in the direction of the axis there shouldn't be movement (think that's axial play :) ), and away from the axis is radial
"Vertical" play is ok, but there should not be any axial play (longitudinally the shaft/axis)
I think we're on the same lines....in the picture below, if I hold the brass nut on the end of the shaft I can move it left, right, forwards or back...by about 0.5mm all round. However, there is no up and down movement at all.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/108.jpg
wrinx
...could you weigh the fan and shroud for me if they are still off the car?
No problem....these are not 100% accurate as our scales didn't like such small amounts :rolleyes:
Fan - 3kg
Shroud - <2kg
The whole lot was 4.8kg.
wrinx
I think we're on the same lines....in the picture below, if I hold the brass nut on the end of the shaft I can move it left, right, forwards or back...by about 0.5mm all round. However, there is no up and down movement at all.
Yes, that's what I meant, it's good then.
Even my brand new ball bearing has a little of that non-axial play
Excellent...thanks for confirming :smile:
wrinx
Putting the turbo wastegate actuator on tonight and I noticed that the arm has some play at the wastegate end....so I turned the turbine housing to adjust it.
If the play was there before I dismantled it would the wastegate have been slightly open all the time or would the exhaust gases hold it shut?
wrinx
I don't know the answer to your question, but what you are adjusting is the 'base boost'. I believe some chips have different base boost settings and it needs setting up before you put the turbo back on. Is it .6bar on your car? It needs to be set with a pressure guage on the WGA so that is just starting to open the WG at whatever your base boost setting is.
Not sure I explained it very well....I haven't adjusted the tension, merely set the WG arm so it doesn't allow the WG to rattle about.
wrinx
By turning the housing you will have adjusted it and by not testing it you will not know what your base boost is set at.
Mmm, more explanation needed for me please...why would turning the housing have adjusted the BB?
wrinx
By putting more or less tension on the WGA you are altering the base boost.
I haven't adjusted the tension///
By putting more or less tension on the WGA...
:confused::tasty:
I'm still not explaining it very well....the end of the arm (the hole) was worn, allowing the WG to move about, without the WGA arm moving. So, I've moved the housing just enough to take up the wear and hence the movement in the WGA arm.
The WG doesn't rattle now but I made sure it has the tiniest bit of movement to ensure there wasn't any extra tension placed on the WGA.
Does all that waffle make sense?
So, as far as I'm concerned I haven't adjusted the tension...hopefully!
wrinx
AFAIUI, as you have taken up a tiny amount of slack out of the rod, the movement of the arm from the WGA will be the same at the WGA end but the movement at the WG end will happen sooner as there is less slack - this will mean your base boost will drop slightly as the WG is opening sooner as the rod is being pushed at the same rate as before but its now straight on to the WG instead of overcoming the slack and then pushing on the WG.
I will be surprised if that makes sense to anyone. Not ever sure I understand it now :tapedshut::tapedshut:
I know what you mean Jack as I had exactly the same thought after I'd typed my previous post...but the difference will be a mere fraction of a second.
The other way of looking at it is that it could be back where it should have been in the first place (presuming the wear is from that side of course!!!
At the end of the day it will require the same amount of air pressure to move the WG and now hopefully the WG isn't flapping about losing pressure...unless the exhaust gases held it in place as per my original question :smile:
I could have got this all horribly wrong though... :shock:
wrinx
Yeah I expect the difference will be so tiny it will never be noticed.
As for the wastegae flapping around, I am pretty sure it is held shut by the exhaust pressure.
Yes I agree with what you have done and your explanation now. I didn't know whether you knew if this is how you adjusted the BB or if you had gone too far or not - that was my reason for posting, It's been a long week and I was practically nodding off so kept it short!
The earlier versions of this engine had adjustable WGA rods, but were discontinued from the Evo 2 onwards.
Still, the same warning applies, If you are rebuilding a turbo you would set it correctly as matter of course, it is akin to putting back on your soiled Y fronts after cleaning yourself off from accidentally following through. :smile:
Nice mental image....messy :smile:
wrinx
Rebuilding the car has started....bought some of the convoluted pipe Jack posted about, very good :smile:
Turbo and manifold are on...intercooler and piping tomorrow.
Need to wait for a blasting gun to arrive in the post before anything else can be done :rolleyes:
wrinx
Still waiting for the sodding blasting gun :cry:
So just tinkering at the moment...polished the fan cover (sad!) :rolleyes: and made some more plastic grommet things for the bumper (desperate!) :rolleyes::rolleyes: and cleaned out the expansion tank :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes: and opened up the bumper holes in the back :eek:
wrinx
Bugger....bugger....BUGGER! Still got a smoky turbo.
My best hope is that the smoke is residue from before...but I doubt it :(
Anyway, car is back together and off to have some welding done tomorrow :rolleyes:
wrinx
What else could cause lots of white smoke?
wrinx
Water leak, maybe you have a faulty head gasket this will produce a passage for the antifreeze to pass from the capillaries into the combustion chamber or MAYBE a cracked head ...but thats just the worst case scenario.
Water leak, maybe you have a faulty head gasket this will produce a passage for the antifreeze to pass from the capillaries into the combustion chamber or MAYBE a cracked head ...but thats just the worst case scenario.
Damn, you've posted exactly what my other thought is :( But if water was getting in wouldn't it be running a bit roughly? There's a lot of smoke...
How do these engines cope with overheating? When my fan wasn't working I think it went to about 110degress, surely that wouldn't have caused a problem?
wrinx
Mines been at about 120c before and has lived on...I really think its residue, doesnt take much oil to make a lot of smoke... ;)
Hopefully so...it seemed to take a little longer to get smoky. I cleaned all the engine pipes out but the exhaust will still have traces of oil.
Fingers crossed then.... :cool:
Just dropped it off for welding, full set of tyres (ouch!!!) and possible MOT :cool:
wrinx
cuore_sportivo_155
27-10-08, 13:06
exhaust will have more than traces of oil... when we've had cars with similar problems in before, every exhaust box got replaced aswell. If not it'll smoke for a loooooong time.
cuore_sportivo_155
27-10-08, 13:07
you could try heating the exhaust in an aeffort to evapourate the oil quicker... or pour degreaser through them...
Juan AR155Q4
27-10-08, 18:11
Check water level.
Check spark plugs and look for some oil on them.
exhaust will have more than traces of oil... when we've had cars with similar problems in before, every exhaust box got replaced aswell. If not it'll smoke for a loooooong time.
Possible good news then...I'm hoping for a long run this weekend if I can get the car legal before then...that should help clear it out!
wrinx
Check water level.
Check spark plugs and look for some oil on them.
Will do...water always dropped a little because I had a leak :rolleyes: Hopefully fixed with the new radiator and hose clips :smile:
wrinx
Juan AR155Q4
30-10-08, 13:22
And any sign of oil in the sparks plugs?
Don't know yet.
The car is now back in my garage after a bit of welding. The long run this weekend will not be happening as it's throwing large amounts of smoke out again...definite oily smell and it looks like oil is coming from the same joint of the turbo to the exhaust pipe :(
Left shows oil on wastegate and right is the lower bolt, also showing oil.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g118/wrinx/Q4/Turbo/0-0027aMedium.jpg
Will have a look over the next few days and then report back :)
wrinx
Not got around to having a look yet (decorating!), but bought a second-hand turbo anyway...I reckon the slight wear observed on the shaft is the reason.
Found this site interesting: http://www.turborepair.com/
wrinx
Steve Webb
15-11-08, 08:02
Wrinx, when is the smoke visible out the back? Just when its cold/overrun etc...
Just asking as my old turbo only kicked oil smoke out on the overrun and that was because of knackered oil seals in there.
It's kicking loads out when idling, after about three minutes...also when driving I'm leaving a smokescreen.
There oil visible on the turbo casing at the bottom (as the picture above, but worse now).
I'll stick the "new" turbo on when fitting the SS manifold and then rip the old one apart.
Still got the horrible feeling there's something more sinister at fault as the turbo went very quickly :?
wrinx
Juan ALZAGA
17-11-08, 11:57
Hi, can it be (sorry for bad news) piston rings that are wearing out...hence letting oil pass to the combustion chamber...
Yes, that's my next worry, as it happened so suddenly it could be a cracked ring :(
Engine runs fine...would there be other clues? Guess a compression test will show it up?
But, as there is oil leaking from the turbo and no previous sign of oil on the head or in the exhaust manifold I'm still thinking it's the turbo.
wrinx
Juan AR155Q4
17-11-08, 20:13
Check sparks plugs for oil, that?ll give you a clue of were the oil is coming from.
Yup, keep meaning to do that....not worked on the car for two weeks now :(
wrinx
Not getting a good feeling about this....been chatting to an old mechanic friend (JB for those who remember him), showed him the video and his first thought was head gasket.
Advance planning time again....good time for a Spesso!
wrinx
good time for a Spesso!
wrinx
:smoke:
Mr JimmyBob still about is he :cool:
I would be surprised if it was the HG but then the "ooped" boost might have disturbed it.
Yup, running 1.2 (plus spikes!) when it's not used to it might have killed it....or I could just be worrying to much ;)
wrinx
Can you do that test to the water to tell if its contaminated?
I guess there is no sludge under the oil cap...
No sign of mayo....I really need to just get stuck in and find out what's happening :lol:
Planned for this weekend!
wrinx
Checking youtube it looks like mine isn't that bad!!!
EIpG4i6x4rY
wrinx
If it hangs around it's smoke from burning oil (and you will smell it) If it vanishes before your eyes it is steam. You need to find out which it is........
My emissions smell....and linger :redface:
I'm pretty sure it's oil...can see the damn stuff dripping out. From reading elsewhere it looks like the seals have gone.
wrinx
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